92 Dodge RAM 250 fusable link blows

From : lee

Q: drum. success! i am know ready to tackle any rear brake job that comes my way. were you able to determine what it was hung up on before re-assembling wire-brush off the rust on the hub and use a light coat of anti-sieze around it. this will make removal next time a bit easier. what kept the drums from coming off was the pressure of the brake shoes against the drum. once i turned the adjuster the wrong way i was never really able to fully turn the adjuster the opposite direction to retract the brake shoes. regards bill one needs two screwdrivers or similar implements to back them off. once you have the drum off you can see how the adjuster is held so that it can only turn one way. when trying to back them off one must push that little lever away from the adjuster and then turned with another tool. matt .

Replies:

From : lee

side and kind of need to know if this is something that can be done in my garage vs the shop. thanks!!!! guy sure. im assuming this is a 4x4 otherwise you wouldnt be asking as a 2wd uses a pair of servicable roller bearings. with the truck still on the ground pop off the center cap remove the cotter pin then remove the big axle nut and washer. then raise the wheels both of them so you can operate the steering remove the wheel remove the brake caliper two 3/8 allen-head bolts hold it on - dont let the caliper hang by the brake hose - use a bungee cord or some wire and tie it up then remove the rotor. if you have 4-wheel abs youll have to disconnect the abs wire from the connector up on the inner fender gray plastic connector and un-do the clips that hold the wire all the way down to the hub. next back off the three 14mm 12-point bolts from the back side of the steering knuckle. back them off about 1/4 or so. then smack them really hard with a hammer may want to turn the wheels to get a better angle on them until they bottom out. if necessary back them off some more and repeat the process until the bearing is loose. what youre doing is using them to press the hub/bearing out of the knuckle. the 1/2-tons are notorious for siezing in place as they have a large tapered piece that fits into the knuckle and this rusts up. since youre replacing the bearing do what you need to do to get it off. once the bearing is loose remove the three bolts all the way pull the hearing off of the axle and replace it with the new one. look on the old one and wherever you see rust lightly coat the new one with anti-sieze give a light coat on the axle splines as well. everything else goes back on the way it came off. the three 12-point bolts torque to 125ft.lbs. - the axle nut torques to 175ft.lbs. then if necessary tightened further until you can insert the cotter pin use a new one. the caliper slide pins torque to 38ft.lbs. wheel lug nuts torque to 95ft.lbs. .

From : joseph myers

transurgeon wrote yea it sounds like your new truck went for a swim before you bought it. the actual seats were probably replaces due to water damage along with the carpet. you might want to lift the carpet and look for damage on the floor boards as well. weeeelllll.... that settles it then.... if t-bone sez it went for a swim then by god that must be what happened..... even though there is no other evidence to that fact there can be no other alternative since t-bone said its so! face it gary you are screwed! lmfao!!! is it both seats or only one if its only one then percentages come into play here and we all know about the boner and the % sign............... it is both front and both back seats. gary .