82 W150 no spark

From : cordobaman

Q: well its been a loooong time since ive been at this group! of course i need some help. 82 w150 318 2bbl no lean burn. no spark. i have voltage at both +/- at the coil pull the coil wire of the distrib and hold near ground and still no spark. replaced coil 2 different ones! and coil wire...still no spark. also replaced ballast resister and ecu i always carry spares. i even ran a jumper straight from the ballast resister to the coil + thnking a bad wire and still nothing. i am going nuts! how can i have no spark when there is voltage at both terminals of the coil please...any ideas .

Replies:

From : max dodge

post them to a web host. so far you have lots of excuses and accusations and little proof. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author lol like you back up anything you say. problem is that i cant post binaries to a non-binary group. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving you claimed that i did not provide the correct procedure. please provide pictures of the fsm where it contradicts what i said. no pics no proof. more lies. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author i gave you proof in a few steps you neglected to provide probably because you didnt understand what the fsm was telling you to do. i also have yet to see anything to back up your false accusations and i know that i never will. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i dont see any pics as proof yet. have a nice day. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author no i didnt. at least not in your mind but out here in reality you give bad advice all the time. there really is a big difference between reality and maxworld. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. lol what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil wont show voltage all the time. because it cannot but feel free to prove me wrong and show me the formula that says any voltage can exist where resistance to ground is zero. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max because nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground not the ecu. what he suggested is common practice. what you suggested is foolish. lol now look at who is lying. please indicate exactly where i ever said to ground the ecu. once again you alligator mouth is overrunning that hummingbird ass. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. ok if it matters who he replied to youll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. the thread history doesnt lie unlike you. but you said that you never told him to use a ground wire so how could it be to one of yours you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! my repeat statements are because there simply isnt anything new in most of your drivel. as such the same reply works well and saves keyboard time. you call it drivel others call it truth especially in this thread. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing key steps as well. you should really stick to transmissions because you really dont know shit about electrical systems. care to prove i misquoted from the fsm if you dont post pics of the exact sections of the fsm that you think i misquoted you are lying again. i dont have your 75 manual but you never mentioned checking the pickup or coil to ground to look for shorts so you in fact misquoted what the fsm procedure actually is. meantime i have my 1975 fsm sitting right here. once you post pics of where im full of shit ill be glad to post pics of exactly what i said. but you didnt quote it completely which indicates that you really didnt understand what it was trying to do. meantime you go ahead and spin your lies. the only lies are the ones you created in your imagination. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tbone

thanks for the offer budd but until maxi is willing to back up the crap he has been spewing out in this thread it really isnt worth the time. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving send them to me tom. i can. -- budd cochran romans 323 romans 623 john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 lol like you back up anything you say. problem is that i cant post binaries to a non-binary group. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving you claimed that i did not provide the correct procedure. please provide pictures of the fsm where it contradicts what i said. no pics no proof. more lies. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author i gave you proof in a few steps you neglected to provide probably because you didnt understand what the fsm was telling you to do. i also have yet to see anything to back up your false accusations and i know that i never will. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i dont see any pics as proof yet. have a nice day. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author no i didnt. at least not in your mind but out here in reality you give bad advice all the time. there really is a big difference between reality and maxworld. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. lol what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil wont show voltage all the time. because it cannot but feel free to prove me wrong and show me the formula that says any voltage can exist where resistance to ground is zero. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max because nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground not the ecu. what he suggested is common practice. what you suggested is foolish. lol now look at who is lying. please indicate exactly where i ever said to ground the ecu. once again you alligator mouth is overrunning that hummingbird ass. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. ok if it matters who he replied to youll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. the thread history doesnt lie unlike you. but you said that you never told him to use a ground wire so how could it be to one of yours you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! my repeat statements are because there simply isnt anything new in most of your drivel. as such the same reply works well and saves keyboard time. you call it drivel others call it truth especially in this thread. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing key steps as well. you should really stick to transmissions because you really dont know shit about electrical systems. care to prove i misquoted from the fsm if you dont post pics of the exact sections of the fsm that you think i misquoted you are lying again. i dont have your 75 manual but you never mentioned checking the pickup or coil to ground to look for shorts so you in fact misquoted what the fsm procedure actually is. meantime i have my 1975 fsm sitting right here. once you post pics of where im full of shit ill be glad to post pics of exactly what i said. but you didnt quote it completely which indicates that you really didnt understand what it was trying to do. meantime you go ahead and spin your lies. the only lies are the ones you created in your imagination. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : max dodge

thanks for the offer budd but until maxi is willing to back up the crap he has been spewing out in this thread it really isnt worth the time. you claimed that i did not provide the correct procedure. please provide pictures of the fsm where it contradicts what i said. no pics no proof. more lies. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author thanks for the offer budd but until maxi is willing to back up the crap he has been spewing out in this thread it really isnt worth the time. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving send them to me tom. i can. -- budd cochran romans 323 romans 623 john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 lol like you back up anything you say. problem is that i cant post binaries to a non-binary group. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving you claimed that i did not provide the correct procedure. please provide pictures of the fsm where it contradicts what i said. no pics no proof. more lies. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author i gave you proof in a few steps you neglected to provide probably because you didnt understand what the fsm was telling you to do. i also have yet to see anything to back up your false accusations and i know that i never will. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i dont see any pics as proof yet. have a nice day. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author no i didnt. at least not in your mind but out here in reality you give bad advice all the time. there really is a big difference between reality and maxworld. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. lol what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil wont show voltage all the time. because it cannot but feel free to prove me wrong and show me the formula that says any voltage can exist where resistance to ground is zero. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max because nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground not the ecu. what he suggested is common practice. what you suggested is foolish. lol now look at who is lying. please indicate exactly where i ever said to ground the ecu. once again you alligator mouth is overrunning that hummingbird ass. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. ok if it matters who he replied to youll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. the thread history doesnt lie unlike you. but you said that you never told him to use a ground wire so how could it be to one of yours you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! my repeat statements are because there simply isnt anything new in most of your drivel. as such the same reply works well and saves keyboard time. you call it drivel others call it truth especially in this thread. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing key steps as well. you should really stick to transmissions because you really dont know shit about electrical systems. care to prove i misquoted from the fsm if you dont post pics of the exact sections of the fsm that you think i misquoted you are lying again. i dont have your 75 manual but you never mentioned checking the pickup or coil to ground to look for shorts so you in fact misquoted what the fsm procedure actually is. meantime i have my 1975 fsm sitting right here. once you post pics of where im full of shit ill be glad to post pics of exactly what i said. but you didnt quote it completely which indicates that you really didnt understand what it was trying to do. meantime you go ahead and spin your lies. the only lies are the ones you created in your imagination. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

you said you couldnt post a pic i can. ya wanna back up your claim or not if max needs the service he has the same option if needed but i dont think he does. -- budd cochran romans 323 romans 623 john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 thanks for the offer budd but until maxi is willing to back up the crap he has been spewing out in this thread it really isnt worth the time. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving send them to me tom. i can. -- budd cochran romans 323 romans 623 john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 lol like you back up anything you say. problem is that i cant post binaries to a non-binary group. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving you claimed that i did not provide the correct procedure. please provide pictures of the fsm where it contradicts what i said. no pics no proof. more lies. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author i gave you proof in a few steps you neglected to provide probably because you didnt understand what the fsm was telling you to do. i also have yet to see anything to back up your false accusations and i know that i never will. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i dont see any pics as proof yet. have a nice day. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author no i didnt. at least not in your mind but out here in reality you give bad advice all the time. there really is a big difference between reality and maxworld. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. lol what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil wont show voltage all the time. because it cannot but feel free to prove me wrong and show me the formula that says any voltage can exist where resistance to ground is zero. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max because nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground not the ecu. what he suggested is common practice. what you suggested is foolish. lol now look at who is lying. please indicate exactly where i ever said to ground the ecu. once again you alligator mouth is overrunning that hummingbird ass. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. ok if it matters who he replied to youll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. the thread history doesnt lie unlike you. but you said that you never told him to use a ground wire so how could it be to one of yours you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! my repeat statements are because there simply isnt anything new in most of your drivel. as such the same reply works well and saves keyboard time. you call it drivel others call it truth especially in this thread. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing key steps as well. you should really stick to transmissions because you really dont know shit about electrical systems. care to prove i misquoted from the fsm if you dont post pics of the exact sections of the fsm that you think i misquoted you are lying again. i dont have your 75 manual but you never mentioned checking the pickup or coil to ground to look for shorts so you in fact misquoted what the fsm procedure actually is. meantime i have my 1975 fsm sitting right here. once you post pics of where im full of shit ill be glad to post pics of exactly what i said. but you didnt quote it completely which indicates that you really didnt understand what it was trying to do. meantime you go ahead and spin your lies. the only lies are the ones you created in your imagination. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving *** free account sponsored by secureix.com *** *** encrypt your internet usage with a free vpn account from http//www.secureix.com *** .

From : max dodge

if this is the standard mopar electronic ign system check three things. ballast resister you should have .5 ohm resistance on one side 5.0 on the other wires disconnected. harness to the ecu five pin connector with phillips screw must be disconnected while ign is off. pickup coil resistance across this should be 150-900 ohm measured at cavity 4 and 5 in the harness connecting to the ecu 1 being in the pointed end. if it fails repeat test at distributor connection if its good suspect wiring if bad replace. air gap is set using a brass or plastic feeler no steel to .008. 2 3 1 4 5 ecu harness ign on....cavity 1 2 and 3 should show battery voltage +/- 1 volt. check ecu ground by finding no resistance to ground on number five pin 1 is in the pointed end. a no ground condition when ground is known to be good indicates ecu failure. 3 2 1 5 4 tips a bad ballast resister can cause a crank but no start conditon and cost very little. always carry a spare in the glove box as insurance. a pickup coil can do this and it may also cause a hard start when engine is warm. never use a steel feeler to set airgap as it magnetizes the reluctor causing a no start condition. brass feelers are available from kd tools among others sold in bubble packs at auto parts stores. the ecu is usually not the cause unless it fails to ground. check ground by making sure bare metal is on both the case and the mounting point on the truck. an ecu cost around $25 iirc and is also cheap insurance. biggest tip if you dont already get a cheap but decent multimeter they are indespensible. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author well its been a loooong time since ive been at this group! of course i need some help. 82 w150 318 2bbl no lean burn. no spark. i have voltage at both +/- at the coil pull the coil wire of the distrib and hold near ground and still no spark. replaced coil 2 different ones! and coil wire...still no spark. also replaced ballast resister and ecu i always carry spares. i even ran a jumper straight from the ballast resister to the coil + thnking a bad wire and still nothing. i am going nuts! how can i have no spark when there is voltage at both terminals of the coil please...any ideas .

From : cordobaman

hey max--nice to see youre still around... appreciate the response results of your tests below. max dodge wrote if this is the standard mopar electronic ign system check three things. ballast resister you should have .5 ohm resistance on one side 5.0 on the other wires disconnected. one sided version ok just replaced anyway. harness to the ecu five pin connector with phillips screw must be disconnected while ign is off. pickup coil resistance across this should be 150-900 ohm measured at cavity 4 and 5 in the harness connecting to the ecu 1 being in the pointed end. if it fails repeat test at distributor connection if its good suspect wiring if bad replace. air gap is set using a brass or plastic feeler no steel to .008. 259 ohms 2 3 1 4 5 ecu harness ign on....cavity 1 2 and 3 should show battery voltage +/- 1 volt. 12.6v at 1 & 2 i have no pin 3 mines the 4 pin ecu check ecu ground by finding no resistance to ground on number five pin 1 is in the pointed end. a no ground condition when ground is known to be good indicates ecu failure. no continuity between pin 5 and ground. this is with my spare ecu. i have voltage at both +/- of the ignition coil. how can i get no spark even taking the distrib out of the pic and holding the coil wire near ground i still get bo spark. the truck ran fine last weekend. parked it and it sat untouched for a week. now i have this. strange... keep the ideas comin! .

From : cordobaman

easy enuf to run a jumper from the ecu body to the -bat terminal...will try that in the am. thanks. .

From : max dodge

even easier to pop it off the firewall or where ever and clean the rust from both surfaces. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author easy enuf to run a jumper from the ecu body to the -bat terminal...will try that in the am. thanks. .

From : max dodge

ok i see you have no continuity between pin 5 and ground. this is with my spare ecu. you must have continuity here. no ground here and the system does not work. one of two things cause this bad ecu or bad ground. on an 1982 truck that sat a week its possible rust has broken the ground connection. not sure what you mean by spare but the one on the truck running the system must be grounded. the only other possibility is wiring being broken somewhere. i have a 1975 fsm which shows the typical chrysler electronic ignition system but if you find a 1982 fsm that would be better. then you can check all circuits for continuity using the factory wiring diagram. however if i had to guess i bet the ground is not working due to rust. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author hey max--nice to see youre still around... appreciate the response results of your tests below. max dodge wrote if this is the standard mopar electronic ign system check three things. ballast resister you should have .5 ohm resistance on one side 5.0 on the other wires disconnected. one sided version ok just replaced anyway. harness to the ecu five pin connector with phillips screw must be disconnected while ign is off. pickup coil resistance across this should be 150-900 ohm measured at cavity 4 and 5 in the harness connecting to the ecu 1 being in the pointed end. if it fails repeat test at distributor connection if its good suspect wiring if bad replace. air gap is set using a brass or plastic feeler no steel to .008. 259 ohms 2 3 1 4 5 ecu harness ign on....cavity 1 2 and 3 should show battery voltage +/- 1 volt. 12.6v at 1 & 2 i have no pin 3 mines the 4 pin ecu check ecu ground by finding no resistance to ground on number five pin 1 is in the pointed end. a no ground condition when ground is known to be good indicates ecu failure. no continuity between pin 5 and ground. this is with my spare ecu. i have voltage at both +/- of the ignition coil. how can i get no spark even taking the distrib out of the pic and holding the coil wire near ground i still get bo spark. the truck ran fine last weekend. parked it and it sat untouched for a week. now i have this. strange... keep the ideas comin! .

