86ish D150 225 goes 1/2 a block then dies, won`t restart until cold

From : rachel easson

Q: hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees set curb idle to 825-875 about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5 set fast idle to 1700 -- one gas line was changed last fall when it passed a quebec safety so since the brakes power steering new tires excellent body lights etc. all done it is almost like new -- will swap motor with my other d150 but need to get it running -- and stay running first -- it is supposed to be my daily driver and i am still driving my brothers spare car any ideas will be greatly appreciated rach .

Replies:

From : nosey

tbone wrote hey nosey gfy! - .

From : tbone

lol -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving tbone wrote hey nosey gfy! - .

From : bigironram

hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees set curb idle to 825-875 about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5 set fast idle to 1700 -- one gas line was changed last fall when it passed a quebec safety so since the brakes power steering new tires excellent body lights etc. all done it is almost like new -- will swap motor with my other d150 but need to get it running -- and stay running first -- it is supposed to be my daily driver and i am still driving my brothers spare car any ideas will be greatly appreciated rach it wont restart because it doesnt have gas or spark which is it robert .

From : bigironram

it wont restart because it doesnt have gas or spark which is it robert i dont know -- but i just thought -- ill take a wire off the coil tomorrow night -- had a few beers now and dot feel like doing it now unless i cant sleep later -- and see if it sparks i think its fuel related because when it stalls there is no gas smell at all -- but maybe this might help -- any more diagnositc ideas i have located a plastic gas tank with sending unit -- if i pay for a garage and hoist ill have the last two gas lines and tank replaced at the same time old steel tank probably full of rust which is why i have been keeping the gas tank topped up thanks robert rach running a few hundred feet after a cold start and dying sounds like the float bowl is running empty. i have had a float stick on a holley 7855 do that a time or two. but youve changed carbs.... robert .

From : rachel easson

bigironram wrote hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees set curb idle to 825-875 about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5 set fast idle to 1700 -- one gas line was changed last fall when it passed a quebec safety so since the brakes power steering new tires excellent body lights etc. all done it is almost like new -- will swap motor with my other d150 but need to get it running -- and stay running first -- it is supposed to be my daily driver and i am still driving my brothers spare car any ideas will be greatly appreciated rach it wont restart because it doesnt have gas or spark which is it robert i dont know -- but i just thought -- ill take a wire off the coil tomorrow night -- had a few beers now and dot feel like doing it now unless i cant sleep later -- and see if it sparks i think its fuel related because when it stalls there is no gas smell at all -- but maybe this might help -- any more diagnositc ideas i have located a plastic gas tank with sending unit -- if i pay for a garage and hoist ill have the last two gas lines and tank replaced at the same time old steel tank probably full of rust which is why i have been keeping the gas tank topped up thanks robert rach .

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

how have you got the idle mixture screw adjusted it should start and run with it set 1 1/2 full turns from lightly bottomed and the curb idle screw at 1 full turn open. then adjust for best idle at 700 to 750 warm. fast idle should not have to be over 1000 -1200 rpm. reset the timing between 10 and 12 degrees before top dead center. also check the heat riser valve on the exhaust manifold. if its stuck open you could be stalling due to carburetor icing. -- budd cochran hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees set curb idle to 825-875 about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5 set fast idle to 1700 -- one gas line was changed last fall when it passed a quebec safety so since the brakes power steering new tires excellent body lights etc. all done it is almost like new -- will swap motor with my other d150 but need to get it running -- and stay running first -- it is supposed to be my daily driver and i am still driving my brothers spare car any ideas will be greatly appreciated rach *** free account sponsored by secureix.com *** *** encrypt your internet usage with a free vpn account from http//www.secureix.com *** .

From : tbone

tbone wrote hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold that could be as simple as a bad connection on the coil bad splice in the ignition lines failing ballast or a failing ignition module. i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold that sounds like a fuel problem but could still be the ignition. no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool even if the ignition cuts out you still will not get a flooding smell. do you have a timing light if so connect it when the engine dies and and see if it fires off while cranking. if not then you most likely have an ignition problem. actually a dwell meter would work better for this but they are getting hard to find with todays electronic ignitions that dont need them. i see what you mean about getting a dwell meter -- princess auto -- my favorite store has 78 pages of hand tools and not one dwell meter. i will check napa though since i am about to leave to go there i do have a timing light so ill try this test -- thank you for the tip even pulling the coil wire out of the distributor and holding it a 1/4 from the block will tell you if you have spark. dwell meters are hard to find since the advent of electronic ignitions . . but i have a very old one. bg that would require someone else cranking the engine and the risk of being shocked. most timing lights have long enough wires to bring it into the cab with you and hold the trigger while cranking and if not a simple rubber band will hold the trigger and you can lay it on the air cleaner where you can see the lens while cranking and no risk of shock. rotflmbo!!!! gee tom havent you the cerebral cellular matter to think of 1 holdng it by the insulating boot 2 holding it with a pair of insulated handle pliers 3 using a remote starter button 4 shorting the solenoid relay with a screwdriver 5 having a friend or loved one crank the engine but you still either need someone else and still risk being shocked. do you really think the rubber handles on a conventional pair of pliers will hold back 20000 volts. does she already have a remote start button does she know how to hook it up is the insulation on that wire still good if she is too far away from the metal it will arc back to her anyway. the timing light is the easiest way to do it and requires no help from anyone and none of your crap here says anything different. it appears that you are the one that just posts to argue. not much of a mechanic are you after all. . . . . and yet far more than you seem to be sometimes. i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 that is not good. you may have a real problem with #5. do you have a compressor if so they make a fitting for it to connect your compressor to the cylinder and is used to hold your valves in place with air pressure to allow you to replace the seals and / or springs without removing the head. by way of explanation if the valve is burnt or bent this will not help you. you will still need to pull the head. but the test will confirm it and that is the whole purpose of do

From : cavhbc

bigironram wrote hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees set curb idle to 825-875 about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5 set fast idle to 1700 -- one gas line was changed last fall when it passed a quebec safety so since the brakes power steering new tires excellent body lights etc. all done it is almost like new -- will swap motor with my other d150 but need to get it running -- and stay running first -- it is supposed to be my daily driver and i am still driving my brothers spare car any ideas will be greatly appreciated rach it wont restart because it doesnt have gas or spark which is it robert i dont know -- but i just thought -- ill take a wire off the coil tomorrow night -- had a few beers now and dot feel like doing it now unless i cant sleep later -- and see if it sparks i think its fuel related because when it stalls there is no gas smell at all -- but maybe this might help -- any more diagnositc ideas yup..sure do. cylinder 5..you sure about that reading if its that low and you have a cat on the thing..cut it off with a sawzall and drive it home. i have located a plastic gas tank with sending unit -- if i pay for a garage and hoist ill have the last two gas lines and tank replaced at the same time old steel tank probably full of rust which is why i have been keeping the gas tank topped up thanks robert rach .

From : rachel easson

cavhbc wrote bigironram wrote hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees set curb idle to 825-875 about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5 set fast idle to 1700 -- one gas line was changed last fall when it passed a quebec safety so since the brakes power steering new tires excellent body lights etc. all done it is almost like new -- will swap motor with my other d150 but need to get it running -- and stay running first -- it is supposed to be my daily driver and i am still driving my brothers spare car any ideas will be greatly appreciated rach it wont restart because it doesnt have gas or spark which is it robert i dont know -- but i just thought -- ill take a wire off the coil tomorrow night -- had a few beers now and dot feel like doing it now unless i cant sleep later -- and see if it sparks i think its fuel related because when it stalls there is no gas smell at all -- but maybe this might help -- any more diagnositc ideas i cant spell when inebriated either ;- yup..sure do. cylinder 5..you sure about that reading positive -- checked it three times now -- the other readings are consistent too if its that low and you have a cat on the thing..cut it off with a sawzall and drive it home. no cat converter or smoked cats for that matter heehee -- i wish rach i have located a plastic gas tank with sending unit -- if i pay for a garage and hoist ill have the last two gas lines and tank replaced at the same time old steel tank probably full of rust which is why i have been keeping the gas tank topped up thanks robert rach .

