84 Ramcharger ignition (Strange one)

From : hemipower

Q: these units are usually so rock solid that this one has me stumped. back ground this is a plow truck that sat all summer i fired it up to start getting it ready for winter. there was a horrible noise that i found to be the trans dust guard being hit by a converter bolt. i removed teh guard and went to restart the truck with no go. what the heck switched out the control module and ballast resistor. checked the ohms on the pick up and all seemed fine. still no start. then for some reason it finally fired and ran and i restarted it a few more times. ok. remove starter again to replace the now straightened dust cover and again no start. one strange thing i noticed is that after cranking with no start if i turn the key off fast i get a bump from the engine and a puff of smoke from the carb as if i had ign. this usually is a sign of a ballast resistor but no good. any suggestions .

Replies:

From : hemipower

budd cochran sez the rings have to able to adjust for the temperature changes an engine goes thru as it runs. with stuck rings they cant move to follow the bore as the diameter changes so cold they fit ok hot they fit too tight. ill bet it cranks real slow and runs the battery down fast when you try to restart hot. well it didnt seem to be cranking too too slow. i keep good batteries in it so it actually holds up fairly long. how about getting on the highway and blowing out the proverbial carbon its probably too late for that to help. once an engine gets to this point its time for a rebuild. meanwhile i should slap a spare coil on it just for shits and grins. wont hurt or help got that right no improvement. would the stupid thing keep running if i dont shut it off lol. i can imagine a cylinder full of marvel mystery oil and a good long run down the high way. yeeehaaaaa but you might consider getting a running engine from a wrecking yard and use it while you rebuil this one or rebuild the junkyard engine and wap it in. heck man. this is a plow truck. it could snow any day now. let alone finding a good running 360. damn with modern fuel injected engines its almost a thing of the past to have rings seize up because of carbon buildup but as long as there is a carburetor on an engine any engine it will always be possible. budd -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : hemipower

neil nelson nonelson@sbcglobal.net date 10/26/03 650 pm eastern standard time message-id nonelson-ce014c.17522926102003@svr26..prodigy.com hemipower@aol.com hemipower wrote these units are usually so rock solid that this one has me stumped. back ground this is a plow truck that sat all summer i fired it up to start getting it ready for winter. there was a horrible noise that i found to be the trans dust guard being hit by a converter bolt. i removed teh guard and went to restart the truck with no go. what the heck switched out the control module and ballast resistor. checked the ohms on the pick up and all seemed fine. still no start. then for some reason it finally fired and ran and i restarted it a few more times. ok. remove starter again to replace the now straightened dust cover and again no start. one strange thing i noticed is that after cranking with no start if i turn the key off fast i get a bump from the engine and a puff of smoke from the carb as if i had ign. this usually is a sign of a ballast resistor but no good. any suggestions went out today and purchased a new ign relay and decided to give it a try. lo and behold it fires. let it warm up until it can idle smoothly bout ten minutes. checked a couple of wires by gently moving them from side to side hoping it might quit. no way. decide to turn it off and restart and son of a gun it is dead. do you have voltage at coil + when its malfunctioning now being the perfect time to test i see that im getting about 7v on the + of the coil and 12v at the battery. that should be about right huh like you say the ballast comes in on the run position. and the ballast cuts the voltage in half. and now that ive gone a couple of days and it appears to be starting cold and not restarting might once warm might point to the coil. your thoughts the ballast is bypassed during cranking iirc the bypass on trucks is done at the starter relay. -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : hemipower

budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net date 10/27/03 332 pm eastern standard time message-id lhfnb.4967$di2.4482@01.roc.ny when my 318 started doing that the rings were carboned up to the pistons. did it see a lot of driving that did not warm the engine up any carb probs last winter oh man dude youre freaking me out. it was having carb problems at the end of last year but it seemed off and on. like the needle valve would stick and fuel would be bubbling over the vent tube and stuff and i had to keep the revs up until. i could tap the carb body with a hammer. then all was well again. now in fact it did this a little at the end of the previous t year as well. i was hoping i was starting early enough this year and have the dough this year to score a new one. could pouring something down the bores or something help to break em loose i do need to change the oil and plugs. how come it will keep running until i shut it off and why does it start cold how about getting on the highway and blowing out the proverbial carbon meanwhile i should slap a spare coil on it just for shits and grins. this piston thing seems too weird. not that i dont believe you. just never heard of it. let me know what you think -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : elliott dozierbudd cochran

lol lol lol lol lol btw i forgot to take those apples home. if ya still got em when ytou head up myt way to pick up the tranny please bring em. 2nd btw i got the exhaust on and its great! on 27 oct 2003 165939 gmt mopar440@aol.comedy.biz redneck tookover hell wrote trying to find non existent adjusting nuts should keep him busy for quite some time .

From : hemipower

budd cochran sez budd cochran sez the rings have to able to adjust for the temperature changes an engine goes thru as it runs. with stuck rings they cant move to follow the bore as the diameter changes so cold they fit ok hot they fit too tight. ill bet it cranks real slow and runs the battery down fast when you try to restart hot. well it didnt seem to be cranking too too slow. i keep good batteries in it so it actually holds up fairly long. if youre running big and or multiple batteries then cranking may not be affected much but the key is the hot no start with fuel and spark available. nope just a single batt but it is new and big. lol try retarding the timing to tdc and see if it starts hot but lacks power. i can do that. how about getting on the highway and blowing out the proverbial carbon its probably too late for that to help. once an engine gets to this point its time for a rebuild. meanwhile i should slap a spare coil on it just for shits and grins. wont hurt or help got that right no improvement. more proof it isnt ignition related. would the stupid thing keep running if i dont shut it off lol. i can imagine a cylinder full of marvel mystery oil and a good long run down the high way. yeeehaaaaa its youre truck but i would not try it. stuck rings will score cylinders and then youre looking at overboring oversize poistons and rings on top of just a normal overhaul cost. this engine is in its third truck. the salt they use really tear up these trucks not to mention i just buy em old because they will be whooped on all winter and sliding into stuff. im just now experimenting with that por-15 in hopes of slowing the rust down a little bit. and marvel oil will just add to the carbon. but you might consider getting a running engine from a wrecking yard and use it while you rebuil this one or rebuild the junkyard engine and wap it in. i have a couple sitting here one 360 needs a cam and the other is a 318 and was given to me it is supposed to run but man i was not ready for this. i also wanted to throw on some new front springs among a few other improvements. ive also had a strange whirring noise coming from what i think is the transfer case. i was just getting the truck ready to go have my tranny man have a hear. it has been doing that since i got it three years ago. i just didnt want to push my luck. and the spare truck which may turn into the main truck needs a tranny. heck man. this is a plow truck. it could snow any day now. let alone finding a good running 360. damn its your choice. you asked for suggestions as to what was the possible problem. i gave my opinion. do with it as you choose. no i hear ya budd dont get me wrong i know you have been around a while and i respect your opinion and i definitely appreciate the time you are taking to educate me. im just throwing things out to see what might stick. with modern fuel injected engines its almost a thing of the past to have rings seize up because of carbon buildup but as long as there is a carburetor on an engine any engine it will always be possible. budd how about a day or two soaking in marvel mystery oil throw in some new plugs getting it real hot and then start dribbling water down the carb for a good old steam clean -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : budd cochranhemipower

when my 318 started doing that the rings were carboned up to the pistons. did it see a lot of driving that did not warm the engine up any carb probs last winter i ended up overhauling the engine to fix it. -- budd cochran neil nelson nonelson@sbcglobal.net date 10/26/03 650 pm eastern standard time message-id nonelson-ce014c.17522926102003@svr26..prodigy.com hemipower@aol.com hemipower wrote these units are usually so rock solid that this one has me stumped. back ground this is a plow truck that sat all summer i fired it up to start getting it ready for winter. there was a horrible noise that i found to be the trans dust guard being hit by a converter bolt. i removed teh guard and went to restart the truck with no go. what the heck switched out the control module and ballast resistor. checked the ohms on the pick up and all seemed fine. still no start. then for some reason it finally fired and ran and i restarted it a few more times. ok. remove starter again to replace the now straightened dust cover and again no start. one strange thing i noticed is that after cranking with no start if i turn the key off fast i get a bump from the engine and a puff of smoke from the carb as if i had ign. this usually is a sign of a ballast resistor but no good. any suggestions went out today and purchased a new ign relay and decided to give it a try. lo and behold it fires. let it warm up until it can idle smoothly bout ten minutes. checked a couple of wires by gently moving them from side to side hoping it might quit. no way. decide to turn it off and restart and son of a gun it is dead. do you have voltage at coil + when its malfunctioning now being the perfect time to test i see that im getting about 7v on the + of the coil and 12v at the battery. that should be about right huh like you say the ballast comes in on the run position. and the ballast cuts the voltage in half. and now that ive gone a couple of days and it appears to be starting cold and not restarting might once warm might point to the coil. your thoughts the ballast is bypassed during cranking iirc the bypass on trucks is done at the starter relay. -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : budd cochran

budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net date 10/27/03 332 pm eastern standard time message-id lhfnb.4967$di2.4482@01.roc.ny when my 318 started doing that the rings were carboned up to the pistons. did it see a lot of driving that did not warm the engine up any carb probs last winter oh man dude youre freaking me out. sorry didnt mean to do that. it was having carb problems at the end of last year but it seemed off and on. like the needle valve would stick and fuel would be bubbling over the vent tube and stuff and i had to keep the revs up until. i could tap the carb body with a hammer. then all was well again. uh-oh . . . . . now in fact it did this a little at the end of the previous t year as well. i was hoping i was starting early enough this year and have the dough this year to score a new one. usually all you need is to rebuild the carb when these things happen if you catch it in time. could pouring something down the bores or something help to break em loose not that i know of. the carbon is well below the tops of the pistons packed tight in the ring grooves. i do need to change the oil and plugs. always a good idea but im afraid it wont help the problem. how come it will keep running until i shut it off and why does it start cold the rings have to able to adjust for the temperature changes an engine goes thru as it runs. with stuck rings they cant move to follow the bore as the diameter changes so cold they fit ok hot they fit too tight. ill bet it cranks real slow and runs the battery down fast when you try to restart hot. how about getting on the highway and blowing out the proverbial carbon its probably too late for that to help. once an engine gets to this point its time for a rebuild. meanwhile i should slap a spare coil on it just for shits and grins. wont hurt or help but you might consider getting a running engine from a wrecking yard and use it while you rebuil this one or rebuild the junkyard engine and wap it in. this piston thing seems too weird. not that i dont believe you. just never heard of it. let me know what you think -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain with modern fuel injected engines its almost a thing of the past to have rings seize up because of carbon buildup but as long as there is a carburetor on an engine any engine it will always be possible. budd .