From : tbone

you have +12v on both sides of the coil because there is no ground available. the ignition works by switching the ground on and off on the coil primary and yours is in a switched off mode. i dont remember what type of transistor it is using so this may be normal when the engine is not cranking and if so would indicate either a bad pickup coil or reluctor star shaped wheel in the distributor otherwise it could be a bad connection between the coil negative and the ecu. it could also be that the pickup coil is loose and has moved to far away from the reluctor to send a strong enough trigger signal to the ecu. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving well its been a loooong time since ive been at this group! of course i need some help. 82 w150 318 2bbl no lean burn. no spark. i have voltage at both +/- at the coil pull the coil wire of the distrib and hold near ground and still no spark. replaced coil 2 different ones! and coil wire...still no spark. also replaced ballast resister and ecu i always carry spares. i even ran a jumper straight from the ballast resister to the coil + thnking a bad wire and still nothing. i am going nuts! how can i have no spark when there is voltage at both terminals of the coil please...any ideas .

From : max dodge

you have +12v on both sides of the coil because there is no ground available. hell have 12v on both sides because the switch isnt inside the coil. since he has voltage on both sides of the coil its an indication that the primary side is good since it should have complete circuit through it. resistance according to spec should be about 1.6 to 1.8 ohms for prestolite and 1.4 to 1.55 for essex on the primary side. this would be found during testing by looking for battery voltage on the #2 cavity on the ecu connector. this comes from the ignition switch. switching is inside the ecu. the ignition works by switching the ground on and off on the coil primary and yours is in a switched off mode. i dont remember what type of transistor it is using so this may be normal when the engine is not cranking and if so would indicate either a bad pickup coil or reluctor star shaped wheel in the distributor otherwise it could be a bad connection between the coil negative and the ecu. it could also be that the pickup coil is loose and has moved to far away from the reluctor to send a strong enough trigger signal to the ecu. all of which can be found with the tests i described. id bet on a rusted ground for the ecu or a pickup coil failure assuming all wires are still in good shape. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author you have +12v on both sides of the coil because there is no ground available. the ignition works by switching the ground on and off on the coil primary and yours is in a switched off mode. i dont remember what type of transistor it is using so this may be normal when the engine is not cranking and if so would indicate either a bad pickup coil or reluctor star shaped wheel in the distributor otherwise it could be a bad connection between the coil negative and the ecu. it could also be that the pickup coil is loose and has moved to far away from the reluctor to send a strong enough trigger signal to the ecu. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving well its been a loooong time since ive been at this group! of course i need some help. 82 w150 318 2bbl no lean burn. no spark. i have voltage at both +/- at the coil pull the coil wire of the distrib and hold near ground and still no spark. replaced coil 2 different ones! and coil wire...still no spark. also replaced ballast resister and ecu i always carry spares. i even ran a jumper straight from the ballast resister to the coil + thnking a bad wire and still nothing. i am going nuts! how can i have no spark when there is voltage at both terminals of the coil please...any ideas .

From : cordobaman

ok. my spare ecu must be dead. no continuity between pin 5 and its body. the old ecu does have continuity between pin 5 and its body do i wire-brushed the mount bolts and firewall. good continuity between pin 5 and ground now. still no start/spark. now...i noticed that there was some ooze on the firewall starting directly under the bottom of the ecu. also a rusty spot on the ecu at the same spot. im on my way to the parts store for a new ecu unless someone has another test to run first thanks all! .

From : cordobaman

cordobaman wrote im on my way to the parts store for a new ecu unless someone has another test to run first no go with the new ecu..and its cold and snowing like mad. obviously thowing parts at it isnt the answer so ill have to find my gremlin in the wiring somewhere... .

From : max dodge

according to the fsm the only other thing that can be wrong is the coil. the fsm actually suggests swapping out the ecu and then the coil if the new ecu doesnt work. beyond that ring out the wiring and see if there are any shorts. given that im looking at 1975 info you should find a 1982 manual if at all possible. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author cordobaman wrote im on my way to the parts store for a new ecu unless someone has another test to run first no go with the new ecu..and its cold and snowing like mad. obviously thowing parts at it isnt the answer so ill have to find my gremlin in the wiring somewhere... .

From : tbone

you have +12v on both sides of the coil because there is no ground available. hell have 12v on both sides because the switch isnt inside the coil. what in the hell are you talking about max the coil not being grounded is the only reason that he is getting 12v on both sides. you really need to pick up a little electrical theory here dude. since he has voltage on both sides of the coil its an indication that the primary side is good since it should have complete circuit through it. resistance according to spec should be about 1.6 to 1.8 ohms for prestolite and 1.4 to 1.55 for essex on the primary side. if the internals of the coil are ok or completely shorted he will still get 12v on both sides if the negative terminal is not grounded so getting 12v on both sides of the coil only indicates that the coil is not open not that it is good. it also indicates that the coil primary is not grounded at that point which may also be normal when the engine is not running. your resistance measurement is the only way to tell if the primary side is good. this would be found during testing by looking for battery voltage on the #2 cavity on the ecu connector. this comes from the ignition switch. switching is inside the ecu. i think that i already said that but it is the ground that is switched not the hot side. the ignition works by switching the ground on and off on the coil primary and yours is in a switched off mode. i dont remember what type of transistor it is using so this may be normal when the engine is not cranking and if so would indicate either a bad pickup coil or reluctor star shaped wheel in the distributor otherwise it could be a bad connection between the coil negative and the ecu. it could also be that the pickup coil is loose and has moved to far away from the reluctor to send a strong enough trigger signal to the ecu. all of which can be found with the tests i described. id bet on a rusted ground for the ecu or a pickup coil failure assuming all wires are still in good shape. i doubt that the ground on the ecu has anything to do with it as he has already replaced it and simply removing and retightening the ecu should have cleaned up that ground enough to work. it could be a pickup coil failure or a wiring problem but i doubt much else. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : max dodge

just because you told him to do it doesnt mean that he did so i asked. are you awake yup i read his reply where he listed what he did in reply to my post. just checking. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author did you try replacing the pickup coil in the distributor or at least check for continuity between the two pins coming from the distributor part of the test procedure that i listed for him does exactly that. it does not have perfect continuity and i listed the resistance value as well. you awake and ok just because you told him to do it doesnt mean that he did so i asked. are you awake -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : cordobaman

interesting idea... test the coil while cranking see if the ign switch feeds 12v during cranking as well as run. you will never get 12v when cranking as the starter motor draws too much current. that is why the ballast resistor is bypassed during cranking to boost the voltage up as much as possible. what he really should do is put a dwell meter across the coil and crank it. if he gets a valid reading then the primary side of the circuit is ok. i got about 6-1/2 volts at the prime coil + while cranking...measured before i replaced the coil and not since. as far as it being the pu coil/reluctor those are after the primary coil and i am not getting a spark out it when holding the coil wire near ground during crank. heres a scan from the fsm of the wiring diagram http//www.geocities.com/thecordobaman/82dodge.jpg note that i have the single pickup system in my distrib the diagram in the book is for the dual style however everything else is the same. as soon as the wind/snow dies down im going to start the fsm troubleshoot proceure all over again fresh. .

From : tbone

did you try replacing the pickup coil in the distributor or at least check for continuity between the two pins coming from the distributor -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving cordobaman wrote im on my way to the parts store for a new ecu unless someone has another test to run first no go with the new ecu..and its cold and snowing like mad. obviously thowing parts at it isnt the answer so ill have to find my gremlin in the wiring somewhere... .

From : max dodge

did you try replacing the pickup coil in the distributor or at least check for continuity between the two pins coming from the distributor part of the test procedure that i listed for him does exactly that. it does not have perfect continuity and i listed the resistance value as well. you awake and ok -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author did you try replacing the pickup coil in the distributor or at least check for continuity between the two pins coming from the distributor -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving cordobaman wrote im on my way to the parts store for a new ecu unless someone has another test to run first no go with the new ecu..and its cold and snowing like mad. obviously thowing parts at it isnt the answer so ill have to find my gremlin in the wiring somewhere... .

From : tbone

did you try replacing the pickup coil in the distributor or at least check for continuity between the two pins coming from the distributor part of the test procedure that i listed for him does exactly that. it does not have perfect continuity and i listed the resistance value as well. you awake and ok just because you told him to do it doesnt mean that he did so i asked. are you awake -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tbone

what in the hell are you talking about max the coil not being grounded is the only reason that he is getting 12v on both sides. you really need to pick up a little electrical theory here dude. and you need to look at hte wiring diagram. coil on this set up is fed from the ignition switch so its hot on both sides unless it has a break in the windings. it is switched at ground you knew that! and as such will be hot on both sides no matter what the switch position is. i am aware of the wiring max and if you understood it you would realise that it is impossible for 12v to be on both sides of the coil at all times. when the switch is on or conducting the voltage on the negative side will be just about zero as the coil will drop the voltage and for that matter even the positive side will not be at 12v due to a voltage drop from the ballast resistor. if the internals of the coil are ok or completely shorted he will still get 12v on both sides if the negative terminal is not grounded so getting 12v on both sides of the coil only indicates that the coil is not open not that it is good. it also indicates that the coil primary is not grounded at that point which may also be normal when the engine is not running. your resistance measurement is the only way to tell if the primary side is good. correct but the voltage reading on both sides indicates that the circuit not the coil is functioning as it should. how do you know if the circuit is not conducting and never does then something is wrong and that 12v on both sides means little only that it is not completely dead. i think that i already said that but it is the ground that is switched not the hot side. precisely why the coil will have 12v on both positive and negative terminals. you need to do a little review of a simple circuit to see how wrong you are here. if one side is grounded then there will be no measurable voltage on that side so during the non-conducting phase you would be correct but during the conducting phase coil build up the ground side has to be zero. i doubt that the ground on the ecu has anything to do with it as he has already replaced it and simply removing and retightening the ecu should have cleaned up that ground enough to work. it could be a pickup coil failure or a wiring problem but i doubt much else. personal experience tells me you could be wrong on the rust issue. test results posted by the op tell me you are wrong on the pickup coil. i could be but i doubt it. as for the pickup coil since he replaced everything but the pickup and reluctor it looks like the most likely cause. if it is a ground issue just put a continuity tester on one of the bolts holding the ecu and the other side on the negative of the battery. if he has continuity then he has a ground simple as that. that leaves coil and wiring issues as i stated previously. interesting idea... test the coil while cranking see if the ign switch feeds 12v during cranking as well as run. you will never get 12v when cranking as the starter motor draws too much current. that is why the ballast resistor is bypassed during cranking to boost the voltage up as much as possible. what he really should do is put a dwell meter across the coil and crank it. if he gets a valid reading then the primary side of the circuit is ok. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : max dodge

what in the hell are you talking about max the coil not being grounded is the only reason that he is getting 12v on both sides. you really need to pick up a little electrical theory here dude. and you need to look at hte wiring diagram. coil on this set up is fed from the ignition switch so its hot on both sides unless it has a break in the windings. it is switched at ground you knew that! and as such will be hot on both sides no matter what the switch position is. if the internals of the coil are ok or completely shorted he will still get 12v on both sides if the negative terminal is not grounded so getting 12v on both sides of the coil only indicates that the coil is not open not that it is good. it also indicates that the coil primary is not grounded at that point which may also be normal when the engine is not running. your resistance measurement is the only way to tell if the primary side is good. correct but the voltage reading on both sides indicates that the circuit not the coil is functioning as it should. i think that i already said that but it is the ground that is switched not the hot side. precisely why the coil will have 12v on both positive and negative terminals. i doubt that the ground on the ecu has anything to do with it as he has already replaced it and simply removing and retightening the ecu should have cleaned up that ground enough to work. it could be a pickup coil failure or a wiring problem but i doubt much else. personal experience tells me you could be wrong on the rust issue. test results posted by the op tell me you are wrong on the pickup coil. that leaves coil and wiring issues as i stated previously. interesting idea... test the coil while cranking see if the ign switch feeds 12v during cranking as well as run. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author you have +12v on both sides of the coil because there is no ground available. hell have 12v on both sides because the switch isnt inside the coil. what in the hell are you talking about max the coil not being grounded is the only reason that he is getting 12v on both sides. you really need to pick up a little electrical theory here dude. since he has voltage on both sides of the coil its an indication that the primary side is good since it should have complete circuit through it. resistance according to spec should be about 1.6 to 1.8 ohms for prestolite and 1.4 to 1.55 for essex on the primary side. if the internals of the coil are ok or completely shorted he will still get 12v on both sides if the negative terminal is not grounded so getting 12v on both sides of the coil only indicates that the coil is not open not that it is good. it also indicates that the coil primary is not grounded at that point which may also be normal when the engine is not running. your resistance measurement is the only way to tell if the primary side is good. this would be found during testing by looking for battery voltage on the #2 cavity on the ecu connector. this comes from the ignition switch. switching is inside the ecu. i think that i already said that but it is the ground that is switched not the hot side. the ignition works by switching the ground on and off on the coil primary and yours is in a switched off mode. i dont remember what type of transistor it is using so this may be normal when the engine is not cranking and if so would indicate either a bad pickup coil or reluctor star shaped wheel in the distributor otherwise it could be a bad connection between the coil negative and the ecu. it could also be that the pickup coil is loose and has moved to far away from the reluctor to send a strong enough trigger signal to the ecu. all of which can be found with the tests i described. id bet on a rusted ground for the ecu or a pickup coil failure assuming all wires are still in good shape. i doubt that the ground on the ecu has anything to do with it as he has already replaced it and simply removing and retightening the ecu should have cleaned up that ground enough to work. it could be a pickup coil failure or a wiring problem but i doubt much else. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tbone