From : tbone

hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold that could be as simple as a bad connection on the coil bad splice in the ignition lines failing ballast or a failing ignition module. i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold that sounds like a fuel problem but could still be the ignition. no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool even if the ignition cuts out you still will not get a flooding smell. do you have a timing light if so connect it when the engine dies and and see if it fires off while cranking. if not then you most likely have an ignition problem. actually a dwell meter would work better for this but they are getting hard to find with todays electronic ignitions that dont need them. i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 that is not good. you may have a real problem with #5. do you have a compressor if so they make a fitting for it to connect your compressor to the cylinder and is used to hold your valves in place with air pressure to allow you to replace the seals and / or springs without removing the head. it can also be used to check for leaks and where they are. i would look into getting one and connecting it to that # 5 cylinder make sure that #5 it is on its compression stroke hit it with around 100 lbs of pressure and see what happens. if you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust you have a valve problem and should probably get by with that for a while. if it sounds like it is coming out of the breather it could be bad rings and i would do a wet compression check on that cylinder to confirm that. if the compression does not improve with a wet test you probably have a damaged piston or severely damaged walls and i would be concerned about its reliability. if you hear nothing at all then you may have a bent connecting rod and i would not trust or use that motor without further inspection. -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees that sounds a bit over advanced. set curb idle to 825-875 about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5 set fast idle to 1700 fast idle is to fast but should have little to do with your current problems. -- one gas line was changed last fall when it passed a quebec safety so since the brakes power steering new tires excellent body lights etc. all done it is almost like new -- will swap motor with my other d150 but need to get it running -- and stay running first with that #5 cylinder i would not invest much money in this motor. -- it is supposed to be my daily driver and i am still driving my brothers spare car any ideas will be greatly appreciated good luck. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : rachel easson

tbone wrote hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold that could be as simple as a bad connection on the coil bad splice in the ignition lines failing ballast or a failing ignition module. i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold that sounds like a fuel problem but could still be the ignition. no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool even if the ignition cuts out you still will not get a flooding smell. do you have a timing light if so connect it when the engine dies and and see if it fires off while cranking. if not then you most likely have an ignition problem. actually a dwell meter would work better for this but they are getting hard to find with todays electronic ignitions that dont need them. i see what you mean about getting a dwell meter -- princess auto -- my favorite store has 78 pages of hand tools and not one dwell meter. i will check napa though since i am about to leave to go there i do have a timing light so ill try this test -- thank you for the tip i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 that is not good. you may have a real problem with #5. do you have a compressor if so they make a fitting for it to connect your compressor to the cylinder and is used to hold your valves in place with air pressure to allow you to replace the seals and / or springs without removing the head. holy shit is that ever cool! i just returned my campbell hauser 8gal and am waiting for a larger stationary one to go on special. i have access to two others in the meantime -- i need good tools because i am not that strong -- ill check on this while at napa i love you guys! it can also be used to check for leaks and where they are. i would look into getting one and connecting it to that # 5 cylinder make sure that #5 it is on its compression stroke hit it with around 100 lbs of pressure and see what happens. if you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust you have a valve problem and should probably get by with that for a while. if it sounds like it is coming out of the breather it could be bad rings and i would do a wet compression check on that cylinder to confirm that. that would be what budd mentioned with squirting the oil in #5 yes if the compression does not improve with a wet test you probably have a damaged piston or severely damaged walls and i would be concerned about its reliability. if you hear nothing at all then you may have a bent connecting rod and i would not trust or use that motor without further inspection. thank you -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees that sounds a bit over advanced. the manual said 16 -- and it sounds good -- but ill check my chilton manual today -- had that on my list to do -- budd told me 10-12 degrees set curb idle to 825-875 about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5 set fast idle to 1700 fast idle is to fast but should have little to do with your current problems. yes a bit fast but it runs smoother and sounds happier -- one gas line was changed last fall when it passed a quebec safety so since the brakes power steering new tires excellent body

From : rachel easson

hi everyone! thank you so much for your help. i have a lot to go through -- which will keep me busy -- and i added a formatted version on my website so i can go print it at the library i also figured if anyone had similar problems in future it might be a reference for them to check heres the link http//www3.sympatico.ca/rske/dodgetrucks/86ishd150.html ill keep you all posted rach .

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

tbone wrote hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold that could be as simple as a bad connection on the coil bad splice in the ignition lines failing ballast or a failing ignition module. i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold that sounds like a fuel problem but could still be the ignition. no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool even if the ignition cuts out you still will not get a flooding smell. do you have a timing light if so connect it when the engine dies and and see if it fires off while cranking. if not then you most likely have an ignition problem. actually a dwell meter would work better for this but they are getting hard to find with todays electronic ignitions that dont need them. i see what you mean about getting a dwell meter -- princess auto -- my favorite store has 78 pages of hand tools and not one dwell meter. i will check napa though since i am about to leave to go there i do have a timing light so ill try this test -- thank you for the tip even pulling the coil wire out of the distributor and holding it a 1/4 from the block will tell you if you have spark. dwell meters are hard to find since the advent of electronic ignitions . . but i have a very old one. bg i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 that is not good. you may have a real problem with #5. do you have a compressor if so they make a fitting for it to connect your compressor to the cylinder and is used to hold your valves in place with air pressure to allow you to replace the seals and / or springs without removing the head. by way of explanation if the valve is burnt or bent this will not help you. you will still need to pull the head. holy shit is that ever cool! i just returned my campbell hauser 8gal and am waiting for a larger stationary one to go on special. i have access to two others in the meantime -- i need good tools because i am not that strong -- ill check on this while at napa i love you guys! to do the test tom mentions you need an air hose run all the way to the truck if its not in your shop ... and i think you said it was out in the field i suggest the compression guage . . .its a bit more portable and will do the preliminary testing. it can also be used to check for leaks and where they are. i would look into getting one and connecting it to that # 5 cylinder make sure that #5 it is on its compression stroke hit it with around 100 lbs of pressure and see what happens. if you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust you have a valve problem and should probably get by with that for a while. if it sounds like it is coming out of the breather it could be bad rings and i would do a wet compression check on that cylinder to confirm that. that would be what budd mentioned with squirting the oil in #5 yes yes it is. i just gave a description instead of the name since you are new to auto mechanics. trying to not cause confusion for you. if the compression does not improve with a wet test you probably have a damaged piston or severely damaged walls and i would be concerned about its reliability. if you

From : nosey

that is not good. you may have a real problem with #5. do you have a compressor if so they make a fitting for it to connect your compressor to the cylinder and is used to hold your valves in place with air pressure to allow you to replace the seals and / or springs without removing the head. by way of explanation if the valve is burnt or bent this will not help you. you will still need to pull the head. to remove a valve yes the head has to come off. if you only want to change the valve springs or seals without removing the head and you dont have an air compressor there is another way. remove the push rods or rockers and spark plug then roll the crankshaft until the piston is all the way down. feed a foot or two of clothes line into the spark plug hole. leave some of the rope hanging out of the hole so you can get it back out when you are finished. turn the crankshaft by hand until the piston pushes the rope up against the valves. the rope will hold the valves closed allowing you to remove the springs and seals. -- ken .

From : Annonymous

budd cochran wrote tbone wrote hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold that could be as simple as a bad connection on the coil bad splice in the ignition lines failing ballast or a failing ignition module. i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold that sounds like a fuel problem but could still be the ignition. no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool even if the ignition cuts out you still will not get a flooding smell. do you have a timing light if so connect it when the engine dies and and see if it fires off while cranking. if not then you most likely have an ignition problem. actually a dwell meter would work better for this but they are getting hard to find with todays electronic ignitions that dont need them. i see what you mean about getting a dwell meter -- princess auto -- my favorite store has 78 pages of hand tools and not one dwell meter. i will check napa though since i am about to leave to go there i do have a timing light so ill try this test -- thank you for the tip even pulling the coil wire out of the distributor and holding it a 1/4 from the block will tell you if you have spark. dwell meters are hard to find since the advent of electronic ignitions . . but i have a very old one. bg i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 that is not good. you may have a real problem with #5. do you have a compressor if so they make a fitting for it to connect your compressor to the cylinder and is used to hold your valves in place with air pressure to allow you to replace the seals and / or springs without removing the head. by way of explanation if the valve is burnt or bent this will not help you. you will still need to pull the head. holy shit is that ever cool! i just returned my campbell hauser 8gal and am waiting for a larger stationary one to go on special. i have access to two others in the meantime -- i need good tools because i am not that strong -- ill check on this while at napa i love you guys! to do the test tom mentions you need an air hose run all the way to the truck if its not in your shop ... and i think you said it was out in the field i suggest the compression guage . . .its a bit more portable and will do the preliminary testing. it can also be used to check for leaks and where they are. i would look into getting one and connecting it to that # 5 cylinder make sure that #5 it is on its compression stroke hit it with around 100 lbs of pressure and see what happens. if you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust you have a valve problem and should probably get by with that for a while. if it sounds like it is coming out of the breather it could be bad rings and i would do a wet compression check on that cylinder to confirm that. that would be what budd mentioned with squirting the oil in #5 yes yes it is. i just gave a description instead of the name since you are new to auto mechanics. trying to not cause confusion for you. if the compression does not improve with a wet test you probably have a damaged piston or severely damaged walls and i would be concerned about its reliability. if you he

From : christopher thompson

tbone wrote hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold that could be as simple as a bad connection on the coil bad splice in the ignition lines failing ballast or a failing ignition module. i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold that sounds like a fuel problem but could still be the ignition. no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool even if the ignition cuts out you still will not get a flooding smell. do you have a timing light if so connect it when the engine dies and and see if it fires off while cranking. if not then you most likely have an ignition problem. actually a dwell meter would work better for this but they are getting hard to find with todays electronic ignitions that dont need them. i see what you mean about getting a dwell meter -- princess auto -- my favorite store has 78 pages of hand tools and not one dwell meter. i will check napa though since i am about to leave to go there i do have a timing light so ill try this test -- thank you for the tip i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 that is not good. you may have a real problem with #5. do you have a compressor if so they make a fitting for it to connect your compressor to the cylinder and is used to hold your valves in place with air pressure to allow you to replace the seals and / or springs without removing the head. holy shit is that ever cool! i just returned my campbell hauser 8gal and am waiting for a larger stationary one to go on special. i have access to two others in the meantime -- i need good tools because i am not that strong -- ill check on this while at napa ive always used the hose from my compression tester for that. you just have to remove the shrader valve. my compression tester has a fitting that my air hose will plug right onto works great. -- -chris i love you guys! it can also be used to check for leaks and where they are. i would look into getting one and connecting it to that # 5 cylinder make sure that #5 it is on its compression stroke hit it with around 100 lbs of pressure and see what happens. if you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust you have a valve problem and should probably get by with that for a while. if it sounds like it is coming out of the breather it could be bad rings and i would do a wet compression check on that cylinder to confirm that. that would be what budd mentioned with squirting the oil in #5 yes if the compression does not improve with a wet test you probably have a damaged piston or severely damaged walls and i would be concerned about its reliability. if you hear nothing at all then you may have a bent connecting rod and i would not trust or use that motor without further inspection. thank you -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees that sounds a bit over advanced. the manual said 16 -- and it sounds good -- but ill check my chilton manual today -- had that on my list to do -- budd told me 10-12 degrees set curb idle to 825-875 about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5 set fast idle to 1700 fast idle is to fast but should have litt