From : tbone

i doubt that hung rings have anything to do with it. if that were the problem you would see noticeable changes as it warmed up while it was running such as seizing. are you sure that you are always getting fuel or too much fuel did you try connecting a timing light to it when it refuses to start that will tell you if you still have spark and where the timing is. it is always better to check the obvious before beginning random engine rebuilds. the carb is also affected by heat and you claim that yours is already giving you problems i would look there first. perhaps your float is sinking and causing a warm engine flood condition. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving budd cochran sez the rings have to able to adjust for the temperature changes an engine goes thru as it runs. with stuck rings they cant move to follow the bore as the diameter changes so cold they fit ok hot they fit too tight. ill bet it cranks real slow and runs the battery down fast when you try to restart hot. well it didnt seem to be cranking too too slow. i keep good batteries in it so it actually holds up fairly long. how about getting on the highway and blowing out the proverbial carbon its probably too late for that to help. once an engine gets to this point its time for a rebuild. meanwhile i should slap a spare coil on it just for shits and grins. wont hurt or help got that right no improvement. would the stupid thing keep running if i dont shut it off lol. i can imagine a cylinder full of marvel mystery oil and a good long run down the high way. yeeehaaaaa but you might consider getting a running engine from a wrecking yard and use it while you rebuil this one or rebuild the junkyard engine and wap it in. heck man. this is a plow truck. it could snow any day now. let alone finding a good running 360. damn with modern fuel injected engines its almost a thing of the past to have rings seize up because of carbon buildup but as long as there is a carburetor on an engine any engine it will always be possible. budd -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : hemipowerhemipower

tbone sez i doubt that hung rings have anything to do with it. i can only hope. i dont know which is why im here polling the collective knowledge. if that were the problem you would see noticeable changes as it warmed up while it was running such as seizing. yeah its weird. it warms up and runs great and idles fine. no noises what so ever. are you sure that you are always getting fuel or too much fuel this could also be a possibility. i dont think its getting too much gas to little maybe. but i would think if that was the case when i squirt some in it should start right up and run for a second or two. i thought this was going to be a good year. i have the extra coin to get carbs regulators or anything else it needed. i certainly did not think i would be looking at a new motor. did you try connecting a timing light to it when it refuses to start no not yet but can do. that will tell you if you still have spark and where the timing is. it is always better to check the obvious before beginning random engine rebuilds. i usually try to subscribe to that approach myself. but i guess i cant buy my head in the stand if the evidence is right there in front of me. the carb is also affected by heat and you claim that yours is already giving you problems i would look there first. perhaps your float is sinking and causing a warm engine flood condition. that is a possibility. ill have to dig around and see what i have or score a junk yard piece. i just hate throwing money at something that is something else. i like to pride myself on not being just a parts changer guessing until something work. lol thats why i dont mind running any test someone might suggest. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving budd cochran sez the rings have to able to adjust for the temperature changes an engine goes thru as it runs. with stuck rings they cant move to follow the bore as the diameter changes so cold they fit ok hot they fit too tight. ill bet it cranks real slow and runs the battery down fast when you try to restart hot. well it didnt seem to be cranking too too slow. i keep good batteries in it so it actually holds up fairly long. how about getting on the highway and blowing out the proverbial carbon its probably too late for that to help. once an engine gets to this point its time for a rebuild. meanwhile i should slap a spare coil on it just for shits and grins. wont hurt or help got that right no improvement. would the stupid thing keep running if i dont shut it off lol. i can imagine a cylinder full of marvel mystery oil and a good long run down the high way. yeeehaaaaa but you might consider getting a running engine from a wrecking yard and use it while you rebuil this one or rebuild the junkyard engine and wap it in. heck man. this is a plow truck. it could snow any day now. let alone finding a good running 360. damn with modern fuel injected engines its almost a thing of the past to have rings seize up because of carbon buildup but as long as there is a carburetor on an engine any engine it will always be possible. budd -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : daguy

on fri 31 oct 2003 004346 -0600 dale yonz dyonz@hotmail.com wrote daguy daguy@uo.com wrote on thu 30 oct 2003 185001 gmt budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net wrote that may be stretching the facts just a tad budd. i dont think so. im pretty certain theres far more lurkers and occasional posters than you think there is. so how do you count lurkers i will leave that to you. you are an expert at this type of thing. and you are still an expert at being a shit disturber yonzie a shit disturber hmmm. i do disturb that total idiot budd so you may be right. as for being an expert well thanks but you make me blush. .

From : hemipower

tbone sez like i said in my first post on this if you would have used your timing light when it didnt start you would have seen that it was an ignition problem. yeah that was a good tip. if i wanted to play around and experiment with this trick how can i keep the truck from starting but while at the same using my t-light to check for and see the spark flash i guess i could unhook my electric fuel pump and run the bowl dry. is there any other way you know of short of stuffing a rag into the carb to block the fuel flow i cant think of any other way either. do you have a carb or is your engine throttle body injected it is a carb. -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : neil nelson

hemipower@aol.com hemipower wrote these units are usually so rock solid that this one has me stumped. back ground this is a plow truck that sat all summer i fired it up to start getting it ready for winter. there was a horrible noise that i found to be the trans dust guard being hit by a converter bolt. i removed teh guard and went to restart the truck with no go. what the heck switched out the control module and ballast resistor. checked the ohms on the pick up and all seemed fine. still no start. then for some reason it finally fired and ran and i restarted it a few more times. ok. remove starter again to replace the now straightened dust cover and again no start. one strange thing i noticed is that after cranking with no start if i turn the key off fast i get a bump from the engine and a puff of smoke from the carb as if i had ign. this usually is a sign of a ballast resistor but no good. any suggestions do you have voltage at coil + when its malfunctioning the ballast is bypassed during cranking iirc the bypass on trucks is done at the starter relay. .

From : budd cochran

you missed the clue. i did!!!! yep. while a module can fail as you say when hot the puff of smoke and bump he gets from the quick on/off switch action when the engine is hot tells you the module is fine. that is incorrect. all that this shows is that the module is supplying voltage to the coil when the ignition is in the run position but that is only 1/3 of what is needed. it also needs to supply voltage during cranking and modulate that voltage to the coil to caiuse a spark. just because the module is sending voltage to the coil it doesnt mean that it is responding to the pickup coil when hot. the easiest way to prove the ignition is functional during cranking is with a timing light. they work just as well during cranking as they do when the engine is running and no flash means no ignition. you can also use it to make sure that the firing isnt just random scatter. only 1/3 the voltage im looking at my chrysler electronic ignition repair manual and it says youre incorrect. the three voltage checks done with the ignition switch on should read within one volt +/- of battery voltage. are you sure youre working on the right ignition system therefore the problem lay elsewhere. possibly but what you just described does not confirm or prove that. the main symptoms of stuck rings still are not here. yes they are. you forget i experienced them personally. youve never had one sink while driving have you nope. and now with the exception of the magnum all of my vehicles are fuel injected so i should never have to worry about that. figures. they dont have to hit bottom to screw up a carb mixture. i know that this is my whole point. but thats not what you said. they will sink a lot faster on a running engine than on a carb sitting on a workbench. agreed. as for the brass and plastic floats how far they sink depends where the leak forms. bull. a brass float has a minimum of positive boyancy in a liquid of lower viscosity than water. why so the liquid helps stabilize the float and reduce flooding tendencies caused by vibration. huh that makes no sense at all. the whole purpose of the float is to control the inlet valve in the fuel bowl so how exactly is the liquid going to stabilize the float in a way that will prevent flooding and why would it need to the float acts like a movable baffle by taking up a high percentage of the bowl volume. the smaller fuel mass moves less forcefully. is the float going to sink when vibrated worse. it can break off. until indy cars went to fuel injection they used floatless carbs for the offy/meyer/drake engines because of the vibration would break off orr damage convetional floats and the constant fuel flow thru the bowl kept the alcohol fuel fresher for better performance. unless it was improperly set up in the first place or sinking vibration and angle should have no effect. then why did the automobile industry waste the money to machine the carb pads on intake manifolds so the carbs were very close to level when installed why did carburetor manufacturers go to rubber tips on the needle valves when better filtering had practically eliminated debris in fuel hey could that be why his vehicle doesnt want to start bty the buoyancy of any float is determined by displacement vs. mass. since all three would be the about the same size for a given application the lightest one has the most buoyancy and since there is no significant weight difference between the brass plastic or foam floats... bull. you should have taken a couple physics courses in college. while you got part of your basic premise that boyancy is determined by displacement correct the rest is a joke right each float type is designed to work at a specific displacement in the fuel being used. foams generally float higher in gasoline but the most precise metering control is given by the good old brass floats which float almost submerged. as for duarbility well the carb on my truck has a set of brass floats from a 1972 engine in it. plastic floats sometimes crack because of mtbe in the fuel. foam floats will only absorb more fuel and sink again once the protective coating is gone. while true what does this have to do with the discussion and btw i didnt say that the cause of his problems was due to a sinking float only that it is a possible problem. then why did you answer it. it was info for hemipower. they can partially sink and i have seen it happen. really and how much of the float was above the fuel level 1/2 1/4 less than an 1/8 of an inch the only high floating floats ive ever seen were foam not brass or hollow plastic and even then 75% or more was under the level of the gas when new. wtf does this have to do with anything if the float loses some buoyancy then the fuel level will need to be higher for the float to supply the needed pressure t

From : budd cochran

i think i may have heard that myself. it may have been on a tractor pulling page. even they were claiming the dodge brain is the best and were showing how to hook it up to various other components. yep. its just an excellently made transistor switch. im going to experiment with an old but serviceable one i have to see if it can work with a set of points. budd .

From : hemipower

budd cochran sez budd cochransez a brass float has a minimum of positive boyancy in a liquid of lower viscosity than water. please rephrase this in laymens terms. no problem i just wrote that for tom. what it says is the float will not have a lot of bouyancy because it needs to be deep in the fuel to reduvce the effects of vibration. generally brass and plastic floats will only have about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch above the fuel level. ok gotcha. i see it now. i see nothing wrong with that. i built my first bicycle i built my second. including lacing a wheel one skill i still intend to learn. i have an antique harley that runs laced wheels that will eventually need to be redone. out a pile of parts in the basement of a house i lived with my folks. i have a cold chisel out in my shop thats 5 shorter than when my step-dad bought it in 1947. ive reforged and retempered the cutting edge 7 times now and its almost ready for another one. i still have my great-grandfathers first hammer. my grandfather replaced the handle back in the 60s and i just recently replaced the head. i love that old tool. sorry budd i just couldnt resist. lol budd -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : budd cochran

budd cochransez a brass float has a minimum of positive boyancy in a liquid of lower viscosity than water. please rephrase this in laymens terms. no problem i just wrote that for tom. what it says is the float will not have a lot of bouyancy because it needs to be deep in the fuel to reduvce the effects of vibration. generally brass and plastic floats will only have about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch above the fuel level. why so the liquid helps stabilize the float and reduce flooding tendencies caused by vibration. plastic floats sometimes crack because of mtbe in the fuel. foam floats will only absorb more fuel and sink again once the protective coating is gone. i find it worth a few cents of solder and about ten minutes of work as compared to a few bucks for a new float. most of the ten minutes is spent in preparation and clean up. as for why you might want to repair instead of replace all the parts stores are closed the manufacturer says the floats are on a 6 month back order the owner of the carb wants to restore with original parts and the number one reason some floats are no longer in production. you forgot one other reason. can you think what it is. i am afflicted by it. just scroll down for the answer. cuz im a cheap bastard. and get a kick out of using up every last bit of an items usefulness. it is a trait that im afraid this disposable country is losing/lost. -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain i see nothing wrong with that. i built my first bicycle including lacing a wheel out a pile of parts in the basement of a house i lived with my folks. i have a cold chisel out in my shop thats 5 shorter than when my step-dad bought it in 1947. ive reforged and retempered the cutting edge 7 times now and its almost ready for another one. budd .

