89 Dakota -- runs like crap overnight
From : Annonymous
Q: on 13 dec 2006 134229 -0800 craig c. mcraigchr@gmail.com wrote dj wrote to sludge. would it mess up the fluid dynamics of the pump if that opening were enlarged i put a high volume pump on a ford 351c one time. boy did i regret that! everytime i started the engine it blew 1/2 quart of oil out of the real seal. real pain in the ass cleaning that driveway everyday. stick to a standard pump. craig c. i assume you initially may have chosen the high volume pump because of the possibility of oil starvation to the back of the engine under a severe load. i have read of the exposure in the ford 335 series v8s and have studied some mods that run an additional oil supply line outside the engine to the back of the block or something like that i think it was discovered by dirt track racers using the engine hard. i am currently building a 400 for a 79 f-250 that is still in parts but will be assembled in 2-3 weeks so any additional detail of your oiling issue with the engine you could share would be greatly appreciated. like if all the rest of the oiling system was stock or had mods been put on did you have any problem with the distributor gear stripping-prematurely wearing out due the extra pressure from the higher volume pump etc etc. since this is ot it would probably be appropriate to communicate via email only from now on in this thread. thanks in advance for any info you can add. regards joe. .
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From : beekeep
what are the symptoms of a wheel bearing going bad i have a groaning noise coming from the rear of the truck after stopping for the first time following highway driving. i drive about 30 miles to work on the highway with no noise at all. after i stop at a light on the off ramp while pulling away from a dead stop i hear a creaking or groaning for about 100 feet. then it goes away as long as im doing city driving. any ideas thanks mark .
From : Annonymous
on 14 dec 2006 081530 -0800 craig c. mcraigchr@gmail.com wrote lugnut wrote i generally lurk and do not post in the dodge group but since you brought up the ford 351 engine with which i have at least a passing interest and knowledge of i will take a shot at getting flamed here. are you kidding im just happy were not talking about god for a change. your problem was not the hv pump. it was a bad rear seal which was probably a result of excessive wear of the rear main which in turn was probably a result of the inadequate oiling of the rear main in the 335 series ford engines. i have seen this a number of times during overhaul. first this was 20 years ago so i will try with the best of my ability to remember all of the facts. i put the high volume pump on when i rebuilt the engine. i replaced all of the seals bearings etc. so im reasonably certain that the real seal was not bad. i put the high volume pump in not because i had any solid logical reason. since i put in a slightly above factory spec cam and an holly 4 barrel carb and edelbrock intake to replace the factory 2 barrel carb and intake. i figured ... hey im rebuilding this thing with spicier parts why not a high volume pump so thats what i did. result was as i originally stated oil blowing out of the rear seal. i talked to some mechanics that were friends of the family wayne calvert builds racing engines in denton tx and his brother that has a shop next to his that does shade tree work. it was suggested that i use from what i recall some type of rope style seal to prevent it. i never go that far ... i wrecked it and never worked on it again. craig c. didnt mean to step on any toes but i have seen to many of them built with the hv pump to help the oil system with reasonable success. the original rope type seal was a pos and was eventually replaced by a 2 piece metal seal with a lip to better control the oil. this is probably what was mentioned to you as a fix way back then. another trick as another poster indicated and is frequently used to help the rear main in them is to tee off the oil pressure sending unit port beside the filter and install a feed hose to the oil pressure port on the top rear of the block. the port from here goes straight to the #5 main. that way the engine gets oil from both ends. the hv - not hp - pump can greatly reduce the pressurization time this way and help prevent oil starvation of the rear main and cam bearings which was/is a problem on the 335 series engines. and again it is not pressure you are looking for - it is greater volume to more quickly fill the system. another part of the equation for a street engine is to use a 10w30 oil here in the se which is plenty adequate instead of the factory recommended 10w40 of the 70s. in cold climates an even lighter oil would be better. current 10w30 oil is far superior to any 1970s 10w40 oil for lubrication and will flow much more quickly which is at least as important as the pressure. we tried the increased pressure and a few other items from the school of hard knocks text book on the dirt track cars in the 70s and scrapped a few engine before we started to sort out the 335 series oiling problems. if you boost the pressure you may be shooting yourself in the foot. regards lugnut .