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

t-bone failed to mention what to do if his test showed a bad valve. besides bad valve seals wont drop the cylinder pressure to 55 psi. another possibility but pretty rare on /6s is a blown head gasket. usually they blow between two cylinders and that drops the pressures for both of them which is why i dont suspect it with her engine. -- budd cochran that is not good. you may have a real problem with #5. do you have a compressor if so they make a fitting for it to connect your compressor to the cylinder and is used to hold your valves in place with air pressure to allow you to replace the seals and / or springs without removing the head. by way of explanation if the valve is burnt or bent this will not help you. you will still need to pull the head. to remove a valve yes the head has to come off. if you only want to change the valve springs or seals without removing the head and you dont have an air compressor there is another way. remove the push rods or rockers and spark plug then roll the crankshaft until the piston is all the way down. feed a foot or two of clothes line into the spark plug hole. leave some of the rope hanging out of the hole so you can get it back out when you are finished. turn the crankshaft by hand until the piston pushes the rope up against the valves. the rope will hold the valves closed allowing you to remove the springs and seals. -- ken *** free account sponsored by secureix.com *** *** encrypt your internet usage with a free vpn account from http//www.secureix.com *** .

From : max dodge

that is not good. you may have a real problem with #5. do you have a compressor if so they make a fitting for it to connect your compressor to the cylinder and is used to hold your valves in place with air pressure to allow you to replace the seals and / or springs without removing the head. first using compressed air to hold the valves in place is a risky affair. use a length of cheap clothesline inserted in the plug hole and run the piston up against it to hold the valves closed. safer and easier than hoping the air prssure doesnt bleed past the rings too fast..... which it will do given the compression reading. but i have to ask how the hell are new stem seals going to help compression why are you even suggesting somehting like that regarding a low cylinder pressure reading it can also be used to check for leaks and where they are. sure it can but it wont tell you if its a normal rate unless you have a leak down tester. i would look into getting one and connecting it to that # 5 cylinder make sure that #5 it is on its compression stroke hit it with around 100 lbs of pressure and see what happens. if you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust you have a valve problem and should probably get by with that for a while. um no. if its an exhaust valve what youve suggested is a good way to burn the valve and the seat causing more damage. if its an intake valve what youve suggested can result in backfire through the intake which has no good effects at all. if it sounds like it is coming out of the breather it could be bad rings and i would do a wet compression check on that cylinder to confirm that. if the compression does not improve with a wet test you probably have a damaged piston or severely damaged walls and i would be concerned about its reliability. if you hear nothing at all then you may have a bent connecting rod and i would not trust or use that motor without further inspection. a bent connecting rod in a slant six is almost impossible and certainly would be accompanied with other noise if it did occur. -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees that sounds a bit over advanced. not on a slant six. set curb idle to 825-875 about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5 set fast idle to 1700 fast idle is to fast but should have little to do with your current problems. fully agree 1700 is way too high for idle speed. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold that could be as simple as a bad connection on the coil bad splice in the ignition lines failing ballast or a failing ignition module. i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold that sounds like a fuel problem but could still be the ignition. no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool even if the ignition cuts out you still will not get a flooding smell. do you have a timing light if so connect it when the engine dies and and see if it fires off while cranking. if not then you most likely have an ignition problem. actually a dwell meter would work better for this but they are getting hard to find with todays electronic ignitions that dont need them. i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete

From : tom lawrence

first using compressed air to hold the valves in place is a risky affair. use a length of cheap clothesline inserted in the plug hole and run the piston up against it to hold the valves closed. safer and easier than hoping the air prssure doesnt bleed past the rings too fast..... or that you dont have it exactly at tdc in which case the air blows the piston back down... usually right after you remove the keeper .

From : tbone

if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving first using compressed air to hold the valves in place is a risky affair. use a length of cheap clothesline inserted in the plug hole and run the piston up against it to hold the valves closed. safer and easier than hoping the air prssure doesnt bleed past the rings too fast..... or that you dont have it exactly at tdc in which case the air blows the piston back down... usually right after you remove the keeper lol if the rocker arms were removed who cares. the pressure will still not drop enough to let the valves fall but then again nobody is suggesting replacing springs or seals anyway. the tool is only being used to determine what if anything is leaking. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tbone

tbone wrote hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold that could be as simple as a bad connection on the coil bad splice in the ignition lines failing ballast or a failing ignition module. i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold that sounds like a fuel problem but could still be the ignition. no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool even if the ignition cuts out you still will not get a flooding smell. do you have a timing light if so connect it when the engine dies and and see if it fires off while cranking. if not then you most likely have an ignition problem. actually a dwell meter would work better for this but they are getting hard to find with todays electronic ignitions that dont need them. i see what you mean about getting a dwell meter -- princess auto -- my favorite store has 78 pages of hand tools and not one dwell meter. i will check napa though since i am about to leave to go there i do have a timing light so ill try this test -- thank you for the tip even pulling the coil wire out of the distributor and holding it a 1/4 from the block will tell you if you have spark. dwell meters are hard to find since the advent of electronic ignitions . . but i have a very old one. bg that would require someone else cranking the engine and the risk of being shocked. most timing lights have long enough wires to bring it into the cab with you and hold the trigger while cranking and if not a simple rubber band will hold the trigger and you can lay it on the air cleaner where you can see the lens while cranking and no risk of shock. i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 that is not good. you may have a real problem with #5. do you have a compressor if so they make a fitting for it to connect your compressor to the cylinder and is used to hold your valves in place with air pressure to allow you to replace the seals and / or springs without removing the head. by way of explanation if the valve is burnt or bent this will not help you. you will still need to pull the head. but the test will confirm it and that is the whole purpose of doing this to see where the air is leaking from. holy shit is that ever cool! i just returned my campbell hauser 8gal and am waiting for a larger stationary one to go on special. i have access to two others in the meantime -- i need good tools because i am not that strong -- ill check on this while at napa i love you guys! to do the test tom mentions you need an air hose run all the way to the truck if its not in your shop ... and i think you said it was out in the field i suggest the compression guage . . .its a bit more portable and will do the preliminary testing. i guess reading isnt your thing. if you look above you will see some compression numbers. how do you think she got them here is a hint a compression guage. the test i suggested using the air chuck will help to determine where the air is going. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tbone

t-bone failed to mention what to do if his test showed a bad valve. besides bad valve seals wont drop the cylinder pressure to 55 psi. another possibility but pretty rare on /6s is a blown head gasket. usually they blow between two cylinders and that drops the pressures for both of them which is why i dont suspect it with her engine. i didnt mention anything because there is nothing to do. if it has a bad valve thats it since she intends to replace the engine anyway and if it is a bad exhaust just let it run that way until she gets around to replacing it. where in the hell are you idiots coming up with this bad valve seal crap replacing valve seals retainers and springs is what the tool was intended for not what i am having her use it for. perhaps a first grade reading class is in order. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tbone

that is not good. you may have a real problem with #5. do you have a compressor if so they make a fitting for it to connect your compressor to the cylinder and is used to hold your valves in place with air pressure to allow you to replace the seals and / or springs without removing the head. first using compressed air to hold the valves in place is a risky affair. use a length of cheap clothesline inserted in the plug hole and run the piston up against it to hold the valves closed. safer and easier than hoping the air prssure doesnt bleed past the rings too fast..... are you really this desperate max. who the hell is telling her to replace either seals or springs. i was explainig the purpose of the tool so in case she wants to get one she can tell the salesman what it is used for since i dont remember its name. which it will do given the compression reading. that is the whole idea to find out where the pressure is going. but i have to ask how the hell are new stem seals going to help compression why are you even suggesting somehting like that regarding a low cylinder pressure reading i am doing no such thing moron. it is a test to see where the air is going if anywhere at all. perhaps you should read the whole thing before making a complete ass out of yourself. it can also be used to check for leaks and where they are. sure it can but it wont tell you if its a normal rate unless you have a leak down tester. lol it will show you where you are leaking from. i guess your engine diagnostic ability runs right up there with your electrical knowledge. i would look into getting one and connecting it to that # 5 cylinder make sure that #5 it is on its compression stroke hit it with around 100 lbs of pressure and see what happens. if you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust you have a valve problem and should probably get by with that for a while. um no. if its an exhaust valve what youve suggested is a good way to burn the valve and the seat causing more damage. if its an intake valve what youve suggested can result in backfire through the intake which has no good effects at all. hahahahaha you really are a retard. how is pushing 100lbs of air into a non-running engine going to cause either one of these conditions you do know that when it is on its compression stroke both valves will be closed right if it sounds like it is coming out of the breather it could be bad rings and i would do a wet compression check on that cylinder to confirm that. if the compression does not improve with a wet test you probably have a damaged piston or severely damaged walls and i would be concerned about its reliability. if you hear nothing at all then you may have a bent connecting rod and i would not trust or use that motor without further inspection. a bent connecting rod in a slant six is almost impossible and certainly would be accompanied with other noise if it did occur. wrong!!!! it can happen i have seen it and it caused no noise at all and i never said it was the most likely cause of the problem only that it could and is far more likely than your bad battery in the other thread. -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees that sounds a bit over advanced. not on a slant six. set curb idle to 825-875 about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5 set fast idle to 1700 fast idle is to fast but should have little to do with your current problems. fully agree 1700 is way too high for idle speed. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : nosey

tbone wrote t-bone failed to mention what to do if his test showed a bad valve. besides bad valve seals wont drop the cylinder pressure to 55 psi. another possibility but pretty rare on /6s is a blown head gasket. usually they blow between two cylinders and that drops the pressures for both of them which is why i dont suspect it with her engine. i didnt mention anything because there is nothing to do. if it has a bad valve thats it since she intends to replace the engine anyway and if it is a bad exhaust just let it run that way until she gets around to replacing it. where in the hell are you idiots coming up with this bad valve seal crap replacing valve seals retainers and springs is what the tool was intended for not what i am having her use it for. perhaps a first grade reading class is in order. perhaps you should take that reading class. -- ken .