From : budd cochran

budd cochran sez the rings have to able to adjust for the temperature changes an engine goes thru as it runs. with stuck rings they cant move to follow the bore as the diameter changes so cold they fit ok hot they fit too tight. ill bet it cranks real slow and runs the battery down fast when you try to restart hot. well it didnt seem to be cranking too too slow. i keep good batteries in it so it actually holds up fairly long. if youre running big and or multiple batteries then cranking may not be affected much but the key is the hot no start with fuel and spark available. try retarding the timing to tdc and see if it starts hot but lacks power. how about getting on the highway and blowing out the proverbial carbon its probably too late for that to help. once an engine gets to this point its time for a rebuild. meanwhile i should slap a spare coil on it just for shits and grins. wont hurt or help got that right no improvement. more proof it isnt ignition related. would the stupid thing keep running if i dont shut it off lol. i can imagine a cylinder full of marvel mystery oil and a good long run down the high way. yeeehaaaaa its youre truck but i would not try it. stuck rings will score cylinders and then youre looking at overboring oversize poistons and rings on top of just a normal overhaul cost. and marvel oil will just add to the carbon. but you might consider getting a running engine from a wrecking yard and use it while you rebuil this one or rebuild the junkyard engine and wap it in. heck man. this is a plow truck. it could snow any day now. let alone finding a good running 360. damn its your choice. you asked for suggestions as to what was the possible problem. i gave my opinion. do with it as you choose. with modern fuel injected engines its almost a thing of the past to have rings seize up because of carbon buildup but as long as there is a carburetor on an engine any engine it will always be possible. budd -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : neil nelson

hemipower@aol.com hemipower wrote do you have voltage at coil + when its malfunctioning now being the perfect time to test i see that im getting about 7v on the + of the coil and 12v at the battery. that should be about right huh like you say the ballast comes in on the run position. and the ballast cuts the voltage in half. and now that ive gone a couple of days and it appears to be starting cold and not restarting might once warm might point to the coil. your thoughts well i guess i mistakenly assumed from your original post that the no start was because there was no spark. evidently not... you need to start with the basics spark fuel compression one of those or more has got to be missing. .

From : budd cochran

tom reread his posts. the clues are there. btw about carb floats once the brass ones sink they stay sunk until repaired or replaced the foam ones will dry out and float again for a while but will sink and stay sunk as long as theyre wet or until replaced. do you know how to repair brass floats -- budd cochran i doubt that hung rings have anything to do with it. if that were the problem you would see noticeable changes as it warmed up while it was running such as seizing. are you sure that you are always getting fuel or too much fuel did you try connecting a timing light to it when it refuses to start that will tell you if you still have spark and where the timing is. it is always better to check the obvious before beginning random engine rebuilds. the carb is also affected by heat and you claim that yours is already giving you problems i would look there first. perhaps your float is sinking and causing a warm engine flood condition. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving budd cochran sez the rings have to able to adjust for the temperature changes an engine goes thru as it runs. with stuck rings they cant move to follow the bore as the diameter changes so cold they fit ok hot they fit too tight. ill bet it cranks real slow and runs the battery down fast when you try to restart hot. well it didnt seem to be cranking too too slow. i keep good batteries in it so it actually holds up fairly long. how about getting on the highway and blowing out the proverbial carbon its probably too late for that to help. once an engine gets to this point its time for a rebuild. meanwhile i should slap a spare coil on it just for shits and grins. wont hurt or help got that right no improvement. would the stupid thing keep running if i dont shut it off lol. i can imagine a cylinder full of marvel mystery oil and a good long run down the high way. yeeehaaaaa but you might consider getting a running engine from a wrecking yard and use it while you rebuil this one or rebuild the junkyard engine and wap it in. heck man. this is a plow truck. it could snow any day now. let alone finding a good running 360. damn with modern fuel injected engines its almost a thing of the past to have rings seize up because of carbon buildup but as long as there is a carburetor on an engine any engine it will always be possible. budd -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : budd cochran

nope just a single batt but it is new and big. lol does it seem to slow down a bit too quickly this isnt an exact symptom but does give a indication of starting system condition also. try retarding the timing to tdc and see if it starts hot but lacks power. i can do that. this engine is in its third truck. the salt they use really tear up these trucks not to mention i just buy em old because they will be whooped on all winter and sliding into stuff. im just now experimenting with that por-15 in hopes of slowing the rust down a little bit. what part of the country are you in sounds a bit like indiana. get them undercoated after a good steam cleaning underneath. be sure to clean all the little places water and salt can hide. you might consider a do-it-yourself bedliner coating underneath instead of the normal tarry coating. engine and wap it in. i have a couple sitting here one 360 needs a cam and the other is a 318 and was given to me it is supposed to run but man i was not ready for this. you never will be ready for it. welcome to the world of self-employment. hang on tight because it will throw everything at you it can. i also wanted to throw on some new front springs among a few other improvements. add a couple used leaves from junkyard springs or from the trucks you throw away. if you double the second third and fourth leaves youll gain close to another half ton or better. ive also had a strange whirring noise coming from what i think is the transfer case. full or part time oil level ok i was just getting the truck ready to go have my tranny man have a hear. it has been doing that since i got it three years ago. i just didnt want to push my luck. and the spare truck which may turn into the main truck needs a tranny. if the main trans is good in this one then use it. never throw out good servicible or easily rebuilt parts. if a trans goes youll have a spare and you trans person wont be listening to you yelling at him on the phone right its your choice. you asked for suggestions as to what was the possible problem. i gave my opinion. do with it as you choose. no i hear ya budd dont get me wrong i know you have been around a while and i respect your opinion and i definitely appreciate the time you are taking to educate me. im just throwing things out to see what might stick. thanks for the kudos i do try to do my best. the symptoms you listed especially when you said there was no restart when hot was just exactly what i had with my 318 about five years ago. i could only get a hot start by retarding the ignition timing which took some cranking load off the starter and allowed a little more current for spark. i think if you do a search of the archives theres some posts in there where i was asking for help just like you about it. read them and the responses. how about a day or two soaking in marvel mystery oil throw in some new plugs getting it real hot and then start dribbling water down the carb for a good old steam clean -- first im not a fan of marvel mystery oil. my older brother ran the marvel top oiler in a new 52 pontiac convertible and lost three engines in six months. he wasnt a hard driver either. ymmv the water-down-the-carb trick only cleans the combustion chamber not the piston rings. im afraid that a tear down is the only way. btw if you do your own carb work or the person that does it for you will listen to suggestions; set the floats a little lower when running a blade. the extra weight causes more vibration the rougher ride when the blade is down and tilts the truck down at the front when carrying the blade. on carter carbs these things can cause flooding and loading up with carbon if the float is only a tiny bit too high. i suggest lowering the fuel level about 1/8. .

From : hemipower

tbone sez hemipower@aol.com wrot it warms up and runs great and idles fine. no noises what so ever. how long is the engine stopped before you try to restart it i certainly did not think i would be looking at a new motor. i doubt that a new motor will be needed. egads i was hoping not. i plan to pull the plugs tomorrow and check the compression. it needs plugs anyway. in the meantime im googling stuck piston rings and am sorting through all sorts of hilarious posts. i have learned that two things can stick rings. lacquer and varnish lacquer comes from oil and supposedly is water soluble and varnish is fuel related and is acetone soluble. some claim that filling a cylinder with marvel mystery oil will free rings others say kerosene pored in there will work too. im thinking if it is stuck rings a good soaking in acetone kerosene/mmo followed by a steam bath by poring water down the carb while running would/should/could knock em loose. i can only wait till morning -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : hemipower

budd cochran sez tom reread his posts. the clues are there. yes we just need to figure them out. btw about carb floats once the brass ones sink they stay sunk until repaired or replaced same goes for the plastic ones. the foam ones will dry out and float again for a while but will sink and stay sunk as long as theyre wet or until replaced. do you know how to repair brass floats very carefully or with a hammer i hear you gotta be very careful with putting a pinhole in em and resoldering. if iunderstand correctly the balance has to be just right. i tried going the cheapie route and draining a plastic one once. i put a very small dab of super glue over the hole. if i recall it didnt work. lol it was a while ago. budd cochran -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : budd cochran

ill wait for toms answer if you dont mind since it appears he doesnt know. -- budd cochran budd cochran sez tom reread his posts. the clues are there. yes we just need to figure them out. btw about carb floats once the brass ones sink they stay sunk until repaired or replaced same goes for the plastic ones. the foam ones will dry out and float again for a while but will sink and stay sunk as long as theyre wet or until replaced. do you know how to repair brass floats very carefully or with a hammer i hear you gotta be very careful with putting a pinhole in em and resoldering. if iunderstand correctly the balance has to be just right. i tried going the cheapie route and draining a plastic one once. i put a very small dab of super glue over the hole. if i recall it didnt work. lol it was a while ago. budd cochran -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : hemipower

budd cochran sez nope just a single batt but it is new and big. lol does it seem to slow down a bit too quickly this isnt an exact symptom but does give a indication of starting system condition also. no it seems to hold up pretty good but of course i have killed it and now use the starter/charger when needed. try retarding the timing to tdc and see if it starts hot but lacks power. i can do that. this engine is in its third truck. the salt they use really tear up these trucks not to mention i just buy em old because they will be whooped on all winter and sliding into stuff. im just now experimenting with that por-15 in hopes of slowing the rust down a little bit. what part of the country are you in sounds a bit like indiana. im over here in cleveland. i was not ready for this. you never will be ready for it. welcome to the world of self-employment. hang on tight because it will throw everything at you it can. lol i see that is why i like having spares for the spares. this was the first year i have two trucks to run and thought i was on top of it. 15 years of plowing with one truck has been pretty lucky. well we are talking dodges here. heheh i also wanted to throw on some new front springs among a few other improvements. add a couple used leaves from junkyard springs or from the trucks you throw away. if you double the second third and fourth leaves youll gain close to another half ton or better. i think the ones in there are pretty shot if not broken heh i had the back ones fall out. now with new ones the back is all jacked up. ive also had a strange whirring noise coming from what i think is the transfer case. full or part time oil level ok its a part time one an el cheapo imo. i always like the bullet proof full time units which i finally got another of on my second truck. i never had a prob with them in the past. i was just getting the truck ready to go have my tranny man have a hear. it has been doing that since i got it three years ago. i just didnt want to push my luck. and the spare truck which may turn into the main truck needs a tranny. if the main trans is good in this one then use it. never throw out good servicible or easily rebuilt parts. if a trans goes youll have a spare and you trans person wont be listening to you yelling at him on the phone right at this point i want them both fixed and btw i never throw any thing away if i can help it. lol ill get the trans fixed on the spare while i deal with this. i cant have two trucks torn apart dammit. its your choice. you asked for suggestions as to what was the possible problem. i gave my opinion. do with it as you choose. no i hear ya budd dont get me wrong i know you have been around a while and i respect your opinion and i definitely appreciate the time you are taking to educate me. im just throwing things out to see what might stick. thanks for the kudos i do try to do my best. the symptoms you listed especially when you said there was no restart when hot was just exactly what i had with my 318 about five years ago. i could only get a hot start by retarding the ignition timing which took some cranking load off the starter and allowed a little more current for spark. i think if you do a search of the archives im one step ahead of ya budd. i started searching stuck piston rings and have been wallowing through those posts. i out lined a few to t-bone in another post of this thread. theres some posts in there where i was asking for help just like you about it. read them and the responses. ill have to look for them. how about a day or two soaking in marvel mystery oil throw in some new plugs getting it real hot and then start dribbling water down the carb for a good old steam clean -- first im not a fan of marvel mystery oil. i normally dont use snake oils either but sometimes they may work in a case like this. my older brother ran the marvel top oiler in a new 52 pontiac convertible and lost three engines in six months. he wasnt a hard driver either. ymmv damn never heard of that contraption. the water-down-the-carb trick only cleans the combustion chamber not the piston rings. im afraid that a tear down is the only way. btw if you do your own carb work or the person that does it for you will listen to suggestions; set the floats a little lower when running a blade. the extra weight causes more vibration the rougher ride when the blade is down and tilts the truck down at the front when carrying the blade. on carter carbs these things can cause flooding and loading up with carbon if the float is only a tiny bit too high. i suggest lowering the fuel level about 1/8. good advice. that may be what is the cause of this whole debacle. the front is pretty low as outlined above. i was going to address one thing at a time if i could just get this thing to keep r