and you make lots of claims but yet are unable to back a single one of them up. i know better than to follow your crap anymore. when you have the ability to back up what you say you do so as in the mercedes thread but here all you can do is spin. hell even the op bailed out when you started this childish crap. god forbid someone else has a different idea that yours especially when you thing the other person may be right. well since the op bailed out of this now childish thread so will i so as i said to budd feel free to have the last word. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving post them to a web host. so far you have lots of excuses and accusations and little proof. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author lol like you back up anything you say. problem is that i cant post binaries to a non-binary group. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving you claimed that i did not provide the correct procedure. please provide pictures of the fsm where it contradicts what i said. no pics no proof. more lies. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author i gave you proof in a few steps you neglected to provide probably because you didnt understand what the fsm was telling you to do. i also have yet to see anything to back up your false accusations and i know that i never will. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i dont see any pics as proof yet. have a nice day. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author no i didnt. at least not in your mind but out here in reality you give bad advice all the time. there really is a big difference between reality and maxworld. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. lol what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil wont show voltage all the time. because it cannot but feel free to prove me wrong and show me the formula that says any voltage can exist where resistance to ground is zero. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max because nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground not the ecu. what he suggested is common practice. what you suggested is foolish. lol now look at who is lying. please indicate exactly where i ever said to ground the ecu. once again you alligator mouth is overrunning that hummingbird ass. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. ok if it matters who he replied to youll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. the thread history doesnt lie unlike you. but you said that you never told him to use a ground wire so how could it be to one of yours you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! my repeat statements are because there simply isnt anything new in most of your drivel. as such the same reply works well and saves keyboard time. you call it drivel others call it truth especially in this thread. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing key steps as well. you should really stick to transmissions because you really dont know shit about electrical systems. care to prove i misquoted from the fsm if you dont post pics of the exact sections of the fsm that you think i misquoted you are lying again. i dont have your 75 manual but you never mentioned checking the pickup or coil to ground to look for shorts so you in fact misquoted what the fsm procedure actually is. meantime i have my 1975 fsm sitting right here. once you post pics of where im full of shit ill be glad to post pics of exactly what i said. but you didnt quote it completely which indicates that you really didnt understand what it was trying to do. meantime you go ahead and spin your lies. the only lies are the ones you created in your imagination. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : max dodge

i got about 6-1/2 volts at the prime coil + while cranking...measured before i replaced the coil and not since. as far as it being the pu coil/reluctor those are after the primary coil and i am not getting a spark out it when holding the coil wire near ground during crank. 6.5v is too low. look for a problem between the battery and the ignition switch and then to the ballast resister and then to the coil positive. this voltage would indicate that cavity two isnt getting battery voltage like it should to pass the test procedure. heres a scan from the fsm of the wiring diagram http//www.geocities.com/thecordobaman/82dodge.jpg note that i have the single pickup system in my distrib the diagram in the book is for the dual style however everything else is the same. as soon as the wind/snow dies down im going to start the fsm troubleshoot proceure all over again fresh. cavity two will be a problem. trace back through coil negative coil positive ballast resistor connections if all those fail to show 12v or the required voltage by your fsm mine calls for 12v suspect the ignition switch as the cause. also its possible the ammeter is doing weird things as its in the circuit. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author interesting idea... test the coil while cranking see if the ign switch feeds 12v during cranking as well as run. you will never get 12v when cranking as the starter motor draws too much current. that is why the ballast resistor is bypassed during cranking to boost the voltage up as much as possible. what he really should do is put a dwell meter across the coil and crank it. if he gets a valid reading then the primary side of the circuit is ok. i got about 6-1/2 volts at the prime coil + while cranking...measured before i replaced the coil and not since. as far as it being the pu coil/reluctor those are after the primary coil and i am not getting a spark out it when holding the coil wire near ground during crank. heres a scan from the fsm of the wiring diagram http//www.geocities.com/thecordobaman/82dodge.jpg note that i have the single pickup system in my distrib the diagram in the book is for the dual style however everything else is the same. as soon as the wind/snow dies down im going to start the fsm troubleshoot proceure all over again fresh. .

From : tbone

interesting idea... test the coil while cranking see if the ign switch feeds 12v during cranking as well as run. you will never get 12v when cranking as the starter motor draws too much current. that is why the ballast resistor is bypassed during cranking to boost the voltage up as much as possible. what he really should do is put a dwell meter across the coil and crank it. if he gets a valid reading then the primary side of the circuit is ok. i got about 6-1/2 volts at the prime coil + while cranking...measured before i replaced the coil and not since. that voltage seems a bit on the low side. unplug the ballast resistor and try measuring voltage again while cranking. if you have no voltage then you have a problem with the ignition switch and if it is still at around 6 volts i would reconnect the ballast resistor and attempt a jump start even if it seems to be cranking ok. this could be nothing more than a bad battery. as far as it being the pu coil/reluctor those are after the primary coil and i am not getting a spark out it when holding the coil wire near ground during crank. they are not after the primary circuit in fact they control it. they take the place of the points in a standard ignition system as far as triggering the spark. the difference is that they dont deal with the voltage and current from the coil that points do that is handled by the ecu. did you check the air gap between the reluctor and the pickup coil with a non-magnetic feeler gauge you are not getting spark because either nothing is triggering the coil or the coil is bad. to test the coil connect your jumper wire to the negative side of the coil and with the ignition on and holding the coil wire near ground connect you jumper to ground and then remove it again. you should get a spark every time you remove it from ground. heres a scan from the fsm of the wiring diagram http//www.geocities.com/thecordobaman/82dodge.jpg i am very familiar with this ignition system after dealing with it for many years. note that i have the single pickup system in my distrib the diagram in the book is for the dual style however everything else is the same. that just simplifies the system and removes more possible points of failure. as soon as the wind/snow dies down im going to start the fsm troubleshoot proceure all over again fresh. here is something else to look at. does the distributor rotate when you are cranking the engine i would check this first if you have not already done so. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : max dodge

of course you could test the coil ballast resister ignition switch and all the wiring in between by simply momentarily grounding the negative side of the coil ignition switch in run position to a know good ground while holding the high tension lead coil output near the block grounded you should get a spark when you remove the temporary ground lead on the negative side of the coil. the spark should repeat each time you ground the coil. yup. and when it doesnt happen as the op stated in his original post you test each part of the system to determine the failure. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author of course you could test the coil ballast resister ignition switch and all the wiring in between by simply momentarily grounding the negative side of the coil ignition switch in run position to a know good ground while holding the high tension lead coil output near the block grounded you should get a spark when you remove the temporary ground lead on the negative side of the coil. the spark should repeat each time you ground the coil. what in the hell are you talking about max the coil not being grounded is the only reason that he is getting 12v on both sides. you really need to pick up a little electrical theory here dude. and you need to look at hte wiring diagram. coil on this set up is fed from the ignition switch so its hot on both sides unless it has a break in the windings. it is switched at ground you knew that! and as such will be hot on both sides no matter what the switch position is. i am aware of the wiring max and if you understood it you would realise that it is impossible for 12v to be on both sides of the coil at all times. when the switch is on or conducting the voltage on the negative side will be just about zero as the coil will drop the voltage and for that matter even the positive side will not be at 12v due to a voltage drop from the ballast resistor. if the internals of the coil are ok or completely shorted he will still get 12v on both sides if the negative terminal is not grounded so getting 12v on both sides of the coil only indicates that the coil is not open not that it is good. it also indicates that the coil primary is not grounded at that point which may also be normal when the engine is not running. your resistance measurement is the only way to tell if the primary side is good. correct but the voltage reading on both sides indicates that the circuit not the coil is functioning as it should. how do you know if the circuit is not conducting and never does then something is wrong and that 12v on both sides means little only that it is not completely dead. i think that i already said that but it is the ground that is switched not the hot side. precisely why the coil will have 12v on both positive and negative terminals. you need to do a little review of a simple circuit to see how wrong you are here. if one side is grounded then there will be no measurable voltage on that side so during the non-conducting phase you would be correct but during the conducting phase coil build up the ground side has to be zero. i doubt that the ground on the ecu has anything to do with it as he has already replaced it and simply removing and retightening the ecu should have cleaned up that ground enough to work. it could be a pickup coil failure or a wiring problem but i doubt much else. personal experience tells me you could be wrong on the rust issue. test results posted by the op tell me you are wrong on the pickup coil. i could be but i doubt it. as for the pickup coil since he replaced everything but the pickup and reluctor it looks like the most likely cause. if it is a ground issue just put a continuity tester on one of the bolts holding the ecu and the other side on the negative of the battery. if he has continuity then he has a ground simple as that. that leaves coil and wiring issues as i stated previously. interesting idea... test the coil while cranking see if the ign switch feeds 12v during cranking as well as run. you will never get 12v when cranking as the starter motor draws too much current. that is why the ballast resistor is bypassed during cranking to boost the voltage up as much as possible. what he really should do is put a dwell meter across the coil and crank it. if he gets a valid reading then the primary side of the circuit is ok. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : cordobaman

hey max--nice to see youre still around... appreciate the response results of your tests below. max dodge wrote if this is the standard mopar electronic ign system check three things. ballast resister you should have .5 ohm resistance on one side 5.0 on the other wires disconnected. one sided version ok just replaced anyway. harness to the ecu five pin connector with phillips screw must be disconnected while ign is off. pickup coil resistance across this should be 150-900 ohm measured at cavity 4 and 5 in the harness connecting to the ecu 1 being in the pointed end. if it fails repeat test at distributor connection if its good suspect wiring if bad replace. air gap is set using a brass or plastic feeler no steel to .008. 259 ohms 2 3 1 4 5 ecu harness ign on....cavity 1 2 and 3 should show battery voltage +/- 1 volt. 12.6v at 1 & 2 i have no pin 3 mines the 4 pin ecu check ecu ground by finding no resistance to ground on number five pin 1 is in the pointed end. a no ground condition when ground is known to be good indicates ecu failure. no continuity between pin 5 and ground. this is with my spare ecu. i have voltage at both +/- of the ignition coil. how can i get no spark even taking the distrib out of the pic and holding the coil wire near ground i still get bo spark. the truck ran fine last weekend. parked it and it sat untouched for a week. now i have this. strange... keep the ideas comin! .

From : tbone

lol like you back up anything you say. problem is that i cant post binaries to a non-binary group. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving you claimed that i did not provide the correct procedure. please provide pictures of the fsm where it contradicts what i said. no pics no proof. more lies. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author i gave you proof in a few steps you neglected to provide probably because you didnt understand what the fsm was telling you to do. i also have yet to see anything to back up your false accusations and i know that i never will. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i dont see any pics as proof yet. have a nice day. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author no i didnt. at least not in your mind but out here in reality you give bad advice all the time. there really is a big difference between reality and maxworld. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. lol what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil wont show voltage all the time. because it cannot but feel free to prove me wrong and show me the formula that says any voltage can exist where resistance to ground is zero. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max because nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground not the ecu. what he suggested is common practice. what you suggested is foolish. lol now look at who is lying. please indicate exactly where i ever said to ground the ecu. once again you alligator mouth is overrunning that hummingbird ass. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. ok if it matters who he replied to youll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. the thread history doesnt lie unlike you. but you said that you never told him to use a ground wire so how could it be to one of yours you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! my repeat statements are because there simply isnt anything new in most of your drivel. as such the same reply works well and saves keyboard time. you call it drivel others call it truth especially in this thread. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing key steps as well. you should really stick to transmissions because you really dont know shit about electrical systems. care to prove i misquoted from the fsm if you dont post pics of the exact sections of the fsm that you think i misquoted you are lying again. i dont have your 75 manual but you never mentioned checking the pickup or coil to ground to look for shorts so you in fact misquoted what the fsm procedure actually is. meantime i have my 1975 fsm sitting right here. once you post pics of where im full of shit ill be glad to post pics of exactly what i said. but you didnt quote it completely which indicates that you really didnt understand what it was trying to do. meantime you go ahead and spin your lies. the only lies are the ones you created in your imagination. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tbone

he checked the resistance but i dont see where he checked the gap. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving just because you told him to do it doesnt mean that he did so i asked. are you awake yup i read his reply where he listed what he did in reply to my post. just checking. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author did you try replacing the pickup coil in the distributor or at least check for continuity between the two pins coming from the distributor part of the test procedure that i listed for him does exactly that. it does not have perfect continuity and i listed the resistance value as well. you awake and ok just because you told him to do it doesnt mean that he did so i asked. are you awake -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tbone

of course you could test the coil ballast resister ignition switch and all the wiring in between by simply momentarily grounding the negative side of the coil ignition switch in run position to a know good ground while holding the high tension lead coil output near the block grounded you should get a spark when you remove the temporary ground lead on the negative side of the coil. the spark should repeat each time you ground the coil. the spark will occur every time you remove the ground. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tbone

of course you could test the coil ballast resister ignition switch and all the wiring in between by simply momentarily grounding the negative side of the coil ignition switch in run position to a know good ground while holding the high tension lead coil output near the block grounded you should get a spark when you remove the temporary ground lead on the negative side of the coil. the spark should repeat each time you ground the coil. yup. and when it doesnt happen as the op stated in his original post you test each part of the system to determine the failure. it will happen unless the coil itself is defective as he already said that he has 12v on the coil. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : max dodge

heres a scan from the fsm of the wiring diagram http//www.geocities.com/thecordobaman/82dodge.jpg i am very familiar with this ignition system after dealing with it for many years. hahahahahahahahahahhaha no you arent. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author interesting idea... test the coil while cranking see if the ign switch feeds 12v during cranking as well as run. you will never get 12v when cranking as the starter motor draws too much current. that is why the ballast resistor is bypassed during cranking to boost the voltage up as much as possible. what he really should do is put a dwell meter across the coil and crank it. if he gets a valid reading then the primary side of the circuit is ok. i got about 6-1/2 volts at the prime coil + while cranking...measured before i replaced the coil and not since. that voltage seems a bit on the low side. unplug the ballast resistor and try measuring voltage again while