From : tbone

hey nosey gfy! -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving tbone wrote t-bone failed to mention what to do if his test showed a bad valve. besides bad valve seals wont drop the cylinder pressure to 55 psi. another possibility but pretty rare on /6s is a blown head gasket. usually they blow between two cylinders and that drops the pressures for both of them which is why i dont suspect it with her engine. i didnt mention anything because there is nothing to do. if it has a bad valve thats it since she intends to replace the engine anyway and if it is a bad exhaust just let it run that way until she gets around to replacing it. where in the hell are you idiots coming up with this bad valve seal crap replacing valve seals retainers and springs is what the tool was intended for not what i am having her use it for. perhaps a first grade reading class is in order. perhaps you should take that reading class. -- ken .

From : max dodge

perhaps a first grade reading class is in order. perhaps then you would write more clearly. let us know when youve completed it. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author t-bone failed to mention what to do if his test showed a bad valve. besides bad valve seals wont drop the cylinder pressure to 55 psi. another possibility but pretty rare on /6s is a blown head gasket. usually they blow between two cylinders and that drops the pressures for both of them which is why i dont suspect it with her engine. i didnt mention anything because there is nothing to do. if it has a bad valve thats it since she intends to replace the engine anyway and if it is a bad exhaust just let it run that way until she gets around to replacing it. where in the hell are you idiots coming up with this bad valve seal crap replacing valve seals retainers and springs is what the tool was intended for not what i am having her use it for. perhaps a first grade reading class is in order. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : max dodge

are you really this desperate max. who the hell is telling her to replace either seals or springs. i was explainig the purpose of the tool so in case she wants to get one she can tell the salesman what it is used for since i dont remember its name. its a leakdown tester something you would know if you..... well if you knew. but you dont. i am doing no such thing moron. it is a test to see where the air is going if anywhere at all. perhaps you should read the whole thing before making a complete ass out of yourself. perhaps you should find out what tool you are talking about before makign a complete ass of yourself. sure it can but it wont tell you if its a normal rate unless you have a leak down tester. lol it will show you where you are leaking from. i guess your engine diagnostic ability runs right up there with your electrical knowledge. yeah which would put it far higher than either one of yours. see what happens. if you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust you have a valve problem and should probably get by with that for a while. um no. if its an exhaust valve what youve suggested is a good way to burn the valve and the seat causing more damage. if its an intake valve what youve suggested can result in backfire through the intake which has no good effects at all. hahahahaha you really are a retard. how is pushing 100lbs of air into a non-running engine going to cause either one of these conditions you do know that when it is on its compression stroke both valves will be closed right you claim the following see what happens. if you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust you have a valve problem and should probably get by with that for a while. my point is she cannot get by with that for a while without risking serious damage to the cylinder head. try reading before you make an ass of yourself. a bent connecting rod in a slant six is almost impossible and certainly would be accompanied with other noise if it did occur. wrong!!!! it can happen i have seen it and it caused no noise at all and i never said it was the most likely cause of the problem only that it could and is far more likely than your bad battery in the other thread. no noise at all despite having a 4.125 stroke that would have the rod slapping the piston skirt no noise at all despite cocking the piston in the bore causing either a very bad case of skirt slap or a huge amount of friction in the bore yeah ok... sure. well chalk this one up to your overall credibility. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author that is not good. you may have a real problem with #5. do you have a compressor if so they make a fitting for it to connect your compressor to the cylinder and is used to hold your valves in place with air pressure to allow you to replace the seals and / or springs without removing the head. first using compressed air to hold the valves in place is a risky affair. use a length of cheap clothesline inserted in the plug hole and run the piston up against it to hold the valves closed. safer and easier than hoping the air prssure doesnt bleed past the rings too fast..... are you really this desperate max. who the hell is telling her to replace either seals or springs. i was explainig the purpose of the tool so in case she wants to get one she can tell the salesman what it is used for since i dont remember its name. which it will do given the compression reading. that is the whole idea to find out where the pressure is going. but i have to ask how the hell are new stem seals going to help compression why are you even suggesting somehting like that regarding a low cylinder pressure reading i am doing no such thing moron. it is a test to see where the air is going if anywhere at all. perhaps you should read the whole thing before making a complete ass out of yourself. it can also be used to check for leaks and where they are. sure it can but it wont tell you if its a normal rate unless you have a leak down tester. lol it will show you where you are leaking from. i guess your engine diagnostic ability runs right up there with your electrical knowledge. i would look into getting one and connecting it to that # 5 cylinder make sure that #5 it is on its compression stroke hit it with around 100 lbs of pressure and see what happens. if you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust you have a valve problem and should probably get by with that for a while. um no. if its an exhaust valve what youve suggested is a good way to burn the valve and the seat causing more damage. if its an intake valve what youve suggested can result in backfire through the intake which has no good effects at all. hahahahaha you really are a retard. how is pushing 100lbs

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

why from you tom. rach mentions a dead cylinder and you start talking about using air to change springs and seals. so explain how changing the springs and seals are gonna help her dead cylinder btw you missed where she decided to work on the other truck because of the dead cylinder in this one. -- budd cochran john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 our constitution was made only for a moral and religious people. it is wholly inadequate for the government of any other. john adams t-bone failed to mention what to do if his test showed a bad valve. besides bad valve seals wont drop the cylinder pressure to 55 psi. another possibility but pretty rare on /6s is a blown head gasket. usually they blow between two cylinders and that drops the pressures for both of them which is why i dont suspect it with her engine. i didnt mention anything because there is nothing to do. if it has a bad valve thats it since she intends to replace the engine anyway and if it is a bad exhaust just let it run that way until she gets around to replacing it. where in the hell are you idiots coming up with this bad valve seal crap replacing valve seals retainers and springs is what the tool was intended for not what i am having her use it for. perhaps a first grade reading class is in order. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving *** free account sponsored by secureix.com *** *** encrypt your internet usage with a free vpn account from http//www.secureix.com *** .

From : tbone

once again budd you see only what you want to see. i gave her a description of what the tool was intended for so she could say it to the salesman if she wanted to buy one. i then went on to explain how to use that tool to help her diagnose what failed on that cylinder. it had nothing to do with changing seals or springs but feel free to show me exactly where i said to do either one or is this just another one of your all too typical false accusations btw why are you replying to me -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving why from you tom. rach mentions a dead cylinder and you start talking about using air to change springs and seals. so explain how changing the springs and seals are gonna help her dead cylinder btw you missed where she decided to work on the other truck because of the dead cylinder in this one. -- budd cochran john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 our constitution was made only for a moral and religious people. it is wholly inadequate for the government of any other. john adams t-bone failed to mention what to do if his test showed a bad valve. besides bad valve seals wont drop the cylinder pressure to 55 psi. another possibility but pretty rare on /6s is a blown head gasket. usually they blow between two cylinders and that drops the pressures for both of them which is why i dont suspect it with her engine. i didnt mention anything because there is nothing to do. if it has a bad valve thats it since she intends to replace the engine anyway and if it is a bad exhaust just let it run that way until she gets around to replacing it. where in the hell are you idiots coming up with this bad valve seal crap replacing valve seals retainers and springs is what the tool was intended for not what i am having her use it for. perhaps a first grade reading class is in order. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving *** free account sponsored by secureix.com *** *** encrypt your internet usage with a free vpn account from http//www.secureix.com *** .