From : nitro maxx

well since you get a pop when you let off the key when cranking i would say you arent getting power to the coil when the key is in the crank position. ive run into this problem before on my 82 ramcharger. you should have 2 wires on one side of the ballast one goes to the coil and one comes from the starter relay to feed battery voltage to the coil during cranking i would guess there is a bad connection on the one from the relay. there are 2 quick ways to check if this is the problem one turn the key to run and jump the starter should be the fat brown wire on the starter relay. or feed battery voltage to the coil through the ballast connector with 2 wires on it. if you do this dont keep it hooked up like that for long the coil will get hot if its run with full voltage going to it . or you could unplug the 2 wire connector from the ballast and hook up a test lite to it and see if there is power to it in the crank position the single wire on the ballast feeds power in the run position. i know thats three if any of this works there is a break in the connection between the starter relay and the ballast hope this helps you tim .

From : tbone

tom reread his posts. the clues are there. really where none of the true symptoms such as slow cranking an overheating seem to be present here. he is using a single battery and says that it is cranking normally and runs fine until he shuts it down. while not starting hot may be one of the symptoms there are many other things that can also cause this condition that can easily be discovered. a timing light will show him if his ignition is functioning during cranking and a look and sniff in the carb will determine if he is getting any fuel or too much. btw about carb floats once the brass ones sink they stay sunk until repaired or replaced the foam ones will dry out and float again for a while but will sink and stay sunk as long as theyre wet or until replaced. while this is true it is not the complete truth. just like a ship neither type of float will just drop to the bottom they take time to sink. as for the brass and plastic floats how far they sink depends where the leak forms. they can partially sink and i have seen it happen. is this what happened here who knows until he opens the carb and looks nobody does. do you know how to repair brass floats sure but why would i waste the time to do it unless the float was no longer available i would just order a new one with the rebuild kit and replace it. my time is worth far more than the cost of a few dollar part. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : budd cochran

budd cochran sez nope just a single batt but it is new and big. lol does it seem to slow down a bit too quickly this isnt an exact symptom but does give a indication of starting system condition also. no it seems to hold up pretty good but of course i have killed it and now use the starter/charger when needed. youre rings are stuck. make sure you charge the battery well before restarting or have a freshly charged battery handy. starter/charger tend to not have quite enough amps to really crank an engine well. what part of the country are you in sounds a bit like indiana. im over here in cleveland. lol ah a suburb of indy. i was born just south of indianapolis. that explains the salt problem. you never will be ready for it. welcome to the world of self-employment. hang on tight because it will throw everything at you it can. lol i see that is why i like having spares for the spares. this was the first year i have two trucks to run and thought i was on top of it. 15 years of plowing with one truck has been pretty lucky. well we are talking dodges here. heheh vbg careful the anti-dodge faction will want to hang you by your thumbs . .. .if they can find a toyota with enough towing capacity to pull on the ropes. add a couple used leaves from junkyard springs or from the trucks you throw away. if you double the second third and fourth leaves youll gain close to another half ton or better. i think the ones in there are pretty shot if not broken heh i had the back ones fall out. now with new ones the back is all jacked up. makes it hard to get the plow up doesnt it bg i was thinking that using recylcled springs parts would reduce your overhead. ive also had a strange whirring noise coming from what i think is the transfer case. full or part time oil level ok its a part time one an el cheapo imo. i always like the bullet proof full time units which i finally got another of on my second truck. i never had a prob with them in the past. iirc from postings in here in the past both use a silent chain drive and the whirring is from wear on the chain. i dont remember if its a sign of trouble or not. if the main trans is good in this one then use it. never throw out good servicible or easily rebuilt parts. if a trans goes youll have a spare and you trans person wont be listening to you yelling at him on the phone right at this point i want them both fixed and btw i never throw any thing away if i can help it. lol ill get the trans fixed on the spare while i deal with this. i cant have two trucks torn apart dammit. i understand what your saying and thats why im suggesting possible ways to get a truck running as soon as possible. thanks for the kudos i do try to do my best. the symptoms you listed especially when you said there was no restart when hot was just exactly what i had with my 318 about five years ago. i could only get a hot start by retarding the ignition timing which took some cranking load off the starter and allowed a little more current for spark. i think if you do a search of the archives im one step ahead of ya budd. i started searching stuck piston rings and have been wallowing through those posts. i out lined a few to t-bone in another post of this thread. lol good for you! theres some posts in there where i was asking for help just like you about it. read them and the responses. ill have to look for them. sounds good. first im not a fan of marvel mystery oil. i normally dont use snake oils either but sometimes they may work in a case like this. my older brother ran the marvel top oiler in a new 52 pontiac convertible and lost three engines in six months. he wasnt a hard driver either. ymmv damn never heard of that contraption. it automatically dispensed marvel oil onto the valvetrain of engines back in the late 40s and early 50s. his rods let go pulling out onto a highway in colorado springs in 53. i remember it because of him and my step-dad arguing about whos responsibility it was. raymond my brother had put the oiler on the engine and expected pontiac to pay for the engine. sounds like today doesnt it the water-down-the-carb trick only cleans the combustion chamber not the piston rings. im afraid that a tear down is the only way. btw if you do your own carb work or the person that does it for you will listen to suggestions; set the floats a little lower when running a blade. the extra weight causes more vibration the rougher ride when the blade is down and tilts the truck down at the front when carrying the blade. on carter carbs these things can cause flooding and loading up with carbon if the float is only a tiny bit too high. i suggest lowering the fuel level about 1/8. good advice. that may be what is the cause of this whole debacle. the front is pretty low as outlined above. i was going to address

From : tbone

now this is exactly what i am talking about an attack against me for no apparent reason. and you wonder why people do it to you. now before you do your typical routine of denying it the way you worded this clearly makes it an attack and if you are even a tenth the author that you claim to be you know that i am correct. as for repairing a brass float what is the big deal about doing that it doesnt take a brain surgeon to figure it out now does it the point is that since they are so cheap to replace why bother. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving ill wait for toms answer if you dont mind since it appears he doesnt know. -- budd cochran budd cochran sez tom reread his posts. the clues are there. yes we just need to figure them out. btw about carb floats once the brass ones sink they stay sunk until repaired or replaced same goes for the plastic ones. the foam ones will dry out and float again for a while but will sink and stay sunk as long as theyre wet or until replaced. do you know how to repair brass floats very carefully or with a hammer i hear you gotta be very careful with putting a pinhole in em and resoldering. if iunderstand correctly the balance has to be just right. i tried going the cheapie route and draining a plastic one once. i put a very small dab of super glue over the hole. if i recall it didnt work. lol it was a while ago. budd cochran -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : budd cochran

and look who immediately gets defensive just because i asked a question. as for why would you fix rather than replace see the other reply. -- budd cochran now this is exactly what i am talking about an attack against me for no apparent reason. and you wonder why people do it to you. now before you do your typical routine of denying it the way you worded this clearly makes it an attack and if you are even a tenth the author that you claim to be you know that i am correct. as for repairing a brass float what is the big deal about doing that it doesnt take a brain surgeon to figure it out now does it the point is that since they are so cheap to replace why bother. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving ill wait for toms answer if you dont mind since it appears he doesnt know. -- budd cochran budd cochran sez tom reread his posts. the clues are there. yes we just need to figure them out. btw about carb floats once the brass ones sink they stay sunk until repaired or replaced same goes for the plastic ones. the foam ones will dry out and float again for a while but will sink and stay sunk as long as theyre wet or until replaced. do you know how to repair brass floats very carefully or with a hammer i hear you gotta be very careful with putting a pinhole in em and resoldering. if iunderstand correctly the balance has to be just right. i tried going the cheapie route and draining a plastic one once. i put a very small dab of super glue over the hole. if i recall it didnt work. lol it was a while ago. budd cochran -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : budd cochran

tom reread his posts. the clues are there. really where none of the true symptoms such as slow cranking an overheating seem to be present here. he is using a single battery and says that it is cranking normally and runs fine until he shuts it down. while not starting hot may be one of the symptoms there are many other things that can also cause this condition that can easily be discovered. a timing light will show him if his ignition is functioning during cranking and a look and sniff in the carb will determine if he is getting any fuel or too much. you missed the clue. while a module can fail as you say when hot the puff of smoke and bump he gets from the quick on/off switch action when the engine is hot tells you the module is fine. therefore the problem lay elsewhere. btw about carb floats once the brass ones sink they stay sunk until repaired or replaced the foam ones will dry out and float again for a while but will sink and stay sunk as long as theyre wet or until replaced. while this is true it is not the complete truth. just like a ship neither type of float will just drop to the bottom they take time to sink. youve never had one sink while driving have you they dont have to hit bottom to screw up a carb mixture. they will sink a lot faster on a running engine than on a carb sitting on a workbench. as for the brass and plastic floats how far they sink depends where the leak forms. bull. a brass float has a minimum of positive boyancy in a liquid of lower viscosity than water. why so the liquid helps stabilize the float and reduce flooding tendencies caused by vibration. plastic floats sometimes crack because of mtbe in the fuel. foam floats will only absorb more fuel and sink again once the protective coating is gone. they can partially sink and i have seen it happen. really and how much of the float was above the fuel level 1/2 1/4 less than an 1/8 of an inch the only high floating floats ive ever seen were foam not brass or hollow plastic and even then 75% or more was under the level of the gas when new. is this what happened here who knows i agree it is possible the fuel level rose because of the float sinking but your ignoring the plow fators. as anyone whos driven a plow and theyll tell you there can be a lot of vibration when plowing and the weight of a blade when the front suspension isnt beefed can sag a lot. im looking at all the clues not justwhat i want to read. until he opens the carb and looks nobody does. agreed. however by studying all the clues you can see other possibile reasons for the symptoms agreed do you know how to repair brass floats sure but why would i waste the time to do it unless the float was no longer available i would just order a new one with the rebuild kit and replace it. my time is worth far more than the cost of a few dollar part. so how is it done i know how also but i find it worth a few cents of solder and about ten minutes of work as compared to a few bucks for a new float. most of the ten minutes is spent in preparation and clean up. as for why you might want to repair instead of replace all the parts stores are closed the manufacturer says the floats are on a 6 month back order the owner of the carb wants to restore with original parts and the number one reason some floats are no longer in production. budd .