From : tbone

i am aware of the wiring max and if you understood it you would realise that it is impossible for 12v to be on both sides of the coil at all times. when the switch is on or conducting the voltage on the negative side will be just about zero as the coil will drop the voltage and for that matter even the positive side will not be at 12v due to a voltage drop from the ballast resistor. the odds of seeing that split second where the switch is on are much more in your favor if you have an oscilloscope. since a multimeter is much more commonly used you are very unlikely to see the voltage at anything less than 12v nominal on either side when testing it. this is particularly true with a digital meter. it is not as split second as you might think and a dwell meter will see it just fine. it will also show up on a multi-meter especially a digital one if you set it to ac. correct but the voltage reading on both sides indicates that the circuit not the coil is functioning as it should. how do you know because i understand how it works thats how i know. by what you are saying it really doesnt sound like you understand it all that well. if the circuit is not conducting and never does then something is wrong and that 12v on both sides means little only that it is not completely dead. the presence of 12v on the negative side measured at the connector to the ecu means the circuit is working fine. funny how those factory test procedures actually test what they are designed to test. lol all that shows is that the harness is intact not that the control circuitry or even the ecu is functional. precisely why the coil will have 12v on both positive and negative terminals. you need to do a little review of a simple circuit to see how wrong you are here. crack open the fsm and get back to me on this. i dont need the fsm for this it is far to simple and i have installed these on many mopars both replacing point ignitions and the troublesome lean-burns. if one side is grounded then there will be no measurable voltage on that side so during the non-conducting phase you would be correct but during the conducting phase coil build up the ground side has to be zero. ok do i need to review with you that the circuit is never grounded until the engine is turning and that the circuit is only grounded for a split second this since a build up and collapse of the coil field is designed to happen as quickly as possible. therefore if you want to see the circuit in a grounded condition you need an oscilloscope. at all other times the coil will show 12v nominal on both sides. thats twice that ive explained this to you. one more time and were done here and you fail. i think that you need to take a lesson in coil operations. did you forget what dwell angle means you do know that magnetic fields take time to build right personal experience tells me you could be wrong on the rust issue. test results posted by the op tell me you are wrong on the pickup coil. i could be but i doubt it. yeah because you are never wrong. sure i am just not this time. must you always jump back into your childish mode when someone says something different from your idea btw when have you ever admitted to being wrong about anything as for the pickup coil since he replaced everything but the pickup and reluctor it looks like the most likely cause. except if you had read his test results you would know that the pickup coil had the required resistance. so what that doesnt mean that its position didnt change or that there isnt damage to the reluctor itself. there could also be a short in the pickup to ground but i see that you didnt bother to tell him to check for that. he also needs to unplug the pickup coil from the harness and check for continuity between either lead and a good ground and if any exists the pickup coil is bad iow it had better be an infinite resistance. if it is a ground issue just put a continuity tester on one of the bolts holding the ecu and the other side on the negative of the battery. if he has continuity then he has a ground simple as that. wrong. so wrong its hard to believe you actually posted that. the bolt is not permanently affixed to the ecu or the car body. thus rust can form betwen the bolt and the ecu or between the bolt and the car body. your test only shows how well the bolt is grounded. thus the proper test which i posted from the fsm is to go from pin five to the battery negative and look for continuity. lol complete bs. the ecu gets its ground from those bolts and if they are tight and getting a good ground then the ecu should also be properly grounded. even you fsm says that if the pin 5 ground test fails to tighten the bolts. that leaves coil and wiring issues as i stated previously. interesting idea... test the coil while cranking see if the ign switch fee

From : tbone

i thought that we were done back to your childish reactions again i see but we all know that is your way to admit to being wrong or not knowing everything that you claim to. now go study up in that fsm again maybe you might actually learn how the system works. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving heres a scan from the fsm of the wiring diagram http//www.geocities.com/thecordobaman/82dodge.jpg i am very familiar with this ignition system after dealing with it for many years. hahahahahahahahahahhaha no you arent. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author interesting idea... test the coil while cranking see if the ign switch feeds 12v during cranking as well as run. you will never get 12v when cranking as the starter motor draws too much current. that is why the ballast resistor is bypassed during cranking to boost the voltage up as much as possible. what he really should do is put a dwell meter across the coil and crank it. if he gets a valid reading then the primary side of the circuit is ok. i got about 6-1/2 volts at the prime coil + while cranking...measured before i replaced the coil and not since. that voltage seems a bit on the low side. unplug the ballast resistor and try measuring voltage again while cranking. if you have no voltage then you have a problem with the ignition switch and if it is still at around 6 volts i would reconnect the ballast resistor and attempt a jump start even if it seems to be cranking ok. this could be nothing more than a bad battery. as far as it being the pu coil/reluctor those are after the primary coil and i am not getting a spark out it when holding the coil wire near ground during crank. they are not after the primary circuit in fact they control it. they take the place of the points in a standard ignition system as far as triggering the spark. the difference is that they dont deal with the voltage and current from the coil that points do that is handled by the ecu. did you check the air gap between the reluctor and the pickup coil with a non-magnetic feeler gauge you are not getting spark because either nothing is triggering the coil or the coil is bad. to test the coil connect your jumper wire to the negative side of the coil and with the ignition on and holding the coil wire near ground connect you jumper to ground and then remove it again. you should get a spark every time you remove it from ground. heres a scan from the fsm of the wiring diagram http//www.geocities.com/thecordobaman/82dodge.jpg i am very familiar with this ignition system after dealing with it for many years. note that i have the single pickup system in my distrib the diagram in the book is for the dual style however everything else is the same. that just simplifies the system and removes more possible points of failure. as soon as the wind/snow dies down im going to start the fsm troubleshoot proceure all over again fresh. here is something else to look at. does the distributor rotate when you are cranking the engine i would check this first if you have not already done so. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

interesting idea... test the coil while cranking see if the ign switch feeds 12v during cranking as well as run. you will never get 12v when cranking as the starter motor draws too much current. that is why the ballast resistor is bypassed during cranking to boost the voltage up as much as possible. what he really should do is put a dwell meter across the coil and crank it. if he gets a valid reading then the primary side of the circuit is ok. i got about 6-1/2 volts at the prime coil + while cranking...measured before i replaced the coil and not since. that voltage seems a bit on the low side. unplug the ballast resistor and try measuring voltage again while cranking. if you have no voltage then you have a problem with the ignition switch and if it is still at around 6 volts i would reconnect the ballast resistor and attempt a jump start even if it seems to be cranking ok. this could be nothing more than a bad battery. tom if he disconnects the ballast he wont get any voltage to the ecu or the coil. as far as it being the pu coil/reluctor those are after the primary coil and i am not getting a spark out it when holding the coil wire near ground during crank. they are not after the primary circuit in fact they control it. they take the place of the points in a standard ignition system as far as triggering the spark. the difference is that they dont deal with the voltage and current from the coil that points do that is handled by the ecu. did you check the air gap between the reluctor and the pickup coil with a non-magnetic feeler gauge you are not getting spark because either nothing is triggering the coil or the coil is bad. to test the coil connect your jumper wire to the negative side of the coil and with the ignition on and holding the coil wire near ground connect you jumper to ground and then remove it again. you should get a spark every time you remove it from ground. or he could as max said check the resistance primary + to primary- about 1 ohm. secondary tower to primary - about 1-4 k ohms. heres a scan from the fsm of the wiring diagram http//www.geocities.com/thecordobaman/82dodge.jpg i am very familiar with this ignition system after dealing with it for many years. then how come youre screwing up note that i have the single pickup system in my distrib the diagram in the book is for the dual style however everything else is the same. that just simplifies the system and removes more possible points of failure. as soon as the wind/snow dies down im going to start the fsm troubleshoot proceure all over again fresh. here is something else to look at. does the distributor rotate when you are cranking the engine i would check this first if you have not already done so. gee tom do you think he might have taken the cap off to check rotor / cap condition and maybe bumped the engine over no not you you wouldnt give anyone the credit to do that. budd .

From : tbone

you dont need to connect it to the ecu the coil negative will work just fine and is usually easier to connect to. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving easy enuf to run a jumper from the ecu body to the -bat terminal...will try that in the am. thanks. .

From : tbone

interesting idea... test the coil while cranking see if the ign switch feeds 12v during cranking as well as run. you will never get 12v when cranking as the starter motor draws too much current. that is why the ballast resistor is bypassed during cranking to boost the voltage up as much as possible. what he really should do is put a dwell meter across the coil and crank it. if he gets a valid reading then the primary side of the circuit is ok. i got about 6-1/2 volts at the prime coil + while cranking...measured before i replaced the coil and not since. that voltage seems a bit on the low side. unplug the ballast resistor and try measuring voltage again while cranking. if you have no voltage then you have a problem with the ignition switch and if it is still at around 6 volts i would reconnect the ballast resistor and attempt a jump start even if it seems to be cranking ok. this could be nothing more than a bad battery. tom if he disconnects the ballast he wont get any voltage to the ecu or the coil. that is simply not true. his ecu does not get its voltage from the ballast resistor as he has a single resistor and no pin 3 on his unit. pin 1 gets voltage directly from the ignition switch as does the ballast resistor. the coil does get its voltage from the ballast resistor except when cranking where its voltage also comes directly from the ignition switch! the purpose of this test is to make sure that the ballast resistor bypass during cranking is working. next time understand what you are talking about before jumping in to defend your friend and wind up just making an ass out of yourself. as far as it being the pu coil/reluctor those are after the primary coil and i am not getting a spark out it when holding the coil wire near ground during crank. they are not after the primary circuit in fact they control it. they take the place of the points in a standard ignition system as far as triggering the spark. the difference is that they dont deal with the voltage and current from the coil that points do that is handled by the ecu. did you check the air gap between the reluctor and the pickup coil with a non-magnetic feeler gauge you are not getting spark because either nothing is triggering the coil or the coil is bad. to test the coil connect your jumper wire to the negative side of the coil and with the ignition on and holding the coil wire near ground connect you jumper to ground and then remove it again. you should get a spark every time you remove it from ground. or he could as max said check the resistance primary + to primary- about 1 ohm. secondary tower to primary - about 1-4 k ohms. that still doesnt guarantee that the coil is good as there could be a short to ground in the windings that will not be seen measuring terminal to terminal. heres a scan from the fsm of the wiring diagram http//www.geocities.com/thecordobaman/82dodge.jpg i am very familiar with this ignition system after dealing with it for many years. then how come youre screwing up that would once again be you budd. perhaps you should review the operation before you just jump in and look stupid. note that i have the single pickup system in my distrib the diagram in the book is for the dual style however everything else is the same. that just simplifies the system and removes more possible points of failure. as soon as the wind/snow dies down im going to start the fsm troubleshoot proceure all over again fresh. here is something else to look at. does the distributor rotate when you are cranking the engine i would check this first if you have not already done so. gee tom do you think he might have taken the cap off to check rotor / cap condition and maybe bumped the engine over as a matter of fact i dont know that he did and neither do you. no not you you wouldnt give anyone the credit to do that. you know what they say about assumptions right in many cases it is the obvious that gets overlooked because everyone assumes that it was done when it in fact was not. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : max dodge

you dont need to connect it to the ecu the coil negative will work just fine and is usually easier to connect to. if you are trying to ground the ecu as he is in this case yeah a wire from the ecu body to negative on the battery grounds the ecu connecting the ecu body to the negitive side of the coil would probably really screw up the ecu if it wasnt grounded. if he were trying to ground the coil with this method it would be obvious why the truck never started and might kill the coil. what you suggest is a bad idea. but you know these systems so well ill just sit back and watch you post bullshit some more. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author you dont need to connect it to the ecu the coil negative will work just fine and is usually easier to connect to. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving easy enuf to run a jumper from the ecu body to the -bat terminal...will try that in the am. thanks. .