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

tbone wrote hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold that could be as simple as a bad connection on the coil bad splice in the ignition lines failing ballast or a failing ignition module. i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold that sounds like a fuel problem but could still be the ignition. no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool even if the ignition cuts out you still will not get a flooding smell. do you have a timing light if so connect it when the engine dies and and see if it fires off while cranking. if not then you most likely have an ignition problem. actually a dwell meter would work better for this but they are getting hard to find with todays electronic ignitions that dont need them. i see what you mean about getting a dwell meter -- princess auto -- my favorite store has 78 pages of hand tools and not one dwell meter. i will check napa though since i am about to leave to go there i do have a timing light so ill try this test -- thank you for the tip even pulling the coil wire out of the distributor and holding it a 1/4 from the block will tell you if you have spark. dwell meters are hard to find since the advent of electronic ignitions . . but i have a very old one. bg that would require someone else cranking the engine and the risk of being shocked. most timing lights have long enough wires to bring it into the cab with you and hold the trigger while cranking and if not a simple rubber band will hold the trigger and you can lay it on the air cleaner where you can see the lens while cranking and no risk of shock. rotflmbo!!!! gee tom havent you the cerebral cellular matter to think of 1 holdng it by the insulating boot 2 holding it with a pair of insulated handle pliers 3 using a remote starter button 4 shorting the solenoid relay with a screwdriver 5 having a friend or loved one crank the engine not much of a mechanic are you after all. . . . . i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 that is not good. you may have a real problem with #5. do you have a compressor if so they make a fitting for it to connect your compressor to the cylinder and is used to hold your valves in place with air pressure to allow you to replace the seals and / or springs without removing the head. by way of explanation if the valve is burnt or bent this will not help you. you will still need to pull the head. but the test will confirm it and that is the whole purpose of doing this to see where the air is leaking from. if a wet cranking test shows no improvement then the head needs to be pulled anyway so why drag out all that paraphenalia just to have to put it all back up holy shit is that ever cool! i just returned my campbell hauser 8gal and am waiting for a larger stationary one to go on special. i have access to two others in the meantime -- i need good tools because i am not that strong -- ill check on this while at napa i love you guys! to do the test tom mentions you need an air hose run all the way to the truck if its not in your shop ... and i think you said it wa

From : tbone

are you really this desperate max. who the hell is telling her to replace either seals or springs. i was explainig the purpose of the tool so in case she wants to get one she can tell the salesman what it is used for since i dont remember its name. its a leakdown tester something you would know if you..... well if you knew. but you dont. once again max you got it wrong. it is called an air hold fitting and a set costs around $6. a leakdown tester is more in the price range between $60 and $300 and would do no more for her. a leakdown tester can show you when something is just starting to fail as well as help you determine what is failing but this cylinder already has failed so here it would be a huge waste of money when a $6 dollar tool can help her find out what failed just as easily at 1/10 or less the cost. now who is the one that doesnt know. i am doing no such thing moron. it is a test to see where the air is going if anywhere at all. perhaps you should read the whole thing before making a complete ass out of yourself. perhaps you should find out what tool you are talking about before makign a complete ass of yourself. i must say max you do make me laugh when it is you are once again the one doing just that. sure it can but it wont tell you if its a normal rate unless you have a leak down tester. lol it will show you where you are leaking from. i guess your engine diagnostic ability runs right up there with your electrical knowledge. yeah which would put it far higher than either one of yours. sure battery boy whatever you say. i guess that goes along with your cold air from a compressor burning valve seats. see what happens. if you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust you have a valve problem and should probably get by with that for a while. um no. if its an exhaust valve what youve suggested is a good way to burn the valve and the seat causing more damage. if its an intake valve what youve suggested can result in backfire through the intake which has no good effects at all. hahahahaha you really are a retard. how is pushing 100lbs of air into a non-running engine going to cause either one of these conditions you do know that when it is on its compression stroke both valves will be closed right you claim the following see what happens. if you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust you have a valve problem and should probably get by with that for a while. that is correct. it will help determine if a valve and which one if not both have failed and the cold air cannot cause a non running engine to backfire or burn an exhaust valve. my point is she cannot get by with that for a while without risking serious damage to the cylinder head. try reading before you make an ass of yourself. that is not what you said so perhaps you should write more clearly. the point is that since the cylinder is already down to 50lbs the damage has already been done and she has made the claim that the engine is a throwaway anyway so who cares about additional damage and with only 50lbs of compression i doubt it will get much worse now anyway. once again you accuse me of doing what you are doing right now. a bent connecting rod in a slant six is almost impossible and certainly would be accompanied with other noise if it did occur. wrong!!!! it can happen i have seen it and it caused no noise at all and i never said it was the most likely cause of the problem only that it could and is far more likely than your bad battery in the other thread. no noise at all despite having a 4.125 stroke that would have the rod slapping the piston skirt hahahaha now that would depend on where it bent and how much wouldnt it. no noise at all despite cocking the piston in the bore causing either a very bad case of skirt slap or a huge amount of friction in the bore once again that alligator mouth overruns your hummingbird ass. yeah ok... sure. well chalk this one up to your overall credibility. the sad thing here max is that between this and the caravan thread you are rapidly losing any possible credibility you thought you had but dont let that worry you since you dont really have any anyway. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : nosey

damn. all this time i thought it was really a bad hub cap gasket that was the problem. beekeep where would you get a new hub cap gasket if that were the problem i figured kaleco would have them but no they have everything except that. www.kalecoauto.com -- ken .

From : max dodge

once again max you got it wrong. it is called an air hold fitting and a set costs around $6. a leakdown tester is more in the price range between $60 and $300 and would do no more for her. a leakdown tester can show you when something is just starting to fail as well as help you determine what is failing but this cylinder already has failed so here it would be a huge waste of money when a $6 dollar tool can help her find out what failed just as easily at 1/10 or less the cost. now who is the one that doesnt know. why spend so much time let alone $6 on dragging an air hose out to the engine if its already failed you defeat your own argument here. that is correct. it will help determine if a valve and which one if not both have failed and the cold air cannot cause a non running engine to backfire or burn an exhaust valve. yeah you made thta observation before and i wasnt taking issue with that. maybe its that reading problem you have hahahaha now that would depend on where it bent and how much wouldnt it. yup and it wouldnt take much because its not going to bend just a little bit once its started. on a stroke that long its going to club that rod to death making all sorts of noise in the process. no noise at all despite cocking the piston in the bore causing either a very bad case of skirt slap or a huge amount of friction in the bore once again that alligator mouth overruns your hummingbird ass. once again youve got no facts to back up you inane claims just stupid colloquailisms that mean nothing and are irrelevant. sadly its getting easier to drive you to that point. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author are you really this desperate max. who the hell is telling her to replace either seals or springs. i was explainig the purpose of the tool so in case she wants to get one she can tell the salesman what it is used for since i dont remember its name. its a leakdown tester something you would know if you..... well if you knew. but you dont. once again max you got it wrong. it is called an air hold fitting and a set costs around $6. a leakdown tester is more in the price range between $60 and $300 and would do no more for her. a leakdown tester can show you when something is just starting to fail as well as help you determine what is failing but this cylinder already has failed so here it would be a huge waste of money when a $6 dollar tool can help her find out what failed just as easily at 1/10 or less the cost. now who is the one that doesnt know. i am doing no such thing moron. it is a test to see where the air is going if anywhere at all. perhaps you should read the whole thing before making a complete ass out of yourself. perhaps you should find out what tool you are talking about before makign a complete ass of yourself. i must say max you do make me laugh when it is you are once again the one doing just that. sure it can but it wont tell you if its a normal rate unless you have a leak down tester. lol it will show you where you are leaking from. i guess your engine diagnostic ability runs right up there with your electrical knowledge. yeah which would put it far higher than either one of yours. sure battery boy whatever you say. i guess that goes along with your cold air from a compressor burning valve seats. see what happens. if you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust you have a valve problem and should probably get by with that for a while. um no. if its an exhaust valve what youve suggested is a good way to burn the valve and the seat causing more damage. if its an intake valve what youve suggested can result in backfire through the intake which has no good effects at all. hahahahaha you really are a retard. how is pushing 100lbs of air into a non-running engine going to cause either one of these conditions you do know that when it is on its compression stroke both valves will be closed right you claim the following see what happens. if you hear air hissing out of the carb or exhaust you have a valve problem and should probably get by with that for a while. that is correct. it will help determine if a valve and which one if not both have failed and the cold air cannot cause a non running engine to backfire or burn an exhaust valve. my point is she cannot get by with that for a while without risking serious damage to the cylinder head. try reading before you make an ass of yourself. that is not what you said so perhaps you should write more clearly. the point is that since the cylinder is already down to 50lbs the damage has already been done and she has made the claim that the engine is a throwaway anyway so who cares about additional damage and with only 50lbs of compression i doubt it will get much w

From : beekeep

on thu 30 mar 2006 165500 -0500 rachel easson rske@sympatico.ca wrote rachel easson wrote hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees set curb idle to 825-875 about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5 set fast idle to 1700 -- one gas line was changed last fall when it passed a quebec safety so since the brakes power steering new tires excellent body lights etc. all done it is almost like new -- will swap motor with my other d150 but need to get it running -- and stay running first -- it is supposed to be my daily driver and i am still driving my brothers spare car any ideas will be greatly appreciated rach hi! great -- i complied the thread as some of you know and the engine advice will be very helpful now and in future. it is now running. i did get some help from my new boyfriend who shares renovation skills with me and used to do some mechanics 25 years ago or so. being prepared helped a lot. we had balmy 14 degree celcuis temperatures this afternoon so i payed him to take the afternoon off to help. turns out that one of the first things i changed egr valve had a lot to do with it. the egr solenoid was working back last fall when checked but after checking the charcoal cylinder then checking pressure again he noticed the vacuum to the carb was almost non existent -- seems that although the egr valve was good earlier its connections were getting more and more corroded -- turned out to be a poor electrical connection from the egr solenoid to the egr valve. there may have been other contributing factors resolved during the process of replacing almost everything else... now i am going to get the other 1986 safetied asap then sell this one after taking off the good parts. thank you again all for your help. i could not have done this without you and would probably given up hope. rach p.s i have just updated the web page accordingly and leave it there in case anyone else needs similar help. damn. all this time i thought it was really a bad hub cap gasket that was the problem. beekeep .