From : abby normal
result was as i originally stated oil blowing out of the rear seal. i talked to some mechanics that were friends of the family wayne calvert builds racing engines in denton tx and his brother that has a shop next to his that does shade tree work. it was suggested that i use from what i recall some type of rope style seal to prevent it. i never go that far ... i wrecked it and never worked on it again. craig c. . 222 326439 1166114905.338240.208970@16g2000cwy.googlegroups.com hello james well the good is that the lady just picked up a jeep -- and in the recent past at the jeep ng there was a discussion about chattering fuel pump relays. i see you talk about the coil buzzing havent heard that since i was in gramps antique engine shop but your pasted posting talks about relays -- so im going for the latter. i imagine the info applies since were under the d-c banner. check it out http//groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys/browsethread/thread/aaf26350d25ade2a also james are you saying that the fuel pump doesnt kick on for the 1-second or so priming when you first turn the key -- so it doesnt kick on at all until the 10-15 min period has elapsed and the relay chatter begins typically you can hear it with the door open for a brief on-off cycle when you first turn the key from off to on. i think this info will help greatly for myself and others grinding this one up. jon jamesholland7@msn.com wrote hi all i have a 95 ram 2500 and it wont always start if it sits too long. i have to turn the key to the on position and wait 10-15 minutes sometimes longer before i hear chatter coming from the ignition coil. ive change that but still no success. new batter new starter. i have an auto starter on it and its about 2 years old. no problems with that unit and it still works. i heard that may be the problem but i dont see how. there was a former posting explaining the exact problem i have but it never showed the answer. does anyone have any ideas on how to resolve this it sounds common. heres the old thread... my problem started as a nuisance and progressively worsened into a disabled vehicle. i have a 1994 dodge b2500 ram van 3.9 l mpfi with 88k. a few months ago it would occasionally crank excessively and finally fire up. i found this got worse and more frequent. when cold the fuel would take some time to prime usually about 10 - 20 seconds. once hot the motor would start on the first crank and continue to fire up through out the day. the problem only occurred when the engine was cold. i have since replaced the spark plugs wires air cleaner pcv valve breather distributor cap and rotor and finally the fuel pump. i also tested the operation of the map crankshaft postion sensor camshaft position sensor throttle position sensor and the idle air control. this did not fix the problem. it may have created a new one. now it takes approximately 2- 10 minutes to prime the fuel. a pressure tester shows 40 psi at the fuel rail once primed. now however the autoshutdown and the fuel pump relays chatter for several minutes. they toggle on and off very quickly - several times per second. while this happens the fuel pressure climbs and when it reaches 40 psi the relays stop clicking and the ignition is enabled. once the relays stop making noise the motor turns right over and fires up easily. i tried to ground the relay pcm ground wire dk blue with yellow stripe directly to negative battery terminal. this forced the fuel pump on but would not allow me to start the engine. i assume this is because although i had fuel pressure i had no spark. it would not fire until the jumper was disconnected and the relays were allowed to continue chattering until they stopped. the diagnostics show a code 12 - pcm voltage and a 45 overdrive solenoid. i finally took it to the dealer who spent a few minute with it but once the tech realized i had installed an aftermarket alarm and remote starter he would not investigate any further. i realize the wiring modifications could cause the intermittent power failure but theyre not new - theyve been working fine for four years. and if it was the cause why would it only occur when the engine is cold i have checked the wiring connections and all appear ok. the dealer said i would have to disconnect the systems before tehy will analyze any further. i am willing to do this but in the meantime it now stalls ive been able to live with the starting issue. it only takes a few extra minutes to prime the pump. since this problem only occurs after teh van sits for a long period of time ive spent weeks trying to troubleshoot it! once the motor is warm it starts fine. but nowperhaps i screwed up something while troubleshooting the engine wont accelerate smoothly past idle speed. if i give it a little gas it sputters rather violently and then stalls. if
From : dj
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