From : tbone

you dont need to connect it to the ecu the coil negative will work just fine and is usually easier to connect to. if you are trying to ground the ecu as he is in this case yeah a wire from the ecu body to negative on the battery grounds the ecu connecting the ecu body to the negitive side of the coil would probably really screw up the ecu if it wasnt grounded. since he didnt include the text he was referring to i took it as he was going to test the coil itself and if so connecting the temp wire to the coil is easier. if he is attempting to run a wire from the case of the ecu to ground then he is just wasting his time on your bogus advice. if he were trying to ground the coil with this method it would be obvious why the truck never started and might kill the coil. if he was referring to my previous post it will cause no harm to the coil and if he simply grounded it that way then as you said it would not start. what you suggest is a bad idea. once again you speak without actually knowing what it was about. but you know these systems so well ill just sit back and watch you post bullshit some more. lol pkb. if what im saying is bs prove it. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

no tom the mistake was made by you as you did not mention a single thing about needing to hold the key in the start position to supply voltage to the coil to be measured. thank you for screwing up and beginning the name calling as usual. btw the ass is a excellent domesticated beast of burden that is known for loyalty determination and surprising intelligence. and i would rather be compared to an ass than to be compared to you. budd interesting idea... test the coil while cranking see if the ign switch feeds 12v during cranking as well as run. you will never get 12v when cranking as the starter motor draws too much current. that is why the ballast resistor is bypassed during cranking to boost the voltage up as much as possible. what he really should do is put a dwell meter across the coil and crank it. if he gets a valid reading then the primary side of the circuit is ok. i got about 6-1/2 volts at the prime coil + while cranking...measured before i replaced the coil and not since. that voltage seems a bit on the low side. unplug the ballast resistor and try measuring voltage again while cranking. if you have no voltage then you have a problem with the ignition switch and if it is still at around 6 volts i would reconnect the ballast resistor and attempt a jump start even if it seems to be cranking ok. this could be nothing more than a bad battery. tom if he disconnects the ballast he wont get any voltage to the ecu or the coil. that is simply not true. his ecu does not get its voltage from the ballast resistor as he has a single resistor and no pin 3 on his unit. pin 1 gets voltage directly from the ignition switch as does the ballast resistor. the coil does get its voltage from the ballast resistor except when cranking where its voltage also comes directly from the ignition switch! the purpose of this test is to make sure that the ballast resistor bypass during cranking is working. next time understand what you are talking about before jumping in to defend your friend and wind up just making an ass out of yourself. as far as it being the pu coil/reluctor those are after the primary coil and i am not getting a spark out it when holding the coil wire near ground during crank. they are not after the primary circuit in fact they control it. they take the place of the points in a standard ignition system as far as triggering the spark. the difference is that they dont deal with the voltage and current from the coil that points do that is handled by the ecu. did you check the air gap between the reluctor and the pickup coil with a non-magnetic feeler gauge you are not getting spark because either nothing is triggering the coil or the coil is bad. to test the coil connect your jumper wire to the negative side of the coil and with the ignition on and holding the coil wire near ground connect you jumper to ground and then remove it again. you should get a spark every time you remove it from ground. or he could as max said check the resistance primary + to primary- about 1 ohm. secondary tower to primary - about 1-4 k ohms. that still doesnt guarantee that the coil is good as there could be a short to ground in the windings that will not be seen measuring terminal to terminal. heres a scan from the fsm of the wiring diagram http//www.geocities.com/thecordobaman/82dodge.jpg i am very familiar with this ignition system after dealing with it for many years. then how come youre screwing up that would once again be you budd. perhaps you should review the operation before you just jump in and look stupid. note that i have the single pickup system in my distrib the diagram in the book is for the dual style however everything else is the same. that just simplifies the system and removes more possible points of failure. as soon as the wind/snow dies down im going to start the fsm troubleshoot proceure all over again fresh. here is something else to look at. does the distributor rotate when you are cranking the engine i would check this first if you have not already done so. gee tom do you think he might have taken the cap off to check rotor / cap condition and maybe bumped the engine over as a matter of fact i dont know that he did and neither do you. no not you you wouldnt give anyone the credit to do that. you know what they say about assumptions right in many cases it is the obvious that gets overlooked because everyone assumes that it was done when it in fact was not. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tbone

no tom the mistake was made by you as you did not mention a single thing about needing to hold the key in the start position to supply voltage to the coil to be measured. really budd did you miss this that voltage seems a bit on the low side. unplug the ballast resistor and try measuring voltage again while cranking. it is still in the text below without the caps. now perhaps you could explain to the rest of us how to crank the engine without turning the key to the start position unless of course you assumed that he would hotwire the starter. you just keep digging deeper. thank you for screwing up and beginning the name calling as usual. once again you are wrong as i didnt call you names i simply suggested what you were doing to yourself. and speaking of screwing up what about your bs that the ecu gets its power from the ballast resistor and before you say it he already said that he had the 4 pin version of the ecu in the post that you replied to. btw the ass is a excellent domesticated beast of burden that is known for loyalty determination and surprising intelligence. iow the polar opposit of the way you are acting again. grow up budd. and i would rather be compared to an ass than to be compared to you. i guess that you would rather be compared to an ass rather than a man because you are still not man enough to admit to being wrong or jhaving enough class to just shut up. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving interesting idea... test the coil while cranking see if the ign switch feeds 12v during cranking as well as run. you will never get 12v when cranking as the starter motor draws too much current. that is why the ballast resistor is bypassed during cranking to boost the voltage up as much as possible. what he really should do is put a dwell meter across the coil and crank it. if he gets a valid reading then the primary side of the circuit is ok. i got about 6-1/2 volts at the prime coil + while cranking...measured before i replaced the coil and not since. that voltage seems a bit on the low side. unplug the ballast resistor and try measuring voltage again while cranking. if you have no voltage then you have a problem with the ignition switch and if it is still at around 6 volts i would reconnect the ballast resistor and attempt a jump start even if it seems to be cranking ok. this could be nothing more than a bad battery. tom if he disconnects the ballast he wont get any voltage to the ecu or the coil. that is simply not true. his ecu does not get its voltage from the ballast resistor as he has a single resistor and no pin 3 on his unit. pin 1 gets voltage directly from the ignition switch as does the ballast resistor. the coil does get its voltage from the ballast resistor except when cranking where its voltage also comes directly from the ignition switch! the purpose of this test is to make sure that the ballast resistor bypass during cranking is working. next time understand what you are talking about before jumping in to defend your friend and wind up just making an ass out of yourself. as far as it being the pu coil/reluctor those are after the primary coil and i am not getting a spark out it when holding the coil wire near ground during crank. they are not after the primary circuit in fact they control it. they take the place of the points in a standard ignition system as far as triggering the spark. the difference is that they dont deal with the voltage and current from the coil that points do that is handled by the ecu. did you check the air gap between the reluctor and the pickup coil with a non-magnetic feeler gauge you are not getting spark because either nothing is triggering the coil or the coil is bad. to test the coil connect your jumper wire to the negative side of the coil and with the ignition on and holding the coil wire near ground connect you jumper to ground and then remove it again. you should get a spark every time you remove it from ground. or he could as max said check the resistance primary + to primary- about 1 ohm. secondary tower to primary - about 1-4 k ohms. that still doesnt guarantee that the coil is good as there could be a short to ground in the windings that will not be seen measuring terminal to terminal. heres a scan from the fsm of the wiring diagram http//www.geocities.com/thecordobaman/82dodge.jpg i am very familiar with this ignition system after dealing with it for many years. then how come youre screwing up that would once again be you budd. perhaps you should review the operation before you just jump in and look stupid. note that i have the single pickup system in my distrib the diagram in the book is for the dual style however everything else is the same. that just simplifies the system and removes more possible poi

From : max dodge

since he didnt include the text he was referring to if you read the thread you would have had context on what he was saying and my answer to him. i took it as he was going to test the coil itself and if so connecting the temp wire to the coil is easier. if he is attempting to run a wire from the case of the ecu to ground then he is just wasting his time on your bogus advice. well since i didnt advise him to use any sort of jumper wire this would be more assuption on your part. what you suggest is a bad idea. once again you speak without actually knowing what it was about. says the one who is about a day behind the rest of us and hasnt been reading everything he wants to reply to. but you know these systems so well ill just sit back and watch you post bullshit some more. lol pkb. if what im saying is bs prove it. you claimed that the coil negative would not have 12v unless grounded. but the fsm clearly states that cavity 2 on the ecu connector will have 12v and the connector is the ground for the coil. as such if its disconnected for the test and you find 12v as specified your claim that the coil negative would only have 12v when grounded is bullshit. go on blabbering we all know you will. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author you dont need to connect it to the ecu the coil negative will work just fine and is usually easier to connect to. if you are trying to ground the ecu as he is in this case yeah a wire from the ecu body to negative on the battery grounds the ecu connecting the ecu body to the negitive side of the coil would probably really screw up the ecu if it wasnt grounded. since he didnt include the text he was referring to i took it as he was going to test the coil itself and if so connecting the temp wire to the coil is easier. if he is attempting to run a wire from the case of the ecu to ground then he is just wasting his time on your bogus advice. if he were trying to ground the coil with this method it would be obvious why the truck never started and might kill the coil. if he was referring to my previous post it will cause no harm to the coil and if he simply grounded it that way then as you said it would not start. what you suggest is a bad idea. once again you speak without actually knowing what it was about. but you know these systems so well ill just sit back and watch you post bullshit some more. lol pkb. if what im saying is bs prove it. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

no tom the mistake was made by you as you did not mention a single thing about needing to hold the key in the start position to supply voltage to the coil to be measured. really budd did you miss this that voltage seems a bit on the low side. unplug the ballast resistor and try measuring voltage again while cranking. it is still in the text below without the caps. now perhaps you could explain to the rest of us how to crank the engine without turning the key to the start position unless of course you assumed that he would hotwire the starter. you just keep digging deeper. ok i missed it so shoot me. but youll never remember me admitting to this or anyother mistake will you thank you for screwing up and beginning the name calling as usual. once again you are wrong as i didnt call you names i simply suggested what you were doing to yourself. and speaking of screwing up what about your bs that the ecu gets its power from the ballast resistor and before you say it he already said that he had the 4 pin version of the ecu in the post that you replied to. my my it was max you accused of that mistake not me. you hate me so much you have to yell at me for things i never did. and you insinuated i was an ass the same as calling me one. btw the ass is a excellent domesticated beast of burden that is known for loyalty determination and surprising intelligence. iow the polar opposit of the way you are acting again. grow up budd. no you grow up and practice the tolerance you liberals accuse everyone else of needing to have. and i would rather be compared to an ass than to be compared to you. i guess that you would rather be compared to an ass rather than a man because you are still not man enough to admit to being wrong or jhaving enough class to just shut up. did someone lie to you about you being a man again no tom i consider you to be the rectum of the group. unwiped hemorrhoidal full of excrement and happiest when youre in the toilet even when in your usual condition of diarrhea of the brain. you brag about being receptive of criticism but you never never are. if anyone was to dare tell you where you screwed up it opens them up for one of your vulagar tirades. max and i seem to be the only ones with the constitution to tolerate your sheer idiocy. well ive wasted my time on you again. i guess i keep hoping for a miracle to take place in you. ah well . . . . budd john 316-17 .