From : rachel easson

beekeep wrote on thu 30 mar 2006 165500 -0500 rachel easson rske@sympatico.ca wrote rachel easson wrote hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees set curb idle to 825-875 about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5 set fast idle to 1700 -- one gas line was changed last fall when it passed a quebec safety so since the brakes power steering new tires excellent body lights etc. all done it is almost like new -- will swap motor with my other d150 but need to get it running -- and stay running first -- it is supposed to be my daily driver and i am still driving my brothers spare car any ideas will be greatly appreciated rach hi! great -- i complied the thread as some of you know and the engine advice will be very helpful now and in future. it is now running. i did get some help from my new boyfriend who shares renovation skills with me and used to do some mechanics 25 years ago or so. being prepared helped a lot. we had balmy 14 degree celcuis temperatures this afternoon so i payed him to take the afternoon off to help. turns out that one of the first things i changed egr valve had a lot to do with it. the egr solenoid was working back last fall when checked but after checking the charcoal cylinder then checking pressure again he noticed the vacuum to the carb was almost non existent -- seems that although the egr valve was good earlier its connections were getting more and more corroded -- turned out to be a poor electrical connection from the egr solenoid to the egr valve. there may have been other contributing factors resolved during the process of replacing almost everything else... now i am going to get the other 1986 safetied asap then sell this one after taking off the good parts. thank you again all for your help. i could not have done this without you and would probably given up hope. rach p.s i have just updated the web page accordingly and leave it there in case anyone else needs similar help. damn. all this time i thought it was really a bad hub cap gasket that was the problem. beekeep good one! hey i just updated the page you might want to take a look just 25 minutes -- not a lot of work rach .

From : rachel easson

oh and the page is http//www3.sympatico.ca/rske/dodgetrucks/ rach beekeep wrote on thu 30 mar 2006 165500 -0500 rachel easson rske@sympatico.ca wrote rachel easson wrote hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees set curb idle to 825-875 about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5 set fast idle to 1700 -- one gas line was changed last fall when it passed a quebec safety so since the brakes power steering new tires excellent body lights etc. all done it is almost like new -- will swap motor with my other d150 but need to get it running -- and stay running first -- it is supposed to be my daily driver and i am still driving my brothers spare car any ideas will be greatly appreciated rach hi! great -- i complied the thread as some of you know and the engine advice will be very helpful now and in future. it is now running. i did get some help from my new boyfriend who shares renovation skills with me and used to do some mechanics 25 years ago or so. being prepared helped a lot. we had balmy 14 degree celcuis temperatures this afternoon so i payed him to take the afternoon off to help. turns out that one of the first things i changed egr valve had a lot to do with it. the egr solenoid was working back last fall when checked but after checking the charcoal cylinder then checking pressure again he noticed the vacuum to the carb was almost non existent -- seems that although the egr valve was good earlier its connections were getting more and more corroded -- turned out to be a poor electrical connection from the egr solenoid to the egr valve. there may have been other contributing factors resolved during the process of replacing almost everything else... now i am going to get the other 1986 safetied asap then sell this one after taking off the good parts. thank you again all for your help. i could not have done this without you and would probably given up hope. rach p.s i have just updated the web page accordingly and leave it there in case anyone else needs similar help. damn. all this time i thought it was really a bad hub cap gasket that was the problem. beekeep .

From : tbone

once again max you got it wrong. it is called an air hold fitting and a set costs around $6. a leakdown tester is more in the price range between $60 and $300 and would do no more for her. a leakdown tester can show you when something is just starting to fail as well as help you determine what is failing but this cylinder already has failed so here it would be a huge waste of money when a $6 dollar tool can help her find out what failed just as easily at 1/10 or less the cost. now who is the one that doesnt know. why spend so much time let alone $6 on dragging an air hose out to the engine if its already failed you defeat your own argument here. lol is that all you got i guess its better than admitting to error. that is correct. it will help determine if a valve and which one if not both have failed and the cold air cannot cause a non running engine to backfire or burn an exhaust valve. yeah you made thta observation before and i wasnt taking issue with that. maybe its that reading problem you have it is probably more in line with your writing ability. hahahaha now that would depend on where it bent and how much wouldnt it. yup and it wouldnt take much because its not going to bend just a little bit once its started. care to back that one up on a stroke that long its going to club that rod to death making all sorts of noise in the process. once again you make claims that you can in no way back up. no noise at all despite cocking the piston in the bore causing either a very bad case of skirt slap or a huge amount of friction in the bore once again that alligator mouth overruns your hummingbird ass. once again youve got no facts to back up you inane claims just stupid colloquailisms that mean nothing and are irrelevant. you are the one making claims here and have yet to back up a single one. i know you and budd like to accuse the other one of doing what you are to try and throw the other readers off as to who is screwing up but you do it so often that it really doesnt work anymore. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tbone

but you still either need someone else and still risk being shocked. do you really think the rubber handles on a conventional pair of pliers will hold back 20000 volts. quit buying your tools out of the $1 bin at the drugstore tom. i dont buy cheep tools budd. at best they will cause even more damage to what you are working on and at worst they can seriously injure you while doing it. if you knew even half of what you claim to you would know that the rubber grips on most pliers were not put there with insulation from electricity in mind and are not good insulators at all. does she already have a remote start button does she know how to hook it up is the insulation on that wire still good if she is too far away from the metal it will arc back to her anyway. the timing light is the easiest way to do it and requires no help from anyone and none of your crap here says anything different. it appears that you are the one that just posts to argue. no tom that would only be you since youve posted your assaults directed toward me on a bunch of other replies and this is only the second reply to you in a month or better from me. sorry budd but you really are standing on thin ice here. you are the one making most of the attacks lately even if you try to hide behind replying to others posts. not much of a mechanic are you after all. . . . . and yet far more than you seem to be sometimes. really im not the one giving useless advice to a novice mechanic. sure you are like when you suggested she use a compression guage to determine what was leaking especially after she already performed that test to get the readings. my advice simply allowed her to determine why #5 had such poor compression and there was nothing useless about it. but the test will confirm it and that is the whole purpose of doing this to see where the air is leaking from. if a wet cranking test shows no improvement then the head needs to be pulled anyway so why drag out all that paraphenalia just to have to put it all back up why since she claimed this to be a throw away motor if the problem is just a burned valve who cares. obviously not you thats for certain. you are correct i dont. why should i if she doesnt. its only a motor that she intended to dump anyway not someones life or even only means of transportation. let it run that way until she gets rid of it. if the problem proves to be something else she may not want to depend on it as it may completely fail and get her stuck. and you completely missed or ignored her post about not swapping engines now and the one about the location of the truck. trucks can be towed if needed and unless she swaps that one out she will have to rebuild it. and intelligence / social interaction isnt your thing among others including reading. and this from the one who uses the excuse of not being politically correct as a defense for treating others like crap. its not an excuse tom im not politically correct and you will always get from me what you dish out. now that is just a lie. you are more times than not the one that dishes it out. you may call it politically incorrect i just call it ignorant. iirc the truck is considerable distance from the compressor . . .so why dont you buy her a few hundred yards of hose a huge compressor to supply the pressure / volume at that distance and have it all shipped internationally to canada . . .im sure shell appreciate the gift. alternatively you could just send her a huge extension cord . . . . . you are kidding right!!! you hardly need a huge compressor to do this and if she intends to repair the vehicle then she will need to more it to an area where she has tools and light anyway. i see english is still not your forte . . .but i have to assume you mean she needs to move the vehicle. unless im mistaken this is the truck stuck in deep snow mentioned in another post so moving it would be difficult if not impossible right now. lol reduced to attacking me on typos huh! is that all you got if the truck is currently so stuck what is the point of fixing it if it cannot get out of where it is anyway again you ignore previously posted info and plunge forward with your crap expecting everything to be as you say it should be. do you mean like your rewrite of ohms laws mr the voltage drop goes down as current increases. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