From : tbone

i am not going to get into another longwinded debate on this. ill wait for toms answer if you dont mind since it appears he doesnt know. is what you wrote and that doesnt sound like much of a question more like an insult and basically telling the op to shut up at that. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving and look who immediately gets defensive just because i asked a question. as for why would you fix rather than replace see the other reply. -- budd cochran now this is exactly what i am talking about an attack against me for no apparent reason. and you wonder why people do it to you. now before you do your typical routine of denying it the way you worded this clearly makes it an attack and if you are even a tenth the author that you claim to be you know that i am correct. as for repairing a brass float what is the big deal about doing that it doesnt take a brain surgeon to figure it out now does it the point is that since they are so cheap to replace why bother. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving ill wait for toms answer if you dont mind since it appears he doesnt know. -- budd cochran budd cochran sez tom reread his posts. the clues are there. yes we just need to figure them out. btw about carb floats once the brass ones sink they stay sunk until repaired or replaced same goes for the plastic ones. the foam ones will dry out and float again for a while but will sink and stay sunk as long as theyre wet or until replaced. do you know how to repair brass floats very carefully or with a hammer i hear you gotta be very careful with putting a pinhole in em and resoldering. if iunderstand correctly the balance has to be just right. i tried going the cheapie route and draining a plastic one once. i put a very small dab of super glue over the hole. if i recall it didnt work. lol it was a while ago. budd cochran -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : hemipower

budd cochran scolds me with the following ill wait for toms answer if you dont mind since it appears he doesnt know. i was always like horseshack on welcome back kotter. when i think i know the answer i always want to just shout it out. lol sorry was i close -- budd cochran budd cochran sez tom reread his posts. the clues are there. yes we just need to figure them out. btw about carb floats once the brass ones sink they stay sunk until repaired or replaced same goes for the plastic ones. the foam ones will dry out and float again for a while but will sink and stay sunk as long as theyre wet or until replaced. do you know how to repair brass floats very carefully or with a hammer i hear you gotta be very careful with putting a pinhole in em and resoldering. if iunderstand correctly the balance has to be just right. i tried going the cheapie route and draining a plastic one once. i put a very small dab of super glue over the hole. if i recall it didnt work. lol it was a while ago. budd cochran -- hemipower -- hemipower

From : hemipower

its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain . 222 270414 20031028171123.04427.00000210@mb-m14.aol.com budd cochran sez tim my step-dad told me of an old trick used to start ford model ts. crank the engine over a few turns to prime a cylinder and then turn the ignition timer on and off. this made a spark in the charged cylinder and started the engine without risking a broken arm. the ignition module used on his truck is really nothing more than a well sealed transistor ignition. ive not tried it but ive heard rumor of them even working with points instead of the pickup/reluctor. i think i may have heard that myself. it may have been on a tractor pulling page. even they were claiming the dodge brain is the best and were showing how to hook it up to various other components. what this means is that if you cycle the ignition on and off the module may read that for a signal from the distributor and make a spark. it does indicate a good ignition system. -- budd cochran well since you get a pop when you let off the key when cranking i would say you arent getting power to the coil when the key is in the crank position. ive run into this problem before on my 82 ramcharger. you should have 2 wires on one side of the ballast one goes to the coil and one comes from the starter relay to feed battery voltage to the coil during cranking i would guess there is a bad connection on the one from the relay. there are 2 quick ways to check if this is the problem one turn the key to run and jump the starter should be the fat brown wire on the starter relay. or feed battery voltage to the coil through the ballast connector with 2 wires on it. if you do this dont keep it hooked up like that for long the coil will get hot if its run with full voltage going to it . or you could unplug the 2 wire connector from the ballast and hook up a test lite to it and see if there is power to it in the crank position the single wire on the ballast feeds power in the run position. i know thats three if any of this works there is a break in the connection between the starter relay and the ballast hope this helps you tim -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : budd cochran

i simply asked a question i would have asked if i were taking a carb to you for repair to get an idea of what you could or could not do in the line of repairs. whats wrong with that -- budd cochran i am not going to get into another longwinded debate on this. ill wait for toms answer if you dont mind since it appears he doesnt know. is what you wrote and that doesnt sound like much of a question more like an insult and basically telling the op to shut up at that. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving and look who immediately gets defensive just because i asked a question. as for why would you fix rather than replace see the other reply. -- budd cochran now this is exactly what i am talking about an attack against me for no apparent reason. and you wonder why people do it to you. now before you do your typical routine of denying it the way you worded this clearly makes it an attack and if you are even a tenth the author that you claim to be you know that i am correct. as for repairing a brass float what is the big deal about doing that it doesnt take a brain surgeon to figure it out now does it the point is that since they are so cheap to replace why bother. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving ill wait for toms answer if you dont mind since it appears he doesnt know. -- budd cochran budd cochran sez tom reread his posts. the clues are there. yes we just need to figure them out. btw about carb floats once the brass ones sink they stay sunk until repaired or replaced same goes for the plastic ones. the foam ones will dry out and float again for a while but will sink and stay sunk as long as theyre wet or until replaced. do you know how to repair brass floats very carefully or with a hammer i hear you gotta be very careful with putting a pinhole in em and resoldering. if iunderstand correctly the balance has to be just right. i tried going the cheapie route and draining a plastic one once. i put a very small dab of super glue over the hole. if i recall it didnt work. lol it was a while ago. budd cochran -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : hemipower

budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net date 10/28/03 634 pm eastern standard time message-id g2dnb.6332$xl.4350@02.roc.ny yes you were very close. ill email you the details if you wish. p.s i also remember something about heating it or cooling them or something to get the solder to suck in. budd cochran budd cochran scolds me with the following ill wait for toms answer if you dont mind since it appears he doesnt know. i was always like horseshack on welcome back kotter. when i think i know the answer i always want to just shout it out. lol sorry was i close -- budd cochran budd cochran sez tom reread his posts. the clues are there. yes we just need to figure them out. btw about carb floats once the brass ones sink they stay sunk until repaired or replaced same goes for the plastic ones. the foam ones will dry out and float again for a while but will sink and stay sunk as long as theyre wet or until replaced. do you know how to repair brass floats very carefully or with a hammer i hear you gotta be very careful with putting a pinhole in em and resoldering. if iunderstand correctly the balance has to be just right. i tried going the cheapie route and draining a plastic one once. i put a very small dab of super glue over the hole. if i recall it didnt work. lol it was a while ago. budd cochran -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : tbone

tom reread his posts. the clues are there. really where none of the true symptoms such as slow cranking an overheating seem to be present here. he is using a single battery and says that it is cranking normally and runs fine until he shuts it down. while not starting hot may be one of the symptoms there are many other things that can also cause this condition that can easily be discovered. a timing light will show him if his ignition is functioning during cranking and a look and sniff in the carb will determine if he is getting any fuel or too much. you missed the clue. i did!!!! while a module can fail as you say when hot the puff of smoke and bump he gets from the quick on/off switch action when the engine is hot tells you the module is fine. that is incorrect. all that this shows is that the module is supplying voltage to the coil when the ignition is in the run position but that is only 1/3 of what is needed. it also needs to supply voltage during cranking and modulate that voltage to the coil to caiuse a spark. just because the module is sending voltage to the coil it doesnt mean that it is responding to the pickup coil when hot. the easiest way to prove the ignition is functional during cranking is with a timing light. they work just as well during cranking as they do when the engine is running and no flash means no ignition. you can also use it to make sure that the firing isnt just random scatter. therefore the problem lay elsewhere. possibly but what you just described does not confirm or prove that. the main symptoms of stuck rings still are not here. btw about carb floats once the brass ones sink they stay sunk until repaired or replaced the foam ones will dry out and float again for a while but will sink and stay sunk as long as theyre wet or until replaced. while this is true it is not the complete truth. just like a ship neither type of float will just drop to the bottom they take time to sink. youve never had one sink while driving have you nope. and now with the exception of the magnum all of my vehicles are fuel injected so i should never have to worry about that. they dont have to hit bottom to screw up a carb mixture. i know that this is my whole point. they will sink a lot faster on a running engine than on a carb sitting on a workbench. agreed. as for the brass and plastic floats how far they sink depends where the leak forms. bull. a brass float has a minimum of positive boyancy in a liquid of lower viscosity than water. why so the liquid helps stabilize the float and reduce flooding tendencies caused by vibration. huh that makes no sense at all. the whole purpose of the float is to control the inlet valve in the fuel bowl so how exactly is the liquid going to stabilize the float in a way that will prevent flooding and why would it need to is the float going to sink when vibrated unless it was improperly set up in the first place or sinking vibration and angle should have no effect. hey could that be why his vehicle doesnt want to start bty the buoyancy of any float is determined by displacement vs. mass. since all three would be the about the same size for a given application the lightest one has the most buoyancy and since there is no significant weight difference between the brass plastic or foam floats... plastic floats sometimes crack because of mtbe in the fuel. foam floats will only absorb more fuel and sink again once the protective coating is gone. while true what does this have to do with the discussion and btw i didnt say that the cause of his problems was due to a sinking float only that it is a possible problem. they can partially sink and i have seen it happen. really and how much of the float was above the fuel level 1/2 1/4 less than an 1/8 of an inch the only high floating floats ive ever seen were foam not brass or hollow plastic and even then 75% or more was under the level of the gas when new. wtf does this have to do with anything if the float loses some buoyancy then the fuel level will need to be higher for the float to supply the needed pressure to stop fuel flow into the bowl. now i may be wrong here but afaik the proper fuel level in the bowl is important. is this what happened here who knows i agree it is possible the fuel level rose because of the float sinking but your ignoring the plow fators. as anyone whos driven a plow and theyll tell you there can be a lot of vibration when plowing and the weight of a blade when the front suspension isnt beefed can sag a lot. im looking at all the clues not justwhat i want to read. so what who cares if what you say is correct then people would have a difficult time or would not be able to start their cars while parked on a hill lol. did you think that the people who designed the carbs didnt think of that or vibration when they set up the float

From : max340hemipower

other problems 1 4 year old battery turns to shit was it a 48 month battery by chance 2 ic chip dies and im sitting in the middle of the highway with a dead truck electronic parts will do that. but you consumers seem to like fi instead of carburetors. 3 fuel pump dies and costs $350 because they mounted the pump inside the tank. great idea to engineer the vehicle with the pump in the tank. one very good way to keep the pump cool. ill agree the cost is a bit excessive but i doubt its because its in the tank. its more likely because you have to buy the entire in-tank assembly which is more than just a pump. 4 font bumper paint is falling off. wah. 5 the detent for the automatic transmission is not positive. sometimes its in and sometimes its not. are ya positive about that 6 timing chain screw-up. how loose is it how did you find it was loose max i have add and my friends dont understand look!! a chicken!!! .