From : tbone

since he didnt include the text he was referring to if you read the thread you would have had context on what he was saying and my answer to him. sorry to burst your bubble maxi but he was replying to both of us. i took it as he was going to test the coil itself and if so connecting the temp wire to the coil is easier. if he is attempting to run a wire from the case of the ecu to ground then he is just wasting his time on your bogus advice. well since i didnt advise him to use any sort of jumper wire this would be more assuption on your part. well if you didnt mention using any sort of jumper wire and his response was clearly referencing the suggested use of one it appears that he was talking to me. what you suggest is a bad idea. once again you speak without actually knowing what it was about. says the one who is about a day behind the rest of us and hasnt been reading everything he wants to reply to. but you know these systems so well ill just sit back and watch you post bullshit some more. lol pkb. if what im saying is bs prove it. you claimed that the coil negative would not have 12v unless grounded. but the fsm clearly states that cavity 2 on the ecu connector will have 12v and the connector is the ground for the coil. as such if its disconnected for the test and you find 12v as specified your claim that the coil negative would only have 12v when grounded is bullshit. i never said that as it would be impossible. i said that the coil had 12v on the negative side because it was not grounded. learn how to read there maxi-boy. go on blabbering we all know you will. likewise. care to dig yourself in a little deeper. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tbone

no tom the mistake was made by you as you did not mention a single thing about needing to hold the key in the start position to supply voltage to the coil to be measured. really budd did you miss this that voltage seems a bit on the low side. unplug the ballast resistor and try measuring voltage again while cranking. it is still in the text below without the caps. now perhaps you could explain to the rest of us how to crank the engine without turning the key to the start position unless of course you assumed that he would hotwire the starter. you just keep digging deeper. ok i missed it so shoot me. but youll never remember me admitting to this or anyother mistake will you if you actually admit to it but i doubt that you ever will. face it budd you jumped in here for no other reason but to defend your buddy and attack me in your all too typical childish manor and were wrong and still not man enough to admit to it. all you can say is that you missed one point but you were actually wrong on everything. thank you for screwing up and beginning the name calling as usual. once again you are wrong as i didnt call you names i simply suggested what you were doing to yourself. and speaking of screwing up what about your bs that the ecu gets its power from the ballast resistor and before you say it he already said that he had the 4 pin version of the ecu in the post that you replied to. my my it was max you accused of that mistake not me. you hate me so much you have to yell at me for things i never did. once again budd did you forget when you said this tom if he disconnects the ballast he wont get any voltage to the ecu or the coil. sorry budd but it was still you and the second part was put in to prevent you from making the claim about pin 3 that doesnt exist on his unit. as for hating you i really dont know you well enough and with the way you have been acting dont really have any desire to. and you insinuated i was an ass the same as calling me one. no i said that you are acting like one and you are. btw the ass is a excellent domesticated beast of burden that is known for loyalty determination and surprising intelligence. iow the polar opposit of the way you are acting again. grow up budd. no you grow up and practice the tolerance you liberals accuse everyone else of needing to have. grow up budd and stop trying to spin it into something else. and i would rather be compared to an ass than to be compared to you. i guess that you would rather be compared to an ass rather than a man because you are still not man enough to admit to being wrong or jhaving enough class to just shut up. did someone lie to you about you being a man again no tom i consider you to be the rectum of the group. unwiped hemorrhoidal full of excrement and happiest when youre in the toilet even when in your usual condition of diarrhea of the brain. now who is the one who resorts to pure name calling who seems to hate who now and btw so much for that admission of error now that you are once again accusing me of having diarrhea of the brain along with the rest of your childish name calling. you brag about being receptive of criticism but you never never are. if anyone was to dare tell you where you screwed up it opens them up for one of your vulagar tirades. max and i seem to be the only ones with the constitution to tolerate your sheer idiocy. the problem here budd is that i am not wrong unlike you and you are just too hatefull to admit to it or even to just shut up and like i said so much for that admission of error but then again it would take a real man to do that. well ive wasted my time on you again. i guess i keep hoping for a miracle to take place in you. ah well . . . . yes budd you did waste time the time it took for everyone to read your typical childish crap which does nothing for the op or anyone else interested in how this ignition works. the sad thing is that once again i let you and the other idiot drag me into this childish arguing again but its sadly as much my fault as anything for allowing it. at least now i eventually realize it and stop like now so feel free to have the last word budd.... -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : max dodge

if you read the thread you would have had context on what he was saying and my answer to him. sorry to burst your bubble maxi but he was replying to both of us. doesnt matter to whom he replied. you still got the jumper wire reference all screwed up and gave bad advice based on a huge assumption on your part. well since i didnt advise him to use any sort of jumper wire this would be more assuption on your part. well if you didnt mention using any sort of jumper wire and his response was clearly referencing the suggested use of one it appears that he was talking to me. doesnt matter to whom he replied. you still got the jumper wire reference all screwed up and gave bad advice based on a huge assumption on your part. likewise. care to dig yourself in a little deeper. the ony thing getting deep in here is your bullshit. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author since he didnt include the text he was referring to if you read the thread you would have had context on what he was saying and my answer to him. sorry to burst your bubble maxi but he was replying to both of us. i took it as he was going to test the coil itself and if so connecting the temp wire to the coil is easier. if he is attempting to run a wire from the case of the ecu to ground then he is just wasting his time on your bogus advice. well since i didnt advise him to use any sort of jumper wire this would be more assuption on your part. well if you didnt mention using any sort of jumper wire and his response was clearly referencing the suggested use of one it appears that he was talking to me. what you suggest is a bad idea. once again you speak without actually knowing what it was about. says the one who is about a day behind the rest of us and hasnt been reading everything he wants to reply to. but you know these systems so well ill just sit back and watch you post bullshit some more. lol pkb. if what im saying is bs prove it. you claimed that the coil negative would not have 12v unless grounded. but the fsm clearly states that cavity 2 on the ecu connector will have 12v and the connector is the ground for the coil. as such if its disconnected for the test and you find 12v as specified your claim that the coil negative would only have 12v when grounded is bullshit. i never said that as it would be impossible. i said that the coil had 12v on the negative side because it was not grounded. learn how to read there maxi-boy. go on blabbering we all know you will. likewise. care to dig yourself in a little deeper. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tbone

if you read the thread you would have had context on what he was saying and my answer to him. sorry to burst your bubble maxi but he was replying to both of us. doesnt matter to whom he replied. you still got the jumper wire reference all screwed up and gave bad advice based on a huge assumption on your part. no i didnt. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max well since i didnt advise him to use any sort of jumper wire this would be more assuption on your part. well if you didnt mention using any sort of jumper wire and his response was clearly referencing the suggested use of one it appears that he was talking to me. doesnt matter to whom he replied. you still got the jumper wire reference all screwed up and gave bad advice based on a huge assumption on your part. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! likewise. care to dig yourself in a little deeper. the ony thing getting deep in here is your bullshit. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing key steps as well. you should really stick to transmissions because you really dont know shit about electrical systems. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

no tom the mistake was made by you as you did not mention a single thing about needing to hold the key in the start position to supply voltage to the coil to be measured. really budd did you miss this that voltage seems a bit on the low side. unplug the ballast resistor and try measuring voltage again while cranking. it is still in the text below without the caps. now perhaps you could explain to the rest of us how to crank the engine without turning the key to the start position unless of course you assumed that he would hotwire the starter. you just keep digging deeper. ok i missed it so shoot me. but youll never remember me admitting to this or anyother mistake will you if you actually admit to it but i doubt that you ever will. buh-wa-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!! with the evidence right in front of you that unlike you i admit my errors you still deny the evidence. thank you for proving your uselessness to the human species. face it budd you jumped in here for no other reason but to defend your buddy and attack me in your all too typical childish manor and were wrong and still not man enough to admit to it. all you can say is that you missed one point but you were actually wrong on everything. face it tom you jumped in because max was giving correct answers and you werent being noticed. thank you for screwing up and beginning the name calling as usual. once again you are wrong as i didnt call you names i simply suggested what you were doing to yourself. and speaking of screwing up what about your bs that the ecu gets its power from the ballast resistor and before you say it he already said that he had the 4 pin version of the ecu in the post that you replied to. my my it was max you accused of that mistake not me. you hate me so much you have to yell at me for things i never did. once again budd did you forget when you said this tom if he disconnects the ballast he wont get any voltage to the ecu or the coil. sorry budd but it was still you and the second part was put in to prevent you from making the claim about pin 3 that doesnt exist on his unit. as for hating you i really dont know you well enough and with the way you have been acting dont really have any desire to. ah tom your continuous diatribes against my beliefs my politics my correct answers to questions or just my presence in the group is all that is needed to prove you cant practice the tolerance you love to preach and your hatred of me. and you insinuated i was an ass the same as calling me one. no i said that you are acting like one and you are. denial doesnt disprove fact ...you called me an ass as far as im concerned. remember tom i do have the right to be offendeed and you are very offensive. btw the ass is a excellent domesticated beast of burden that is known for loyalty determination and surprising intelligence. iow the polar opposit of the way you are acting again. grow up budd. no you grow up and practice the tolerance you liberals accuse everyone else of needing to have. grow up budd and stop trying to spin it into something else. im not spinning the statement. you need to grow up. and i would rather be compared to an ass than to be compared to you. i guess that you would rather be compared to an ass rather than a man because you are still not man enough to admit to being wrong or jhaving enough class to just shut up. did someone lie to you about you being a man again no tom i consider you to be the rectum of the group. unwiped hemorrhoidal full of excrement and happiest when youre in the toilet even when in your usual condition of diarrhea of the brain. now who is the one who resorts to pure name calling who seems to hate who now and btw so much for that admission of error now that you are once again accusing me of having diarrhea of the brain along with the rest of your childish name calling. whats the matter tom cant handle the truth about yourself once you called the first name the gloves came off. now go cry in a corner. you brag about being receptive of criticism but you never never are. if anyone was to dare tell you where you screwed up it opens them up for one of your vulagar tirades. max and i seem to be the only ones with the constitution to tolerate your sheer idiocy. the problem here budd is that i am not wrong unlike you and you are just too hatefull to admit to it or even to just shut up and like i said so much for that admission of error but then again it would take a real man to do that. no matter how you deny it it was an admission of error and it is your hatred that is making you deny the fact. well ive wasted my time on you again. i guess i keep hoping for a miracle to take place in you. ah well . . . . yes budd you did waste time the time it took for everyone to read your typical childish crap which

From : max dodge

no i didnt. at least not in your mind but out here in reality you give bad advice all the time. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. lol what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil wont show voltage all the time. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max because nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground not the ecu. what he suggested is common practice. what you suggested is foolish. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. ok if it matters who he replied to youll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. the thread history doesnt lie unlike you. you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! my repeat statements are because there simply isnt anything new in most of your drivel. as such the same reply works well and saves keyboard time. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing key steps as well. you should really stick to transmissions because you really dont know shit about electrical systems. care to prove i misquoted from the fsm if you dont post pics of the exact sections of the fsm that you think i misquoted you are lying again. meantime i have my 1975 fsm sitting right here. once you post pics of where im full of shit ill be glad to post pics of exactly what i said. meantime you go ahead and spin your lies. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author if you read the thread you would have had context on what he was saying and my answer to him. sorry to burst your bubble maxi but he was replying to both of us. doesnt matter to whom he replied. you still got the jumper wire reference all screwed up and gave bad advice based on a huge assumption on your part. no i didnt. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max well since i didnt advise him to use any sort of jumper wire this would be more assuption on your part. well if you didnt mention using any sort of jumper wire and his response was clearly referencing the suggested use of one it appears that he was talking to me. doesnt matter to whom he replied. you still got the jumper wire reference all screwed up and gave bad advice based on a huge assumption on your part. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! likewise. care to dig yourself in a little deeper. the ony thing getting deep in here is your bullshit. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing key steps as well. you should really stick to transmissions because you really dont know shit about electrical systems. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tbone

no i didnt. at least not in your mind but out here in reality you give bad advice all the time. there really is a big difference between reality and maxworld. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. lol what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil wont show voltage all the time. because it cannot but feel free to prove me wrong and show me the formula that says any voltage can exist where resistance to ground is zero. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max because nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground not the ecu. what he suggested is common practice. what you suggested is foolish. lol now look at who is lying. please indicate exactly where i ever said to ground the ecu. once again you alligator mouth is overrunning that hummingbird ass. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. ok if it matters who he replied to youll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. the thread history doesnt lie unlike you. but you said that you never told him to use a ground wire so how could it be to one of yours you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! my repeat statements are because there simply isnt anything new in most of your drivel. as such the same reply works well and saves keyboard time. you call it drivel others call it truth especially in this thread. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing key steps as well. you should really stick to transmissions because you really dont know shit about electrical systems. care to prove i misquoted from the fsm if you dont post pics of the exact sections of the fsm that you think i misquoted you are lying again. i dont have your 75 manual but you never mentioned checking the pickup or coil to ground to look for shorts so you in fact misquoted what the fsm procedure actually is. meantime i have my 1975 fsm sitting right here. once you post pics of where im full of shit ill be glad to post pics of exactly what i said. but you didnt quote it completely which indicates that you really didnt understand what it was trying to do. meantime you go ahead and spin your lies. the only lies are the ones you created in your imagination. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : max dodge

i dont see any pics as proof yet. have a nice day. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author no i didnt. at least not in your mind but out here in reality you give bad advice all the time. there really is a big difference between reality and maxworld. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. lol what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil wont show voltage all the time. because it cannot but feel free to prove me wrong and show me the formula that says any voltage can exist where resistance to ground is zero. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max because nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground not the ecu. what he suggested is common practice. what you suggested is foolish. lol now look at who is lying. please indicate exactly where i ever said to ground the ecu. once again you alligator mouth is overrunning that hummingbird ass. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. ok if it matters who he replied to youll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. the thread history doesnt lie unlike you. but you said that you never told him to use a ground wire so how could it be to one of yours you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! my repeat statements are because there simply isnt anything new in most of your drivel. as such the same reply works well and saves keyboard time. you call it drivel others call it truth especially in this thread. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing key steps as well. you should really stick to transmissions because you really dont know shit about electrical systems. care to prove i misquoted from the fsm if you dont post pics of the exact sections of the fsm that you think i misquoted you are lying again. i dont have your 75 manual but you never mentioned checking the pickup or coil to ground to look for shorts so you in fact misquoted what the fsm procedure actually is. meantime i have my 1975 fsm sitting right here. once you post pics of where im full of shit ill be glad to post pics of exactly what i said. but you didnt quote it completely which indicates that you really didnt understand what it was trying to do. meantime you go ahead and spin your lies. the only lies are the ones you created in your imagination. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : max dodge