but you still either need someone else and still risk being shocked. do you really think the rubber handles on a conventional pair of pliers will hold back 20000 volts. quit buying your tools out of the $1 bin at the drugstore tom. i dont buy cheep tools budd. at best they will cause even more damage to what you are working on and at worst they can seriously injure you while doing it. if you knew even half of what you claim to you would know that the rubber grips on most pliers were not put there with insulation from electricity in mind and are not good insulators at all. really then why are the vinyl rubber grips on my craftman tools given a insulation rating by the manufacturer western forge and by craftsman why have i been able to use those insulated tools in handling 110 220 and 440 volt live wires as a millwright how come i can hold a plug wire on a capacitor discharge ignition by the boot or the wire insulation and check for spark whats the voltage rating for a single layer 3 mil of vinyl electrical tape . . . go ahead cheat and look on the package id rather you get this one right for your own safety. you do know that something like 1 to 2 percent of the worlds population are hypersensitive to electrical shock and cant touch an ignition system at all when the engine is running dont you btw i also have a very old pair of slip joint pliers that belonged to my step-dad with no insulation. the knurled grip handles dont slip as bad as the rubber handles when greasy. now to make sure you understand that i do know the effects of ignition sparks i test the point type ignition briggs kohler tecumseh coils by holding the plug lead close to ground and briefly connecting a 1.5 volt flashlight battery across the primary wires. the resultant spark is only about 3000 volts but if i get a spark at all the coil is good. occasionally i get bit by them. does she already have a remote start button does she know how to hook it up is the insulation on that wire still good if she is too far away from the metal it will arc back to her anyway. the timing light is the easiest way to do it and requires no help from anyone and none of your crap here says anything different. it appears that you are the one that just posts to argue. no tom that would only be you since youve posted your assaults directed toward me on a bunch of other replies and this is only the second reply to you in a month or better from me. sorry budd but you really are standing on thin ice here. you are the one making most of the attacks lately even if you try to hide behind replying to others posts. rotflmbo!!!!! its really funny tom that you and theguy complained i was always attacking so i quit. and now your doing it to me and to max. not much of a mechanic are you after all. . . . . and yet far more than you seem to be sometimes. really im not the one giving useless advice to a novice mechanic. sure you are like when you suggested she use a compression guage to determine what was leaking especially after she already performed that test to get the readings. my advice simply allowed her to determine why #5 had such poor compression and there was nothing useless about it. your test tom from talks with rach via email arent practical for her to do and i tried to tell you that.i wasnt correcting or slamming you at all. but you took offense anyway so you screwed up tom. you assumed inccorectly. now shove it where the sun dont shine. but the test will confirm it and that is the whole purpose of doing this to see where the air is leaking from. if a wet cranking test shows no improvement then the head needs to be pulled anyway so why drag out all that paraphenalia just to have to put it all back up why since she claimed this to be a throw away motor if the problem is just a burned valve who cares. obviously not you thats for certain. you are correct i dont. why should i if she doesnt. its only a motor that she intended to dump anyway not someones life or even only means of transportation. be honest tom the only one you care about at all is yourself. let it run that way until she gets rid of it. if the problem proves to be something else she may not want to depend on it as it may completely fail and get her stuck. and you completely missed or ignored her post about not swapping engines now and the one about the location of the truck. trucks can be towed if needed and unless she swaps that one out she will have to rebuild it. did you see the post about digging out snow to pull an engine that was this truck tom. and intelligence / social interaction isnt your thing among others including reading. and this from the one who uses the excuse of not being politically correct as a defense for treating others like crap. its not an excuse tom im not politically correct and you

From : tbone

but you still either need someone else and still risk being shocked. do you really think the rubber handles on a conventional pair of pliers will hold back 20000 volts. quit buying your tools out of the $1 bin at the drugstore tom. i dont buy cheep tools budd. at best they will cause even more damage to what you are working on and at worst they can seriously injure you while doing it. if you knew even half of what you claim to you would know that the rubber grips on most pliers were not put there with insulation from electricity in mind and are not good insulators at all. really then why are the vinyl rubber grips on my craftman tools given a insulation rating by the manufacturer western forge and by craftsman perhaps because that was the intent of the rubber coating on that set of pliers. i did say most not all. why have i been able to use those insulated tools in handling 110 220 and 440 volt live wires as a millwright how come i can hold a plug wire on a capacitor discharge ignition by the boot or the wire insulation and check for spark anyone who works on live wire unless it is absolutely necessary is an idiot period and a millwright does not have to. i have to work in live boxes on occasion but not on live wires. while i also have linesman pliers that are insulation rated most of my others are not probably because the rubber is more porus to prevent them from becomming slippery when exposed to greese and oil which would also reduce their insulating ability by a considerable amount. whats the voltage rating for a single layer 3 mil of vinyl electrical tape . . . go ahead cheat and look on the package id rather you get this one right for your own safety. did you wrap your handles in vinyl electrical tape and if not what is your point since you really dont have a clue when it comes to electrical circuits as made clear by your voltage drop reduction when current increases statement completely the opposite of fact you really should just shut up here. you do know that something like 1 to 2 percent of the worlds population are hypersensitive to electrical shock and cant touch an ignition system at all when the engine is running dont you i didnt know the percentages but since i am one of them... perhaps that is why i use other methods to check for spark. btw i also have a very old pair of slip joint pliers that belonged to my step-dad with no insulation. the knurled grip handles dont slip as bad as the rubber handles when greasy. that would be because the rubber on those handles were intended for insulation not better grip like most others are. -- blabber snipped -- does she already have a remote start button does she know how to hook it up is the insulation on that wire still good if she is too far away from the metal it will arc back to her anyway. the timing light is the easiest way to do it and requires no help from anyone and none of your crap here says anything different. it appears that you are the one that just posts to argue. no tom that would only be you since youve posted your assaults directed toward me on a bunch of other replies and this is only the second reply to you in a month or better from me. sorry budd but you really are standing on thin ice here. you are the one making most of the attacks lately even if you try to hide behind replying to others posts. rotflmbo!!!!! its really funny tom that you and theguy complained i was always attacking so i quit. and now your doing it to me and to max. really when did that happen. it sure didnt in this thread or the way you are treating the others in caravan thread. speaking of theguy could you be any more twofaced. when he took the other side in the political discussions he was your new best friend but the minute that crap ended suddenly he was the enemy again. you make it clear where your true motivation lies. not much of a mechanic are you after all. . . . . and yet far more than you seem to be sometimes. really im not the one giving useless advice to a novice mechanic. sure you are like when you suggested she use a compression guage to determine what was leaking especially after she already performed that test to get the readings. my advice simply allowed her to determine why #5 had such poor compression and there was nothing useless about it. your test tom from talks with rach via email arent practical for her to do and i tried to tell you that.i wasnt correcting or slamming you at all. but you took offense anyway so you screwed up tom. you assumed inccorectly. sorry budd but calling it useless information is nothing more than slamming and if you dont realise this then you really are an idiot. now shove it where the sun dont shine. how immature. but the test will confirm it and that is the whole purpose of doing this to see where the ai

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

but you still either need someone else and still risk being shocked. do you really think the rubber handles on a conventional pair of pliers will hold back 20000 volts. quit buying your tools out of the $1 bin at the drugstore tom. i dont buy cheep tools budd. at best they will cause even more damage to what you are working on and at worst they can seriously injure you while doing it. if you knew even half of what you claim to you would know that the rubber grips on most pliers were not put there with insulation from electricity in mind and are not good insulators at all. really then why are the vinyl rubber grips on my craftman tools given a insulation rating by the manufacturer western forge and by craftsman perhaps because that was the intent of the rubber coating on that set of pliers. i did say most not all. rotflmbo!!!!! right tom you know all the secrets of craftsman western forge rigid channelock proto snap-on and so on. . . . you really should do some research. why have i been able to use those insulated tools in handling 110 220 and 440 volt live wires as a millwright how come i can hold a plug wire on a capacitor discharge ignition by the boot or the wire insulation and check for spark anyone who works on live wire unless it is absolutely necessary is an idiot period and a millwright does not have to. ah you were there were you shows how little you know of reality. i have to work in live boxes on occasion but not on live wires. what makes a box live and the wires inside them not live tom while i also have linesman pliers that are insulation rated most of my others are not probably because the rubber is more porus to prevent them from becomming slippery when exposed to greese and oil which would also reduce their insulating ability by a considerable amount. aha . . .you bought non-rated tools deliberately so most tools are not rated. i see your reasoning now. whats the voltage rating for a single layer 3 mil of vinyl electrical tape . . . go ahead cheat and look on the package id rather you get this one right for your own safety. did you wrap your handles in vinyl electrical tape and if not what is your point since you really dont have a clue when it comes to electrical circuits as made clear by your voltage drop reduction when current increases statement completely the opposite of fact you really should just shut up here. so you dont know after all. it should be you shutting up if youre dumb enough to work with non-rated tools on any wire live or not. a friend of mine was knocked off a press when a set-up man turned the juice back on after removing the safety tag. the next day we were issued padlocks. btw industry standard for 3 mil vinyl electrical tape is 15000 volts / layer. you do know that something like 1 to 2 percent of the worlds population are hypersensitive to electrical shock and cant touch an ignition system at all when the engine is running dont you i didnt know the percentages but since i am one of them... perhaps that is why i use other methods to check for spark. then dont assume everyone has to do it your way. you are the exception to the norm not the norm. btw i also have a very old pair of slip joint pliers that belonged to my step-dad with no insulation. the knurled grip handles dont slip as bad as the rubber handles when greasy. that would be because the rubber on those handles were intended for insulation not better grip like most others are. here again you make assumptions based on your choisce of tools. none of my pliers except ones for non electrical use are un-rated but thats because i worked with high voltages for ten years. -- blabber snipped -- --fact reinserted-- now to make sure you understand that i do know the effects of ignition sparks i test the point type ignition briggs kohler tecumseh coils by holding the plug lead close to ground and briefly connecting a 1.5 volt flashlight battery across the primary wires. the resultant spark is only about 3000 volts but if i get a spark at all the coil is good. occasionally i get bit by them. i put this in tom not just for you but for anyone reading the post. if the plug lead is held in some safe manner with a gap of 3/16 or less it is a good way to test a lawn mower coil. does she already have a remote start button does she know how to hook it up is the insulation on that wire still good if she is too far away from the metal it will arc back to her anyway. the timing light is the easiest way to do it and requires no help from anyone and none of your crap here says anything different. it appears that you are the one that just posts to argue. no tom that would only be you since youve posted your assaults directed toward me on a bunch of other replies and this is only the second reply to you in a month or better from me. s