From : hemipower

budd cochransez a brass float has a minimum of positive boyancy in a liquid of lower viscosity than water. please rephrase this in laymens terms. why so the liquid helps stabilize the float and reduce flooding tendencies caused by vibration. plastic floats sometimes crack because of mtbe in the fuel. foam floats will only absorb more fuel and sink again once the protective coating is gone. i find it worth a few cents of solder and about ten minutes of work as compared to a few bucks for a new float. most of the ten minutes is spent in preparation and clean up. as for why you might want to repair instead of replace all the parts stores are closed the manufacturer says the floats are on a 6 month back order the owner of the carb wants to restore with original parts and the number one reason some floats are no longer in production. you forgot one other reason. can you think what it is. i am afflicted by it. just scroll down for the answer. budd cuz im a cheap bastard. and get a kick out of using up every last bit of an items usefulness. it is a trait that im afraid this disposable country is losing/lost. -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : budd cochran

yes you were very close. ill email you the details if you wish. -- budd cochran budd cochran scolds me with the following ill wait for toms answer if you dont mind since it appears he doesnt know. i was always like horseshack on welcome back kotter. when i think i know the answer i always want to just shout it out. lol sorry was i close -- budd cochran budd cochran sez tom reread his posts. the clues are there. yes we just need to figure them out. btw about carb floats once the brass ones sink they stay sunk until repaired or replaced same goes for the plastic ones. the foam ones will dry out and float again for a while but will sink and stay sunk as long as theyre wet or until replaced. do you know how to repair brass floats very carefully or with a hammer i hear you gotta be very careful with putting a pinhole in em and resoldering. if iunderstand correctly the balance has to be just right. i tried going the cheapie route and draining a plastic one once. i put a very small dab of super glue over the hole. if i recall it didnt work. lol it was a while ago. budd cochran -- hemipower -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : hemipower

budd cochran sez budd cochran sez nope just a single batt but it is new and big. lol does it seem to slow down a bit too quickly this isnt an exact symptom but does give a indication of starting system condition also. no it seems to hold up pretty good but of course i have killed it and now use the starter/charger when needed. youre rings are stuck. make sure you charge the battery well before restarting or have a freshly charged battery handy. starter/charger tend to not have quite enough amps to really crank an engine well. got me the badass 200 amp start/35amp fastcharge/2amp trickle one. what part of the country are you in sounds a bit like indiana. im over here in cleveland. lol ah a suburb of indy. i was born just south of indianapolis. that explains the salt problem. oh yeah she lives in salt water during the winter. rode hard and put up wet. you never will be ready for it. welcome to the world of self-employment. hang on tight because it will throw everything at you it can. lol i see that is why i like having spares for the spares. this was the first year i have two trucks to run and thought i was on top of it. 15 years of plowing with one truck has been pretty lucky. well we are talking dodges here. heheh vbg careful the anti-dodge faction will want to hang you by your thumbs . . .if they can find a toyota with enough towing capacity to pull on the ropes. im hoping the trolls aint hanging here cuz ill tell em. i am a major vopar loyalist. add a couple used leaves from junkyard springs or from the trucks you throw away. if you double the second third and fourth leaves youll gain close to another half ton or better. i think the ones in there are pretty shot if not broken heh i had the back ones fall out. now with new ones the back is all jacked up. makes it hard to get the plow up doesnt it bg i was thinking that using recylcled springs parts would reduce your overhead. yeah i would normally but theses are shot. ive also had a strange whirring noise coming from what i think is the transfer case. full or part time oil level ok its a part time one an el cheapo imo. i always like the bullet proof full time units which i finally got another of on my second truck. i never had a prob with them in the past. iirc from postings in here in the past both use a silent chain drive and the whirring is from wear on the chain. i dont remember if its a sign of trouble or not. i thought the old full time is gear to gear with no chain if the main trans is good in this one then use it. never throw out good servicible or easily rebuilt parts. if a trans goes youll have a spare and you trans person wont be listening to you yelling at him on the phone right at this point i want them both fixed and btw i never throw any thing away if i can help it. lol ill get the trans fixed on the spare while i deal with this. i cant have two trucks torn apart dammit. i understand what your saying and thats why im suggesting possible ways to get a truck running as soon as possible. thats cool budd i appreciate it and welcome any and all suggestions. well almost all. thanks for the kudos i do try to do my best. the symptoms you listed especially when you said there was no restart when hot was just exactly what i had with my 318 about five years ago. i could only get a hot start by retarding the ignition timing which took some cranking load off the starter and allowed a little more current for spark. i think if you do a search of the archives im one step ahead of ya budd. i started searching stuck piston rings and have been wallowing through those posts. i out lined a few to t-bone in another post of this thread. lol good for you! theres some posts in there where i was asking for help just like you about it. read them and the responses. ill have to look for them. sounds good. first im not a fan of marvel mystery oil. i normally dont use snake oils either but sometimes they may work in a case like this. my older brother ran the marvel top oiler in a new 52 pontiac convertible and lost three engines in six months. he wasnt a hard driver either. ymmv damn never heard of that contraption. it automatically dispensed marvel oil onto the valvetrain of engines back in the late 40s and early 50s. his rods let go pulling out onto a highway in colorado springs in 53. i remember it because of him and my step-dad arguing about whos responsibility it was. raymond my brother had put the oiler on the engine and expected pontiac to pay for the engine. i dont know the viscosity of mmo cuz ive never used it but it sounds like a partial solvent and would be the last thing id want trickling into my oil. sounds like today doesnt it the water-down-the-carb trick only cleans the combustion chamber not the piston rings. im afraid th

From : budd cochranhemipower

went out today and began to prepare to change plugs. cleaned the crud from around the plugs and gave em a shot of pb blaster. deciding that i like a warm block when doing so i began to prepare to start her. begin to do various base line voltage checks to compare to when it is warm and not starting. check batt voltage 11.8. turn on key to check coil voltage. 7.5 should be within 1 volt of battery voltage. hmmmm whats that. i hear tick.tick.tick.tick.tick. kinda fast listen by carb to see if it is something inside making a noise due to electric fuel pump. nope. listen closer. sounds like it is coming from dist. remove cap and sure enough it is coming from inside the cap. what the heck it is the center button ticking. the rotor spring contact hold a screw driver by the tip and see a small little spark jumping to tip of driver. hmmmm. look and see that the reluctor is between blades. turn off key and reinstall cap. get in pump the pedal a few times and she fires right up. runs beautiful. no squeaks smoke ticks or anything. let run for about ten minutes and run inside for a pop. come back out and it has died. try to restart no good. prime with gas with no luck. retard dist as suggested by budd no diff just slower crank. that sounds like the timing was advanced. turning the dist the direction the vacuum advance points will adavnce the timing. clockwise retards counter clockwise advances. advance a little and no change. put back to original spot. check and i am still getting voltage7 to coil. check ballast resister. 12 in 7 out. replace the ballast. its to limit current flow more than tom drop voltage. notice no more ticking from cap. still havent figured this out. decide to disconnect lead to dist and check ohms while hot and not starting. should be what 150-850 or something. 150-900 ohms it was 350 or so cold and now i am getting no resistance at all. it appears to be fully open. check each lead separately to ground and both open. replace. it is my opinion that the pickup sounds suspect and will be changed next. do we all agree i agree. is it possible that the inside of the center coil tower/button assembly is at fault when warm that ticking coming from it cold was weird. i could try that first but the funny reading from the pickup when hot seems to point that way. ive never run into that situation. . . . p.s to marsh monster i have also tried a known working coil as well. changed and or checked parts. bresistor changed starter relay changed brain changed coil change for check it has sat and cooled for a few hours. let me run out and try it real quick before i hit post. damn its raining again. anyway. check ohms at dist leads. back to 300. i bet myself it starts. it does right up. it has got to be the pick up. i would swap it out now but with the rain it will wait till morn. i think i have it licked. -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain i hope for you thats what it was. budd .

From : hemipower

budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net date 10/29/03 1207 am eastern standard time message-id pwhnb.6654$733.6421@01.roc.ny i think i may have heard that myself. it may have been on a tractor pulling page. even they were claiming the dodge brain is the best and were showing how to hook it up to various other components. yep. its just an excellently made transistor switch. its just fun to learn the different ways to interface various components from totally different manufacturers. use the best of the best in every situation you can. when you can pull off those kinds of tricks then your know you really have a good handle and understanding of the actual theory behind whatever it is you are dealing with. im going to experiment with an old but serviceable one i have to see if it can work with a set of points. if it was me i would start with the absolute smallest gap i could make. just guessing since no current flows through them they should last virtually forever. it is the rubbing block that would wear out first. budd -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : terry lovelessbudd cochranbudd cochran

all click here to read the text of the cbs piece that aired tonight about the durango/dakota ball joint problem. http//www.cbs.com/stories/2003/10/27/evening/main580233.shtml theres a video on the site as well at the bottom of this page. http//www.cbs.com/sections/ivideo/main500251.shtml#evening i bought a perfect 99 durango 4x4 with 64k miles and imediately had to replace all 4 ball joints moog and brake rotors raybestos. cmoorhead@mindspring.com just wanted to chime in here and throw an idea to a possible cause of the premature aging of ball joints i have a 99 dakota sport 2wd with 89k miles and original balljoints. my dakota also has 15 rims with 255/55/15 tires. in 2000 dodge started putting 17 rims on both the dakota and the durango. thus reducing the tire sidewall by 2 inches. which also reduces the amount of shock absorbed by the tire. the larger diameter of the wheel also provides more leverage on the spindle thus putting more stress on the upper baljoints. as far as i know the ball joint for the 99 dakota is the same as the ball joint for the 2000. in my mind the larger diameter wheels are putting too much stress on the components designed for smaller wheels.......... my luck both front ball joints will jump out on the ground tonight... lol! terry .

From : budd cochran

yep. its just an excellently made transistor switch. its just fun to learn the different ways to interface various components from totally different manufacturers. use the best of the best in every situation you can. when you can pull off those kinds of tricks then your know you really have a good handle and understanding of the actual theory behind whatever it is you are dealing with. exactly. i took a old silver spoon a couple handfuls of wire a flashlight battery and a cubic ziconia ring and made a 1 million watt laser. mcguyver im going to experiment with an old but serviceable one i have to see if it can work with a set of points. if it was me i would start with the absolute smallest gap i could make. just guessing since no current flows through them they should last virtually forever. it is the rubbing block that would wear out first. i think ill need a current limiting resistor at least but what im hoping to do is turn the module into a sensor to run an old tachometer as a speedometer on my 1952 cushman see i have an older ride alsovbg. i think i can address the wear problem by making a simple rotary contact with a brush from an old electric drill and a home made commutator. it doesnt need to be as accurate as a ignition system needs to be just count revolutions. budd --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 .