i dont see any pics as proof yet. have a nice day. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author no i didnt. at least not in your mind but out here in reality you give bad advice all the time. there really is a big difference between reality and maxworld. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. lol what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil wont show voltage all the time. because it cannot but feel free to prove me wrong and show me the formula that says any voltage can exist where resistance to ground is zero. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max because nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground not the ecu. what he suggested is common practice. what you suggested is foolish. lol now look at who is lying. please indicate exactly where i ever said to ground the ecu. once again you alligator mouth is overrunning that hummingbird ass. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. ok if it matters who he replied to youll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. the thread history doesnt lie unlike you. but you said that you never told him to use a ground wire so how could it be to one of yours you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! my repeat statements are because there simply isnt anything new in most of your drivel. as such the same reply works well and saves keyboard time. you call it drivel others call it truth especially in this thread. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing key steps as well. you should really stick to transmissions because you really dont know shit about electrical systems. care to prove i misquoted from the fsm if you dont post pics of the exact sections of the fsm that you think i misquoted you are lying again. i dont have your 75 manual but you never mentioned checking the pickup or coil to ground to look for shorts so you in fact misquoted what the fsm procedure actually is. meantime i have my 1975 fsm sitting right here. once you post pics of where im full of shit ill be glad to post pics of exactly what i said. but you didnt quote it completely which indicates that you really didnt understand what it was trying to do. meantime you go ahead and spin your lies. the only lies are the ones you created in your imagination. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : tbone

i gave you proof in a few steps you neglected to provide probably because you didnt understand what the fsm was telling you to do. i also have yet to see anything to back up your false accusations and i know that i never will. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i dont see any pics as proof yet. have a nice day. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author no i didnt. at least not in your mind but out here in reality you give bad advice all the time. there really is a big difference between reality and maxworld. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. lol what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil wont show voltage all the time. because it cannot but feel free to prove me wrong and show me the formula that says any voltage can exist where resistance to ground is zero. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max because nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground not the ecu. what he suggested is common practice. what you suggested is foolish. lol now look at who is lying. please indicate exactly where i ever said to ground the ecu. once again you alligator mouth is overrunning that hummingbird ass. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. ok if it matters who he replied to youll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. the thread history doesnt lie unlike you. but you said that you never told him to use a ground wire so how could it be to one of yours you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! my repeat statements are because there simply isnt anything new in most of your drivel. as such the same reply works well and saves keyboard time. you call it drivel others call it truth especially in this thread. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing key steps as well. you should really stick to transmissions because you really dont know shit about electrical systems. care to prove i misquoted from the fsm if you dont post pics of the exact sections of the fsm that you think i misquoted you are lying again. i dont have your 75 manual but you never mentioned checking the pickup or coil to ground to look for shorts so you in fact misquoted what the fsm procedure actually is. meantime i have my 1975 fsm sitting right here. once you post pics of where im full of shit ill be glad to post pics of exactly what i said. but you didnt quote it completely which indicates that you really didnt understand what it was trying to do. meantime you go ahead and spin your lies. the only lies are the ones you created in your imagination. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : max dodge

you claimed that i did not provide the correct procedure. please provide pictures of the fsm where it contradicts what i said. no pics no proof. more lies. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author i gave you proof in a few steps you neglected to provide probably because you didnt understand what the fsm was telling you to do. i also have yet to see anything to back up your false accusations and i know that i never will. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i dont see any pics as proof yet. have a nice day. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author no i didnt. at least not in your mind but out here in reality you give bad advice all the time. there really is a big difference between reality and maxworld. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. lol what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil wont show voltage all the time. because it cannot but feel free to prove me wrong and show me the formula that says any voltage can exist where resistance to ground is zero. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max because nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground not the ecu. what he suggested is common practice. what you suggested is foolish. lol now look at who is lying. please indicate exactly where i ever said to ground the ecu. once again you alligator mouth is overrunning that hummingbird ass. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. ok if it matters who he replied to youll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. the thread history doesnt lie unlike you. but you said that you never told him to use a ground wire so how could it be to one of yours you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! my repeat statements are because there simply isnt anything new in most of your drivel. as such the same reply works well and saves keyboard time. you call it drivel others call it truth especially in this thread. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing key steps as well. you should really stick to transmissions because you really dont know shit about electrical systems. care to prove i misquoted from the fsm if you dont post pics of the exact sections of the fsm that you think i misquoted you are lying again. i dont have your 75 manual but you never mentioned checking the pickup or coil to ground to look for shorts so you in fact misquoted what the fsm procedure actually is. meantime i have my 1975 fsm sitting right here. once you post pics of where im full of shit ill be glad to post pics of exactly what i said. but you didnt quote it completely which indicates that you really didnt understand what it was trying to do. meantime you go ahead and spin your lies. the only lies are the ones you created in your imagination. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

so iow you dont wish to defend your statements and everything you say should be accepted without question i gave you a chance to prove yourself and youve rejected it. i would have posted the pics unmodified why would i modify them when you could see them and tell everyone they were modified consider it forced honesty on my part if you choose and you could have proved your point without question. i think you just screwed up any credibility you had gained in the discussion tom but thats just my opinion. max do you need to have anything posted or does your provider permit it -- budd cochran romans 323 romans 623 john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 and you make lots of claims but yet are unable to back a single one of them up. i know better than to follow your crap anymore. when you have the ability to back up what you say you do so as in the mercedes thread but here all you can do is spin. hell even the op bailed out when you started this childish crap. god forbid someone else has a different idea that yours especially when you thing the other person may be right. well since the op bailed out of this now childish thread so will i so as i said to budd feel free to have the last word. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving post them to a web host. so far you have lots of excuses and accusations and little proof. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author lol like you back up anything you say. problem is that i cant post binaries to a non-binary group. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving you claimed that i did not provide the correct procedure. please provide pictures of the fsm where it contradicts what i said. no pics no proof. more lies. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author i gave you proof in a few steps you neglected to provide probably because you didnt understand what the fsm was telling you to do. i also have yet to see anything to back up your false accusations and i know that i never will. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i dont see any pics as proof yet. have a nice day. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author no i didnt. at least not in your mind but out here in reality you give bad advice all the time. there really is a big difference between reality and maxworld. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. lol what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil wont show voltage all the time. because it cannot but feel free to prove me wrong and show me the formula that says any voltage can exist where resistance to ground is zero. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max because nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground not the ecu. what he suggested is common practice. what you suggested is foolish. lol now look at who is lying. please indicate exactly where i ever said to ground the ecu. once again you alligator mouth is overrunning that hummingbird ass. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. ok if it matters who he replied to youll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. the thread history doesnt lie unlike you. but you said that you never told him to use a ground wire so how could it be to one of yours you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! my repeat statements are because there simply isnt anything new in most of your drivel. as such the same reply works well and saves keyboard time. you call it drivel others call it truth especially in this thread. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing key steps as well. you should really stick to transmissions because you really dont know shit about electrical systems. care to prove i misquoted from the fsm if you dont post pics of the exact sections of the fsm that you think i misquoted you are lying again. i dont have your 75 manual but you never mentioned checking the pickup or coil to ground to look for shorts so you in fact misquoted what the fsm proced

From : max dodge

thanks for the offer budd. im a bit rushed right now but later im sure i can post pics of the exact instructions on a pic host site if not here. i assure anyone still reading its just a matter of cracking open section 8 in the fsm and finding the electronic ignition pages. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author so iow you dont wish to defend your statements and everything you say should be accepted without question i gave you a chance to prove yourself and youve rejected it. i would have posted the pics unmodified why would i modify them when you could see them and tell everyone they were modified consider it forced honesty on my part if you choose and you could have proved your point without question. i think you just screwed up any credibility you had gained in the discussion tom but thats just my opinion. max do you need to have anything posted or does your provider permit it -- budd cochran romans 323 romans 623 john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 and you make lots of claims but yet are unable to back a single one of them up. i know better than to follow your crap anymore. when you have the ability to back up what you say you do so as in the mercedes thread but here all you can do is spin. hell even the op bailed out when you started this childish crap. god forbid someone else has a different idea that yours especially when you thing the other person may be right. well since the op bailed out of this now childish thread so will i so as i said to budd feel free to have the last word. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving post them to a web host. so far you have lots of excuses and accusations and little proof. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author lol like you back up anything you say. problem is that i cant post binaries to a non-binary group. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving you claimed that i did not provide the correct procedure. please provide pictures of the fsm where it contradicts what i said. no pics no proof. more lies. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author i gave you proof in a few steps you neglected to provide probably because you didnt understand what the fsm was telling you to do. i also have yet to see anything to back up your false accusations and i know that i never will. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i dont see any pics as proof yet. have a nice day. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author no i didnt. at least not in your mind but out here in reality you give bad advice all the time. there really is a big difference between reality and maxworld. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. lol what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil wont show voltage all the time. because it cannot but feel free to prove me wrong and show me the formula that says any voltage can exist where resistance to ground is zero. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max because nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground not the ecu. what he suggested is common practice. what you suggested is foolish. lol now look at who is lying. please indicate exactly where i ever said to ground the ecu. once again you alligator mouth is overrunning that hummingbird ass. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. ok if it matters who he replied to youll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. the thread history doesnt lie unlike you. but you said that you never told him to use a ground wire so how could it be to one of yours you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! my repeat statements are because there simply isnt anything new in most of your drivel. as such the same reply works well and saves keyboard time. you call it drivel others call it truth especially in this thread. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

youre welcome as tom would be if he chooses to take the offer. traditionally binaries if not done to excess arent a problem here in this group so i figured id offer the chance for both of you. -- budd cochran romans 323 romans 623 john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 thanks for the offer budd. im a bit rushed right now but later im sure i can post pics of the exact instructions on a pic host site if not here. i assure anyone still reading its just a matter of cracking open section 8 in the fsm and finding the electronic ignition pages. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author so iow you dont wish to defend your statements and everything you say should be accepted without question i gave you a chance to prove yourself and youve rejected it. i would have posted the pics unmodified why would i modify them when you could see them and tell everyone they were modified consider it forced honesty on my part if you choose and you could have proved your point without question. i think you just screwed up any credibility you had gained in the discussion tom but thats just my opinion. max do you need to have anything posted or does your provider permit it -- budd cochran romans 323 romans 623 john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 and you make lots of claims but yet are unable to back a single one of them up. i know better than to follow your crap anymore. when you have the ability to back up what you say you do so as in the mercedes thread but here all you can do is spin. hell even the op bailed out when you started this childish crap. god forbid someone else has a different idea that yours especially when you thing the other person may be right. well since the op bailed out of this now childish thread so will i so as i said to budd feel free to have the last word. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving post them to a web host. so far you have lots of excuses and accusations and little proof. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author lol like you back up anything you say. problem is that i cant post binaries to a non-binary group. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving you claimed that i did not provide the correct procedure. please provide pictures of the fsm where it contradicts what i said. no pics no proof. more lies. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author i gave you proof in a few steps you neglected to provide probably because you didnt understand what the fsm was telling you to do. i also have yet to see anything to back up your false accusations and i know that i never will. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i dont see any pics as proof yet. have a nice day. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author no i didnt. at least not in your mind but out here in reality you give bad advice all the time. there really is a big difference between reality and maxworld. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. lol what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil wont show voltage all the time. because it cannot but feel free to prove me wrong and show me the formula that says any voltage can exist where resistance to ground is zero. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max because nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground not the ecu. what he suggested is common practice. what you suggested is foolish. lol now look at who is lying. please indicate exactly where i ever said to ground the ecu. once again you alligator mouth is overrunning that hummingbird ass. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. ok if it matters who he replied to youll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. the thread history doesnt lie unlike you. but you said that you never told him to use a ground wire so how could it be to one of yours you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! my repeat statements are because there simply isnt anything new in most of yo

From : max dodge

i got the truck started today. the actual fix was replacing a bad ecu. glad things worked out for you. funny how those troubleshooting procedures that i posted led you right to the problem that your test results indicated. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author i got the truck started today. the actual fix was replacing a bad ecu. i did not get a start immediately after replacing the bad one...due to my haste. i neglected to remove the little metal retaing nut that was stuck inside the ecu harness off the bad one so my harness was not seating all the way on the new ecu. so...thats the end to this soap opera i hope. i enjoyed the little pissing match i inadvertantly started! thanks to all who posted suggestions. .

From : max dodge

if you had as much of a clue about the proper troubleshooting steps as you say youd know thats exactly what he did. have a nice day. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author yea sure it was. sounds to me like he swapped the part and got lucky but good for him either way. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i got the truck started today. the actual fix was replacing a bad ecu. glad things worked out for you. funny how those troubleshooting procedures that i posted led you right to the problem that your test results indicated. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author i got the truck started today. the actual fix was replacing a bad ecu. i did not get a start immediately after replacing the bad one...due to my haste. i neglected to remove the little metal retaing nut that was stuck inside the ecu harness off the bad one so my harness was not seating all the way on the new ecu. so...thats the end to this soap opera i hope. i enjoyed the little pissing match i inadvertantly started! thanks to all who posted suggestions. .

