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89 d-50 2.6 doesn't like hills

From : 222

Q: on wed 28 dec 2005 204851 gmt tom lawrence tnloaswpraemnmcien5g@earthlink.net wrote my abs light and branke stay on. they will not go off. i cannot find the problem. please help. hows the speedometer behave particularly below 20mph if its also erratic the most likely cause is a failed rear wheel speed sensor. its on top of the rear differential and comes out with a single bolt. it will cost under $40 for a new sensor and should take about 5 minutes to change out. if the speedo. isnt erratic its still a posibility that the rwss is bad/performing poorly. it could also be a failed front wheel sensor low brake fluid air in the abs pump an abs pump/controller failure etc. all this is assuming you have 4-wheel abs. unfortunately the abs system is proprietary and most shops dont have the equipment to diagnose it directly anyway. thats something only a dealer can do. on a 98 its possible to disconnect two of the three wheel speed sensors at a time and use the speedometer to see if theyre good. ive done this before. the rear sensor disconnects on top of the rear differential. the front sensors disconnect at a gray connector on top of each front inner fender panel follow the wire next to the brake lines coming off the front calipers. drive the truck with one sensor at a time hooked up. if one of them fails to allow the speedometer to register youve found the bad sensor. mine did the same thing on my 97 . it was low brake fluid in the reservoir caused from a leaking brake line. your fluid will also go low as your brake linings wear. .

Replies:

From : budd cochran

bg wrote put an amp meter in series with the battery while the vehicle is not running. if it shows current draw then the battery is being discharged. unplug fuses flip switches try disconnecting wire harnesses etc to see where the current is going. i fought a problem for weeks like this on a 75 dodge mini motorhome. i used this technique and found a relay shorted for the courtesy light on the ignition key. nick .

From : budd cochran

gee do ya think things might have changed in 11 years they have. my 05 has been trouble free with the exception of a drone at 65mph that was fixed. was that the loosen the engine and tranny mounts drive it then re-tighten fix yup that was the one. found it buried on the tdr. gotta do it at idle about 100 feet each way leave it in neutral and torque to specs. dealer had already done all the stuff recommended by dc such as balancing drive shafts. went so far as swapping shafts out of new truck with no drone. no joy. they never heard of the loosen deal but now have used it on a couple of trucks and it cured the problem. of course it doesnt get it every time. ymmv i remember seeing it used on a couple of motorcycles years ago. roy .

From : 222

the scariest tow i ever made was towing a 68 amc fullsize wagon engine trouble with a 54 chevy for my older brother. 70 series radial tires on the wagon a short tow bar and 6.70 x 15 bias-ply tires on the chevy. at the first turn a 5 mph street corner the wagon tried to push the chevy sideways. and that was to be the norm for the 60 mile haul back home on all but the slightest curves. yes the steering wheel was free to turn in the wagon. budd big al wrote what causes a trailer to fishtail i was towing a trailer with 2 ric of firewood home the other day and i couldnt go above 55 miles per hour the trailer was weaving back and forth so much... i have a dakota quad cab 4.7 4wd 3.55 axle 2001 and a 5x10 flatbed trailer with 13 tires. what did i do wrong j. had this happen to me in the 60s pulling a car trailer. about the scariest ride i ever had. the trailer was making s skid marks and i about lost it more than once. in my case it was a loose front end in the truck. i replaced all the bad parts and had the front end aligned. never a problem after that. when it happened we tried to add weight to the truck by moving the car forward on the trailer then we unloaded the car and turned it around and tied it as far back as we could. must have mover that car 20 times nothing helped. the only way to stop the weaving was to stand on the gas. going down hills was murder. about 10 years ago i saw this happen to a guy in a wagoneer pulling a camping trailer. he stopped and i offered to pull it with my truck. hooked it up and it was a solid as if it was on railroad tracks. i pulled it about 40 miles and then we hit i-10 and went different directions. al .

From : 222

put an amp meter in series with the battery while the vehicle is not running. if it shows current draw then the battery is being discharged. unplug fuses flip switches try disconnecting wire harnesses etc to see where the current is going. .

From : budd cochran

replaced the resistor block and blower motor so far it has been working fine. the blower motor was hard to turn so i suspect that the grease in the bearings had dried up causing the motor to pull more amps and blow the fuse in the resistor block. hope this helps someone out. .

From : 222

222 wrote thanks for your reply. timing was set by a trusted proffesional.what else vacuum leaks manifold to head carb to manifold or incorrect carb jetting the same carb may fit different engines and use different jets. if bought as a rebuilt carb it might not be jetted right. if those are ok then double check the timing. sorry but your mechnaic is a human and can make musteaks . . .messtake....errors. ; budd .

From : budd cochran

nothing. my mechanic found an old tsb that said to r & r the steering wheel and all attaching hardware and re-torque to specs. this was done but did not help. any other ideas inspect the intermediate shaft shaft that runs from the steering box or rack to the base of the column. the u-joints in that shaft can wear out causing slop and the clunking that youre feeling. .