From : tbone

you missed the clue. i did!!!! yep. while a module can fail as you say when hot the puff of smoke and bump he gets from the quick on/off switch action when the engine is hot tells you the module is fine. that is incorrect. all that this shows is that the module is supplying voltage to the coil when the ignition is in the run position but that is only 1/3 of what is needed. it also needs to supply voltage during cranking and modulate that voltage to the coil to caiuse a spark. just because the module is sending voltage to the coil it doesnt mean that it is responding to the pickup coil when hot. the easiest way to prove the ignition is functional during cranking is with a timing light. they work just as well during cranking as they do when the engine is running and no flash means no ignition. you can also use it to make sure that the firing isnt just random scatter. only 1/3 the voltage i am not talking about voltage. supplying voltage to the coil with the ignition switch in the run position is only 1 third of the operations needed to start and run the engine. pay attention larry. im looking at my chrysler electronic ignition repair manual and it says youre incorrect. the three voltage checks done with the ignition switch on should read within one volt +/- of battery voltage. do you feel the need to distort what i say so as to try to make yourself look a little smarter i still see no defence for your incorrect assessment of the ignition system. therefore the problem lay elsewhere. possibly but what you just described does not confirm or prove that. the main symptoms of stuck rings still are not here. yes they are. you forget i experienced them personally. no they are not and a past post of his now shows that it is an ignition related problem not stuck rings. youve never had one sink while driving have you nope. and now with the exception of the magnum all of my vehicles are fuel injected so i should never have to worry about that. figures. why they dont have to hit bottom to screw up a carb mixture. i know that this is my whole point. but thats not what you said. yes it is you just dont seem to understand. they will sink a lot faster on a running engine than on a carb sitting on a workbench. agreed. as for the brass and plastic floats how far they sink depends where the leak forms. bull. a brass float has a minimum of positive boyancy in a liquid of lower viscosity than water. why so the liquid helps stabilize the float and reduce flooding tendencies caused by vibration. huh that makes no sense at all. the whole purpose of the float is to control the inlet valve in the fuel bowl so how exactly is the liquid going to stabilize the float in a way that will prevent flooding and why would it need to the float acts like a movable baffle by taking up a high percentage of the bowl volume. the smaller fuel mass moves less forcefully. moves less forcefully to where is the float going to sink when vibrated worse. it can break off. until indy cars went to fuel injection they used floatless carbs for the offy/meyer/drake engines because of the vibration would break off orr damage convetional floats and the constant fuel flow thru the bowl kept the alcohol fuel fresher for better performance. indy cars are a whole different world from street cars. please try to keep your examples within the same realm of reality. unless it was improperly set up in the first place or sinking vibration and angle should have no effect. then why did the automobile industry waste the money to machine the carb pads on intake manifolds so the carbs were very close to level when installed from what i can see the whole top of the intake is level. why did carburetor manufacturers go to rubber tips on the needle valves when better filtering had practically eliminated debris in fuel because filters fail and even very small particles can hang a solid needle valve. hey could that be why his vehicle doesnt want to start bty the buoyancy of any float is determined by displacement vs. mass. since all three would be the about the same size for a given application the lightest one has the most buoyancy and since there is no significant weight difference between the brass plastic or foam floats... bull. you should have taken a couple physics courses in college. while you got part of your basic premise that boyancy is determined by displacement correct the rest is a joke right perhaps you should have taken even a single physics class and then you would know that displacement is only half of the equation. the only joke hear is your understanding of even simple physics. in order for something to float it has to be able to displace a mass greater than it own in the fluid that it is in and this is where weight comes in. while weight and mass are not t

From : budd cochran

budd cochran sez budd cochransez a brass float has a minimum of positive boyancy in a liquid of lower viscosity than water. please rephrase this in laymens terms. no problem i just wrote that for tom. what it says is the float will not have a lot of bouyancy because it needs to be deep in the fuel to reduvce the effects of vibration. generally brass and plastic floats will only have about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch above the fuel level. ok gotcha. i see it now. i see nothing wrong with that. i built my first bicycle i built my second. including lacing a wheel one skill i still intend to learn. i have an antique harley that runs laced wheels that will eventually need to be redone. its really not too hard to do just find a picture if nothing else of the wheel you need to lace and count the crossovers. motorcycle rims are a bit harder that bike wheels though . . .the spokes are bigger. is it the 55 flh in your sigline out a pile of parts in the basement of a house i lived with my folks. i have a cold chisel out in my shop thats 5 shorter than when my step-dad bought it in 1947. ive reforged and retempered the cutting edge 7 times now and its almost ready for another one. i still have my great-grandfathers first hammer. my grandfather replaced the handle back in the 60s and i just recently replaced the head. i love that old tool. sorry budd i just couldnt resist. lol lol dang near got me with that. but i also have a hammer a 2 pound boilermakers pein that my step-dad bought in 48 and its gone thru 6 handles. but it still has a good head like me. budd -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 .

From : hemipower

tbone it looked like he already checked the ignition although it now appears that he didnt completely look it over. yes i went over it completely. it was the fact that it needed to be hot for me to find the problem with the pick-up. when i checked it cold it was within spec. it was when i double checked it hot is when i found it to be the culprit. well i still need to change it out to be sure. -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : tbone

yes you can make it work with a set of points but probably not the way that you think that it would. but why would you want to i can see possibly wanting to upgrade a standard ignition to an electronic ignition and not having the proper distributor but the reluctor / pickup coil is the best part of the system no wear. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i think i may have heard that myself. it may have been on a tractor pulling page. even they were claiming the dodge brain is the best and were showing how to hook it up to various other components. yep. its just an excellently made transistor switch. im going to experiment with an old but serviceable one i have to see if it can work with a set of points. budd .

From : tbone

this was not an attack simply an observation. looking the system over completely means to test things under all conditions and that you didnt do until now. like i said in my first post on this if you would have used your timing light when it didnt start you would have seen that it was an ignition problem. make sure to look over the wiring harness as well as the components especially the connectors. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving tbone it looked like he already checked the ignition although it now appears that he didnt completely look it over. yes i went over it completely. it was the fact that it needed to be hot for me to find the problem with the pick-up. when i checked it cold it was within spec. it was when i double checked it hot is when i found it to be the culprit. well i still need to change it out to be sure. -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : dan j shemipower

hi guys im looking to buy a ram quad cab 4x2 in the spring is there a big difference in the 4.7 and the hemi the other thing is im a standard man love them gears! what i notice when i try to get price at the chryler web site it shows the hemi only available with the automatic in the 1500 series. only when you step up to the 2500 series is it available with standard shift.hemi owners how do you like the new engine any quirks i should know about. thanks in advance guy 4.7 is way underpowered for anything larger than a dakota. go with the hemi. .

From : hemipower

budd cochran sez hemipowerwrote i have an antique harley that runs laced wheels is it the 55 flh in your sigline yes it is. that old grinder is a story in itself. in fact i think a friend of mine from the harley group also posts here. he goes by the handle bee keeper. have you guys heard of him -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : hemipower

tbone sez this was not an attack simply an observation. oh yeah i realize that. i was just restating the process i took and the tests i made. man you guys are a tough crowd i thought the harley group was bad. looking the system over completely means to test things under all conditions and that you didnt do until now. right. thats why i came here to hash it over to see what i was missing. like i said in my first post on this if you would have used your timing light when it didnt start you would have seen that it was an ignition problem. yeah that was a good tip. if i wanted to play around and experiment with this trick how can i keep the truck from starting but while at the same using my t-light to check for and see the spark flash i guess i could unhook my electric fuel pump and run the bowl dry. is there any other way you know of make sure to look over the wiring harness as well as the components especially the connectors. 10-4 -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving tbone it looked like he already checked the ignition although it now appears that he didnt completely look it over. yes i went over it completely. it was the fact that it needed to be hot for me to find the problem with the pick-up. when i checked it cold it was within spec. it was when i double checked it hot is when i found it to be the culprit. well i still need to change it out to be sure. -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .

From : budd cochran

yeah but greg and i dont get along. -- budd cochran budd cochran sez hemipowerwrote i have an antique harley that runs laced wheels is it the 55 flh in your sigline yes it is. that old grinder is a story in itself. in fact i think a friend of mine from the harley group also posts here. he goes by the handle bee keeper. have you guys heard of him -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 .

From : btdaguy

where can i get a repair manual for this truck .

From : daguy

on thu 30 oct 2003 001405 gmt budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net wrote yeah but greg and i dont get along. budd that seems to be a common theme for you. ever think about that .

From : budd cochran

what makes you say that there are only a few people in here that i dont get along with compared to the total number in the group iow you and your friends probably amount to about 1% of the entire group. and statistically its 1% of any demographic group that doesnt get along well. -- budd cochran remember just because a princess calls you a steed doesnt stop you from being an ass. on thu 30 oct 2003 001405 gmt budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net wrote yeah but greg and i dont get along. budd that seems to be a common theme for you. ever think about that --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 .

From : tbonetbone

tbone sez this was not an attack simply an observation. oh yeah i realize that. i was just restating the process i took and the tests i made. ok fair enough. man you guys are a tough crowd i thought the harley group was bad. lol looking the system over completely means to test things under all conditions and that you didnt do until now. right. thats why i came here to hash it over to see what i was missing. like i said in my first post on this if you would have used your timing light when it didnt start you would have seen that it was an ignition problem. yeah that was a good tip. if i wanted to play around and experiment with this trick how can i keep the truck from starting but while at the same using my t-light to check for and see the spark flash i guess i could unhook my electric fuel pump and run the bowl dry. is there any other way you know of short of stuffing a rag into the carb to block the fuel flow i cant think of any other way either. do you have a carb or is your engine throttle body injected make sure to look over the wiring harness as well as the components especially the connectors. 10-4 -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tbone

are you going to explain the budd method of float repair or not -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving what makes you say that there are only a few people in here that i dont get along with compared to the total number in the group iow you and your friends probably amount to about 1% of the entire group. and statistically its 1% of any demographic group that doesnt get along well. -- budd cochran remember just because a princess calls you a steed doesnt stop you from being an ass. on thu 30 oct 2003 001405 gmt budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net wrote yeah but greg and i dont get along. budd that seems to be a common theme for you. ever think about that --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 .

From : daguy

on thu 30 oct 2003 124216 -0500 tbone fatchance@noway.now wrote what makes you say that there are only a few people in here that i dont get along with compared to the total number in the group iow you and your friends probably amount to about 1% of the entire group. and statistically its 1% of any demographic group that doesnt get along well. -- budd cochran that may be stretching the facts just a tad budd. i can think of three right off the bat and that is being kind to you. that would mean that there are three hundred members of this group. i dont think so budd. you need to learn to count but then you need to learn to think first. at any rate you have engaged in your moronic preaching in disputes with a whole lot of members. again if this has slipped your mind then there is always google to refresh your memory. you think that the fact that you stopped those arguments means that those people are now your dear friends. they just quit arguing with you budd. now thats a fact. i wrote a lot more but deleted it because it is obvious that logic common sense and any sort of self balance are way beyond you. .

From : budd cochran

no. i just wanted to see if you had any knowledge of how it was done thats all. -- budd cochran are you going to explain the budd method of float repair or not -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving what makes you say that there are only a few people in here that i dont get along with compared to the total number in the group iow you and your friends probably amount to about 1% of the entire group. and statistically its 1% of any demographic group that doesnt get along well. -- budd cochran remember just because a princess calls you a steed doesnt stop you from being an ass. on thu 30 oct 2003 001405 gmt budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net wrote yeah but greg and i dont get along. budd that seems to be a common theme for you. ever think about that --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 .

From : daguy

on thu 30 oct 2003 182322 gmt budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net wrote no. i just wanted to see if you had any knowledge of how it was done thats all. that actually is nice. it is good to see that you are changing your arrogant ways and are willing to learn from tbone. .

From : rifterbudd cochran

leviathan wrote how do i get a crankshaft sprocket to not rotate as i remove the center bolt what engine most engines have a key that keeps the sprocket in place so it shouldnt move in the first place. however if youre trying to remove the bolt without turning the crankshaft just like red says use an impact wrench. .

From : daguy

on thu 30 oct 2003 185542 gmt budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net wrote $0.02 question whats wrong with his method 2 cents .

From : jerry

daguy wrote i only respond to the stupid idiotic ones that you write. then you have been extremely lax lately.......... jerry .