From : tbone

perhaps because that was the intent of the rubber coating on that set of pliers. i did say most not all. rotflmbo!!!!! right tom you know all the secrets of craftsman western forge rigid channelock proto snap-on and so on. . . . nope and neither do you. you really should do some research. pkb there budd pkb. why have i been able to use those insulated tools in handling 110 220 and 440 volt live wires as a millwright how come i can hold a plug wire on a capacitor discharge ignition by the boot or the wire insulation and check for spark anyone who works on live wire unless it is absolutely necessary is an idiot period and a millwright does not have to. ah you were there were you nope and i didnt have to be and the fact that you didnt come up with one of your fantastic stories shows you have no valid reason either that is if you did it at all. shows how little you know of reality. no it demonstraites you ignorance and stupidity. but please prove me wrong and show me exactly why you needed to do it. i have to work in live boxes on occasion but not on live wires. what makes a box live and the wires inside them not live tom you are kidding right but just in case your not if there is voltage being applied to the buss bars the box is hot but until the wires are actually connected to an activated breaker or directly to the buss they are not. when you pull new lines to the box they are not connected to anything and by definition are not live. while i also have linesman pliers that are insulation rated most of my others are not probably because the rubber is more porus to prevent them from becomming slippery when exposed to greese and oil which would also reduce their insulating ability by a considerable amount. aha . . .you bought non-rated tools deliberately so most tools are not rated. i see your reasoning now. no i bought tools designed for their purpose and many of my pliers have rubber covers on their handles and are clearly labled that their grips are not designed for electrical protection but then again they dont get slippery when they get dirty either. my linesman pliers otoh have smooth grips and do get slippery when exposed to greese or wire lube. whats the voltage rating for a single layer 3 mil of vinyl electrical tape . . . go ahead cheat and look on the package id rather you get this one right for your own safety. did you wrap your handles in vinyl electrical tape and if not what is your point since you really dont have a clue when it comes to electrical circuits as made clear by your voltage drop reduction when current increases statement completely the opposite of fact you really should just shut up here. so you dont know after all. it should be you shutting up if youre dumb enough to work with non-rated tools on any wire live or not. a friend of mine was knocked off a press when a set-up man turned the juice back on after removing the safety tag. the next day we were issued padlocks. i have pliers and cutters that are rated for electrical use but i dont normally use them on my vehicles. i bet your friend would have been knocked on his ass anyway because he was probably touching things with his bare hands which is expected when the power is shut down. he should have used a padlock anyway and the one who removed the tag should have been fired. btw industry standard for 3 mil vinyl electrical tape is 15000 volts / layer. and the point is you do know that something like 1 to 2 percent of the worlds population are hypersensitive to electrical shock and cant touch an ignition system at all when the engine is running dont you i didnt know the percentages but since i am one of them... perhaps that is why i use other methods to check for spark. then dont assume everyone has to do it your way. you are the exception to the norm not the norm. it is better to assume on the side of safety rather than get someone hurt. and you say that i dont care about anyone but myself. btw i also have a very old pair of slip joint pliers that belonged to my step-dad with no insulation. the knurled grip handles dont slip as bad as the rubber handles when greasy. that would be because the rubber on those handles were intended for insulation not better grip like most others are. here again you make assumptions based on your choisce of tools. none of my pliers except ones for non electrical use are un-rated but thats because i worked with high voltages for ten years. you have done a lot of jobs and they all seem to be between 5 and 10 years. you must be well over 100 by now. -- blabber snipped -- --fact reinserted-- now to make sure you understand that i do know the effects of ignition sparks i test the point type ignition briggs kohler tecumseh coils by holding the plug lead close to ground and briefly connecting a 1.5 volt flas

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

tbone wrote hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold that could be as simple as a bad connection on the coil bad splice in the ignition lines failing ballast or a failing ignition module. i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold that sounds like a fuel problem but could still be the ignition. no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool even if the ignition cuts out you still will not get a flooding smell. do you have a timing light if so connect it when the engine dies and and see if it fires off while cranking. if not then you most likely have an ignition problem. actually a dwell meter would work better for this but they are getting hard to find with todays electronic ignitions that dont need them. i see what you mean about getting a dwell meter -- princess auto -- my favorite store has 78 pages of hand tools and not one dwell meter. i will check napa though since i am about to leave to go there i do have a timing light so ill try this test -- thank you for the tip even pulling the coil wire out of the distributor and holding it a 1/4 from the block will tell you if you have spark. dwell meters are hard to find since the advent of electronic ignitions . . but i have a very old one. bg that would require someone else cranking the engine and the risk of being shocked. most timing lights have long enough wires to bring it into the cab with you and hold the trigger while cranking and if not a simple rubber band will hold the trigger and you can lay it on the air cleaner where you can see the lens while cranking and no risk of shock. rotflmbo!!!! gee tom havent you the cerebral cellular matter to think of 1 holdng it by the insulating boot 2 holding it with a pair of insulated handle pliers 3 using a remote starter button 4 shorting the solenoid relay with a screwdriver 5 having a friend or loved one crank the engine but you still either need someone else and still risk being shocked. do you really think the rubber handles on a conventional pair of pliers will hold back 20000 volts. quit buying your tools out of the $1 bin at the drugstore tom. does she already have a remote start button does she know how to hook it up is the insulation on that wire still good if she is too far away from the metal it will arc back to her anyway. the timing light is the easiest way to do it and requires no help from anyone and none of your crap here says anything different. it appears that you are the one that just posts to argue. no tom that would only be you since youve posted your assaults directed toward me on a bunch of other replies and this is only the second reply to you in a month or better from me. not much of a mechanic are you after all. . . . . and yet far more than you seem to be sometimes. really im not the one giving useless advice to a novice mechanic. i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 that is not good. you may have a real problem with #5. do you have a compressor if so they make a fitting for it to connect your compressor to t

From : rachel easson

tbone wrote that is not good. you may have a real problem with #5. do you have a compressor if so they make a fitting for it to connect your compressor to the cylinder and is used to hold your valves in place with air pressure to allow you to replace the seals and / or springs without removing the head. first using compressed air to hold the valves in place is a risky affair. use a length of cheap clothesline inserted in the plug hole and run the piston up against it to hold the valves closed. safer and easier than hoping the air prssure doesnt bleed past the rings too fast..... are you really this desperate max. who the hell is telling her to replace either seals or springs. i was explainig the purpose of the tool so in case she wants to get one she can tell the salesman what it is used for since i dont remember its name. snip thats ok -- when i explained what i wanted he knew right away. i almost always get help from the manager -- he is best at reading my mind - my late hubby always ordered his parts for the company he worked for for 18 years -- the biggest used parts place in gatineau several acres and multimillion -- he was very honest and well liked -- they all take care of me like family -- his company and his contacts. i am very lucky. ....and since i have to ask for parts in english when i can tell him what its for he knows what i mean chuckle if i knew the name of the part it probably wouldnt help either grn rach .

From : rachel easson

rachel easson wrote hi guys this truck is possessed it is a mostly 82-86 d150 225 sl6 with some parts that are not even close to what goes 1/2 a block then dies wont restart until cold i bought it last year and worked on it last summer -- after several small things set idle etc. was running fine last summer missing a bit it idles fine and i leave it to warm up until it reaches curb idle sometimes it stalls on idle but not usually and can usually be restarted but once it goes on a test run it dies after a few hundred feet then will not restart until cold no smell of flooding when it dies so not a fuel too rich problem the problem has been getting progressively worse and worse -- to start with it would drive for about 20 minutes before dying then same thing -- would not start until cool i am going to trace the wiring from the coil capacitor to distributor tomorrow by tearing up the tape but i have had some help from my new boyfriend -- between us both this is all the stuff we have changed so far -- if it says used it was working on the other 86 d150 before i stole the part -- checked all vacuum hoses and checked for leaks -- checked rad thermostat -- checked grounds -- complete tuneup with new rebuilt distributor cap rotor wires plugs new coil plugs were very carbonated -- blew out gas lines with compressor -- seemed to work for a while but not second or third time -- replaced fuel pump fuel filter -- made sure tank always 1/2 full in case of rust in tank -- replaced carb holley 6145 1bbl adjusted carb curb and fast idle put 1/2 bottle of carb cleaner directly into carb and another 1 1/2 bottles into gas tank -- replaced egr valve breather cap pcv valve -- replaced choke assemblyused -- replaced air filter -- complete air breather assembly used -- replaced computer used -- replaced voltage regulator -- checked compression cylinder 1 145 cylinder 2 147 cylinder 3 145 cylinder 4 145 cylinder 5 55 cylinder 6 147 -- adjusted timing to 18 degrees -- +/- 2 degrees set curb idle to 825-875 about 75 high due to rough idle -- weak no.5 set fast idle to 1700 -- one gas line was changed last fall when it passed a quebec safety so since the brakes power steering new tires excellent body lights etc. all done it is almost like new -- will swap motor with my other d150 but need to get it running -- and stay running first -- it is supposed to be my daily driver and i am still driving my brothers spare car any ideas will be greatly appreciated rach hi! great -- i complied the thread as some of you know and the engine advice will be very helpful now and in future. it is now running. i did get some help from my new boyfriend who shares renovation skills with me and used to do some mechanics 25 years ago or so. being prepared helped a lot. we had balmy 14 degree celcuis temperatures this afternoon so i payed him to take the afternoon off to help. turns out that one of the first things i changed egr valve had a lot to do with it. the egr solenoid was working back last fall when checked but after checking the charcoal cylinder then checking pressure again he noticed the vacuum to the carb was almost non existent -- seems that although the egr valve was good earlier its connections were getting more and more corroded -- turned out to be a poor electrical connection from the egr solenoid to the egr valve. there may have been other contributing factors resolved during the process of replacing almost everything else... now i am going to get the other 1986 safetied asap then sell this one after taking off the good parts. thank you again all for your help. i could not have done this without you and would probably given up hope. rach p.s i have just updated the web page accordingly and leave it there in case anyone else needs similar help. .