From : budd cochran

that may be stretching the facts just a tad budd. i dont think so. im pretty certain theres far more lurkers and occasional posters than you think there is. so how do you count lurkers i can think of three right off the bat and that is being kind to you. if your counting persons ive argued with why not just ask them if they harbor any ill will towards me. i still converse with most of them tease them as they tease me and dont get into flame sessions with them. those are called friends. that would mean that there are three hundred members of this group. i dont think so budd. you need to learn to count but then you need to learn to think first. maybe you should think up a way to count a lurkers theres probably far more of them than you think. b past members that have gone to lurking or only occaisionally drop in. most of them are friends of mine. c and finally people that you and your cohorts have driven off with your attacks. im pretty confident that im more correct in my estimations than you. at any rate you have engaged in your moronic preaching in disputes with a whole lot of members. again if this has slipped your mind then there is always google to refresh your memory. so did you bother to check the number of posts where i never argued with anyone did you bother to check the posts where i gave correct answers did you bother to check on how you have given no or at least very little help did you compare my posting history and the percentage of arguments to your history and the number of arguments did you check anyone elses at all i didnt think so . . . . . you think that the fact that you stopped those arguments means that those people are now your dear friends. they just quit arguing with you budd. now thats a fact. and your proof is i wrote a lot more but deleted it because it is obvious that logic common sense and any sort of self balance are way beyond you. too bad that i no longer have all the replies to you that i deleted and never posted at all but i wouldnt want to tie up so much bandwidth. you speak of logic common sense and balance yet you are one that cant seem to let very many if any of my posts go by with out a snide or vulgar remark. this is the first time ive replied to any of your posts in how long now i think it proves that you not i am the problem. now go back to being what you are . . . . nothing. budd remember just because a princess calls you a steed doesnt stop you from being an ass. --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 .

From : budd cochran

$0.02 question whats wrong with his method -- budd cochran on thu 30 oct 2003 182322 gmt budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net wrote no. i just wanted to see if you had any knowledge of how it was done thats all. that actually is nice. it is good to see that you are changing your arrogant ways and are willing to learn from tbone. --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 .

From : budd cochran

yeah split it between you. whats wrong with his method of float repair -- budd cochran on thu 30 oct 2003 185542 gmt budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net wrote $0.02 question whats wrong with his method 2 cents --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 .

From : daguy

on thu 30 oct 2003 185001 gmt budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net wrote that may be stretching the facts just a tad budd. i dont think so. im pretty certain theres far more lurkers and occasional posters than you think there is. so how do you count lurkers i will leave that to you. you are an expert at this type of thing. i can think of three right off the bat and that is being kind to you. if your counting persons ive argued with why not just ask them if they harbor any ill will towards me. i still converse with most of them tease them as they tease me and dont get into flame sessions with them. those are called friends. thanks you just keep making my point. that would mean that there are three hundred members of this group. i dont think so budd. you need to learn to count but then you need to learn to think first. maybe you should think up a way to count a lurkers theres probably far more of them than you think. b past members that have gone to lurking or only occaisionally drop in. most of them are friends of mine. c and finally people that you and your cohorts have driven off with your attacks. im pretty confident that im more correct in my estimations than you. i am sure that you are. perhaps you could list your counts estimations and theories on this specific subject for me at any rate you have engaged in your moronic preaching in disputes with a whole lot of members. again if this has slipped your mind then there is always google to refresh your memory. so did you bother to check the number of posts where i never argued with anyone did you bother to check the posts where i gave correct answers did you bother to check on how you have given no or at least very little help did you compare my posting history and the percentage of arguments to your history and the number of arguments did you check anyone elses at all i didnt think so . . . . . well what is it no help or very little at least take a stand. you think that the fact that you stopped those arguments means that those people are now your dear friends. they just quit arguing with you budd. now thats a fact. and your proof is i would expect you to ask that. i wrote a lot more but deleted it because it is obvious that logic common sense and any sort of self balance are way beyond you. too bad that i no longer have all the replies to you that i deleted and never posted at all but i wouldnt want to tie up so much bandwidth. oh come on dont spoil the fun. post them. you speak of logic common sense and balance yet you are one that cant seem to let very many if any of my posts go by with out a snide or vulgar remark. this is the first time ive replied to any of your posts in how long now not really i only respond to the stupid idiotic ones that you write. now if it seems to you that i am responding to a lot of your posts well.................. i think it proves that you not i am the problem. oh yeah. not that you are being a touch subjective or anything. now go back to being what you are . . . . nothing. oh come on you can do better than that drivel. budd remember just because a princess calls you a steed doesnt stop you from being an ass. --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 .

From : tbonetbone

iow my methods are sooooooo close to yours that you know that if you post your method you will no longer be able to continue your childish attacks on me. or is it that you are afraid that i will just shot your methods full of holes -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving no. i just wanted to see if you had any knowledge of how it was done thats all. -- budd cochran are you going to explain the budd method of float repair or not -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving what makes you say that there are only a few people in here that i dont get along with compared to the total number in the group iow you and your friends probably amount to about 1% of the entire group. and statistically its 1% of any demographic group that doesnt get along well. -- budd cochran remember just because a princess calls you a steed doesnt stop you from being an ass. on thu 30 oct 2003 001405 gmt budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net wrote yeah but greg and i dont get along. budd that seems to be a common theme for you. ever think about that --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 .

From : tbone

ill tell ya what larry why dont you tell us exactly what is wrong with it or are you afraid of being wrong once again -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving $0.02 question whats wrong with his method -- budd cochran on thu 30 oct 2003 182322 gmt budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net wrote no. i just wanted to see if you had any knowledge of how it was done thats all. that actually is nice. it is good to see that you are changing your arrogant ways and are willing to learn from tbone. --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 .

From : budd cochranbudd cochranbudd cochran

who are you talking to -- budd cochran ill tell ya what larry why dont you tell us exactly what is wrong with it or are you afraid of being wrong once again -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving $0.02 question whats wrong with his method -- budd cochran on thu 30 oct 2003 182322 gmt budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net wrote no. i just wanted to see if you had any knowledge of how it was done thats all. that actually is nice. it is good to see that you are changing your arrogant ways and are willing to learn from tbone. --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 .

From : audun nervikclare snyder on ca

why dont they sell 2004 dodge ram 2500 with short wheelbase. is it possible to modify a 1500 to comply with gvwr 7720 certifies by dodge .

From : tbone

you!!! -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving who are you talking to -- budd cochran ill tell ya what larry why dont you tell us exactly what is wrong with it or are you afraid of being wrong once again -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving $0.02 question whats wrong with his method -- budd cochran on thu 30 oct 2003 182322 gmt budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net wrote no. i just wanted to see if you had any knowledge of how it was done thats all. that actually is nice. it is good to see that you are changing your arrogant ways and are willing to learn from tbone. --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 .

From : clare snyder on ca

on thu 30 oct 2003 143857 -0500 tbone fatchance@noway.now wrote ill tell ya what larry why dont you tell us exactly what is wrong with it or are you afraid of being wrong once again i dont know his method but you need to keep the float cool while you solder the hole or when it cools the partial vacuum in the float colapses it. when ive done them i float them in water and use a hot iron. thats after the first su float that collapsed on me. .

From : budd cochran

your lack of maturity is showing again tom. budd cochran you!!! -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving who are you talking to -- budd cochran ill tell ya what larry why dont you tell us exactly what is wrong with it or are you afraid of being wrong once again -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving $0.02 question whats wrong with his method -- budd cochran on thu 30 oct 2003 182322 gmt budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net wrote no. i just wanted to see if you had any knowledge of how it was done thats all. that actually is nice. it is good to see that you are changing your arrogant ways and are willing to learn from tbone. --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 .

From : tbone

no it is your cowardice that is showing once again. i asked you a simple question and once again you refuse to answer it and then try and change the subject to hide the fact imagine that. well since you are turning this into another one of your childish arguments with no purpose i will end my participation in it with you. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving your lack of maturity is showing again tom. budd cochran you!!! -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving who are you talking to -- budd cochran ill tell ya what larry why dont you tell us exactly what is wrong with it or are you afraid of being wrong once again -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving $0.02 question whats wrong with his method -- budd cochran on thu 30 oct 2003 182322 gmt budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net wrote no. i just wanted to see if you had any knowledge of how it was done thats all. that actually is nice. it is good to see that you are changing your arrogant ways and are willing to learn from tbone. --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 .

From : tbone

good response i never thought of that. i dont have a soldering iron big enough to do that and my gun is to much of a pita so i use a pin torch. as i found out they are pretty much useless for most things but are effective at soldering high heat in a very small area parts like this. to keep the float steady i would stick the float into some sand and to reduce dust from the torch i usually wet the sand. i guess that i was creating a heat sink and didnt even realize it lol. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving on thu 30 oct 2003 143857 -0500 tbone fatchance@noway.now wrote ill tell ya what larry why dont you tell us exactly what is wrong with it or are you afraid of being wrong once again i dont know his method but you need to keep the float cool while you solder the hole or when it cools the partial vacuum in the float colapses it. when ive done them i float them in water and use a hot iron. thats after the first su float that collapsed on me. .

From : budd cochrandale yonz

lol whatever child. -- budd cochran no it is your cowardice that is showing once again. i asked you a simple question and once again you refuse to answer it and then try and change the subject to hide the fact imagine that. well since you are turning this into another one of your childish arguments with no purpose i will end my participation in it with you. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving your lack of maturity is showing again tom. budd cochran you!!! -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving who are you talking to -- budd cochran ill tell ya what larry why dont you tell us exactly what is wrong with it or are you afraid of being wrong once again -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving $0.02 question whats wrong with his method -- budd cochran on thu 30 oct 2003 182322 gmt budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net wrote no. i just wanted to see if you had any knowledge of how it was done thats all. that actually is nice. it is good to see that you are changing your arrogant ways and are willing to learn from tbone. --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 --- outgoing mail is certified virus free by avg and norton checked by avg anti-virus system http//www.grisoft.com. version 6.0.532 / virus database 326 - release date 10/27/2003 .

From : dale yonz

daguy daguy@uo.com wrote on thu 30 oct 2003 185001 gmt budd cochran mr-d150spam@citlink.net wrote that may be stretching the facts just a tad budd. i dont think so. im pretty certain theres far more lurkers and occasional posters than you think there is. so how do you count lurkers i will leave that to you. you are an expert at this type of thing. and you are still an expert at being a shit disturber yonzie .

From : hemipower

budd cochran sez yes you were very close. ill email you the details if you wish. sure send em my way. im always looking for new tips and techniques. -- budd cochran budd cochran scolds me with the following ill wait for toms answer if you dont mind since it appears he doesnt know. i was always like horseshack on welcome back kotter. when i think i know the answer i always want to just shout it out. lol sorry was i close -- budd cochran budd cochran sez tom reread his posts. the clues are there. yes we just need to figure them out. btw about carb floats once the brass ones sink they stay sunk until repaired or replaced same goes for the plastic ones. the foam ones will dry out and float again for a while but will sink and stay sunk as long as theyre wet or until replaced. do you know how to repair brass floats very carefully or with a hammer i hear you gotta be very careful with putting a pinhole in em and resoldering. if iunderstand correctly the balance has to be just right. i tried going the cheapie route and draining a plastic one once. i put a very small dab of super glue over the hole. if i recall it didnt work. lol it was a while ago. budd cochran -- hemipower -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain -- hemipower 55 flh whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority its time to pause and reflect. --mark twain .