From : theo

www.ramchargercentral.com will have all the information that you need on that spark problem. just register and put a post in vehicle help. include year model milage mods stuff like that theo/stuper you said you couldnt post a pic i can. ya wanna back up your claim or not if max needs the service he has the same option if needed but i dont think he does. -- budd cochran romans 323 romans 623 john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 thanks for the offer budd but until maxi is willing to back up the crap he has been spewing out in this thread it really isnt worth the time. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving send them to me tom. i can. -- budd cochran romans 323 romans 623 john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 lol like you back up anything you say. problem is that i cant post binaries to a non-binary group. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving you claimed that i did not provide the correct procedure. please provide pictures of the fsm where it contradicts what i said. no pics no proof. more lies. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author i gave you proof in a few steps you neglected to provide probably because you didnt understand what the fsm was telling you to do. i also have yet to see anything to back up your false accusations and i know that i never will. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i dont see any pics as proof yet. have a nice day. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author no i didnt. at least not in your mind but out here in reality you give bad advice all the time. there really is a big difference between reality and maxworld. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. lol what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil wont show voltage all the time. because it cannot but feel free to prove me wrong and show me the formula that says any voltage can exist where resistance to ground is zero. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max because nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground not the ecu. what he suggested is common practice. what you suggested is foolish. lol now look at who is lying. please indicate exactly where i ever said to ground the ecu. once again you alligator mouth is overrunning that hummingbird ass. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. ok if it matters who he replied to youll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. the thread history doesnt lie unlike you. but you said that you never told him to use a ground wire so how could it be to one of yours you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! my repeat statements are because there simply isnt anything new in most of your drivel. as such the same reply works well and saves keyboard time. you call it drivel others call it truth especially in this thread. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing key steps as well. you should really stick to transmissions because you really dont know shit about electrical systems. care to prove i misquoted from the fsm if you dont post pics of the exact sections of the fsm that you think i misquoted you are lying again. i dont have your 75 manual but you never mentioned checking the pickup or coil to ground to look for shorts so you in fact misquoted what the fsm procedure actually is. meantime i have my 1975 fsm sitting right here. once you post pics of where im full of shit ill be glad to post pics of exactly what i said. but you didnt quote it completely which indicates that you really didnt understand what it was trying to do. meantime you go ahead and spin your lies. the only lies are the ones you created in your imagination. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving *** free account sponsored by secureix.com *** *** encrypt your internet usage with a free vpn account from http//www.secureix.com *** .

From : max dodge

i got the truck started today. the actual fix was replacing a bad ecu. glad things worked out for you. funny how those troubleshooting procedures that i posted led you right to the problem that your test results indicated. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author i got the truck started today. the actual fix was replacing a bad ecu. i did not get a start immediately after replacing the bad one...due to my haste. i neglected to remove the little metal retaing nut that was stuck inside the ecu harness off the bad one so my harness was not seating all the way on the new ecu. so...thats the end to this soap opera i hope. i enjoyed the little pissing match i inadvertantly started! thanks to all who posted suggestions. .

From : tom lawrence

a knowlege of basic series circuits backs up what i said and since tom l didnt jump in to correct me as usual it must be correct. please dont misinterpret my lack of interest in your latest pissing match with endorsement of your position. .

From : tbone

-- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving so iow you dont wish to defend your statements and everything you say should be accepted without question a knowlege of basic series circuits backs up what i said and since tom l didnt jump in to correct me as usual it must be correct. i think you just screwed up any credibility you had gained in the discussion tom but thats just my opinion. well budd with your last post in this thread revealing your complete lack of basic understanding you opinion of my credibility here really doesnt mean all that much. .

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

theo tis not i with the problem of no spark its the original poster. -- budd cochran romans 323 romans 623 john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 www.ramchargercentral.com will have all the information that you need on that spark problem. just register and put a post in vehicle help. include year model milage mods stuff like that theo/stuper you said you couldnt post a pic i can. ya wanna back up your claim or not if max needs the service he has the same option if needed but i dont think he does. -- budd cochran romans 323 romans 623 john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 thanks for the offer budd but until maxi is willing to back up the crap he has been spewing out in this thread it really isnt worth the time. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving send them to me tom. i can. -- budd cochran romans 323 romans 623 john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 lol like you back up anything you say. problem is that i cant post binaries to a non-binary group. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving you claimed that i did not provide the correct procedure. please provide pictures of the fsm where it contradicts what i said. no pics no proof. more lies. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author i gave you proof in a few steps you neglected to provide probably because you didnt understand what the fsm was telling you to do. i also have yet to see anything to back up your false accusations and i know that i never will. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i dont see any pics as proof yet. have a nice day. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author no i didnt. at least not in your mind but out here in reality you give bad advice all the time. there really is a big difference between reality and maxworld. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. lol what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil wont show voltage all the time. because it cannot but feel free to prove me wrong and show me the formula that says any voltage can exist where resistance to ground is zero. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max because nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground not the ecu. what he suggested is common practice. what you suggested is foolish. lol now look at who is lying. please indicate exactly where i ever said to ground the ecu. once again you alligator mouth is overrunning that hummingbird ass. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. ok if it matters who he replied to youll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. the thread history doesnt lie unlike you. but you said that you never told him to use a ground wire so how could it be to one of yours you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! my repeat statements are because there simply isnt anything new in most of your drivel. as such the same reply works well and saves keyboard time. you call it drivel others call it truth especially in this thread. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing key steps as well. you should really stick to transmissions because you really dont know shit about electrical systems. care to prove i misquoted from the fsm if you dont post pics of the exact sections of the fsm that you think i misquoted you are lying again. i dont have your 75 manual but you never mentioned checking the pickup or coil to ground to look for shorts so you in fact misquoted what the fsm procedure actually is. meantime i have my 1975 fsm sitting right here. once you post pics of where im full of shit ill be glad to post pics of exactly what i said. but you didnt quote it completely which indicates that you really didnt understand what it was trying to do. meantime you go ahead and spin your lies. the only lies are the ones you created in your imagination. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving *** free account sponsored by secureix.com *** *** encrypt your internet usage with a free vpn account from http//www.securei

From : tbone

on tue 14 feb 2006 193929 -0700 budd cochran mr-d150@preciscom spam.net wrote i think i just figured it out miles. . . . on star trek a science fiction fantasy program no one works to make a profit / income they work because they want to. all your sustenance lodging and clothing comes from somewhere probably a governmental agency and cost nothing or from a replicator provided by the afore mentioned entity. and tom thinks thats the way it should be . . . . . thats a pretty insane thing to say. ridicule doesnt fit yoou well you use stupid analogies. no it fits t-bones attitudes that the developers / managers of business should not be rewarded according to their efforts. more complete horseshit from you. i have no problem for people being rewarded for their efforts but thre is a point where it goes beyond a reward and into pure greed. i also have a problem when these people screw up and dont take the blame for it and expect others to take the loss for it. rotflmbo!!!!!!!! you think every ceo is like enrons ceo bhwa-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!!!!!!! probably so. many unions have no more mission than to take over the management of a mid-sized business so they can control operations and they do it under the guise of supporting employee needs. lol another claim that you have no possible way of backing up. gee look at what the guy that turns down an offer to back up a claim says about another persons opinion. reality check tom opinions do not have to be backed up with proof. -- budd cochran romans 323 romans 623 john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 *** free account sponsored by secureix.com *** *** encrypt your internet usage with a free vpn account from http//www.secureix.com *** . 222 312755 f9sif.29065$%84.27728@tornado.southeast.rr.com why not you seem to jump in just about every other time just like now. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving a knowlege of basic series circuits backs up what i said and since tom l didnt jump in to correct me as usual it must be correct. please dont misinterpret my lack of interest in your latest pissing match with endorsement of your position. .

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

-- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving so iow you dont wish to defend your statements and everything you say should be accepted without question a knowlege of basic series circuits backs up what i said and since tom l didnt jump in to correct me as usual it must be correct. no . . .it could mean hes tired of correcting you then being on the receiving end of another of your whiney baby rants. i think you just screwed up any credibility you had gained in the discussion tom but thats just my opinion. well budd with your last post in this thread revealing your complete lack of basic understanding you opinion of my credibility here really doesnt mean all that much. rotflmbo!!!!!!!! tom are you that desperate to discredit me that you have to fling a simple admitted error back in the discussion an admitted error does not ruin ones credibility it increases it and it jerks the ladder out from under an attackers credibility. -- budd cochran romans 323 romans 623 john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 *** free account sponsored by secureix.com *** *** encrypt your internet usage with a free vpn account from http//www.secureix.com *** .

From : tom lawrence

why not you seem to jump in just about every other time just like now. you mentioned me by name tom.... i dont consider that jumping in. .

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

it isnt jumping in tom. -- budd cochran romans 323 romans 623 john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 why not you seem to jump in just about every other time just like now. you mentioned me by name tom.... i dont consider that jumping in. *** free account sponsored by secureix.com *** *** encrypt your internet usage with a free vpn account from http//www.secureix.com *** .

From : cordobaman

i got the truck started today. the actual fix was replacing a bad ecu. i did not get a start immediately after replacing the bad one...due to my haste. i neglected to remove the little metal retaing nut that was stuck inside the ecu harness off the bad one so my harness was not seating all the way on the new ecu. so...thats the end to this soap opera i hope. i enjoyed the little pissing match i inadvertantly started! thanks to all who posted suggestions. .

From : tbone

yea sure it was. sounds to me like he swapped the part and got lucky but good for him either way. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i got the truck started today. the actual fix was replacing a bad ecu. glad things worked out for you. funny how those troubleshooting procedures that i posted led you right to the problem that your test results indicated. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author i got the truck started today. the actual fix was replacing a bad ecu. i did not get a start immediately after replacing the bad one...due to my haste. i neglected to remove the little metal retaing nut that was stuck inside the ecu harness off the bad one so my harness was not seating all the way on the new ecu. so...thats the end to this soap opera i hope. i enjoyed the little pissing match i inadvertantly started! thanks to all who posted suggestions. .

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

youre welcome. im glad you got it running. as for the other it seems any more that if i post anything someone starts a pissing match over it. -- budd cochran romans 323 romans 623 john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 i got the truck started today. the actual fix was replacing a bad ecu. i did not get a start immediately after replacing the bad one...due to my haste. i neglected to remove the little metal retaing nut that was stuck inside the ecu harness off the bad one so my harness was not seating all the way on the new ecu. so...thats the end to this soap opera i hope. i enjoyed the little pissing match i inadvertantly started! thanks to all who posted suggestions. *** free account sponsored by secureix.com *** *** encrypt your internet usage with a free vpn account from http//www.secureix.com *** .

From : budd cochran mrd150 preciscom spam net

send them to me tom. i can. -- budd cochran romans 323 romans 623 john 316-17 ephesians 28-9 lol like you back up anything you say. problem is that i cant post binaries to a non-binary group. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving you claimed that i did not provide the correct procedure. please provide pictures of the fsm where it contradicts what i said. no pics no proof. more lies. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author i gave you proof in a few steps you neglected to provide probably because you didnt understand what the fsm was telling you to do. i also have yet to see anything to back up your false accusations and i know that i never will. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving i dont see any pics as proof yet. have a nice day. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author no i didnt. at least not in your mind but out here in reality you give bad advice all the time. there really is a big difference between reality and maxworld. you just dont understand electrical systems at all. lol what a laugh that is coming from the guy that thinks the negative side of the coil wont show voltage all the time. because it cannot but feel free to prove me wrong and show me the formula that says any voltage can exist where resistance to ground is zero. btw i didnt come up with the jumper wire that was another poster. i just included it because it was a good idea to confirm the function of the coil. funny how you didnt say anything to the person who initially came up with that idea. why is that max because nirodac said to ground the coil to a known good ground not the ecu. what he suggested is common practice. what you suggested is foolish. lol now look at who is lying. please indicate exactly where i ever said to ground the ecu. once again you alligator mouth is overrunning that hummingbird ass. it most certainly does and you know it and i got nothing screwed up. ok if it matters who he replied to youll note the post where he replied about the jumper wire is directly in response to one of my replies. the thread history doesnt lie unlike you. but you said that you never told him to use a ground wire so how could it be to one of yours you just dont like to be made the fool especially when you are doing it to yourself and your typical repeat statements show that you really have nothing valid to say you are just mad lol! my repeat statements are because there simply isnt anything new in most of your drivel. as such the same reply works well and saves keyboard time. you call it drivel others call it truth especially in this thread. my bullshit lol. i just gave him some valid advice to get him away from the crap you were misquoting from the fsm and missing key steps as well. you should really stick to transmissions because you really dont know shit about electrical systems. care to prove i misquoted from the fsm if you dont post pics of the exact sections of the fsm that you think i misquoted you are lying again. i dont have your 75 manual but you never mentioned checking the pickup or coil to ground to look for shorts so you in fact misquoted what the fsm procedure actually is. meantime i have my 1975 fsm sitting right here. once you post pics of where im full of shit ill be glad to post pics of exactly what i said. but you didnt quote it completely which indicates that you really didnt understand what it was trying to do. meantime you go ahead and spin your lies. the only lies are the ones you created in your imagination. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : nirodac

of course you could test the coil ballast resister ignition switch and all the wiring in between by simply momentarily grounding the negative side of the coil ignition switch in run position to a know good ground while holding the high tension lead coil output near the block grounded you should get a spark when you remove the temporary ground lead on the negative side of the coil. the spark should repeat each time you ground the coil. what in the hell are you talking about max the coil not being grounded is the only reason that he is getting 12v on both sides. you really need to pick up a little electrical theory here dude. and you need to look at hte wiring diagram. coil on this set up is fed from the ignition switch so its hot on both sides unless it has a break in the windings. it is switched at ground you knew that! and as such will be hot on both sides no matter what the switch position is. i am aware of the wiring max and if you understood it you would realise that it is impossible for 12v to be on both sides of the coil at all times. when the switch is on or conducting the voltage on the negative side will be just about zero as the coil will drop the voltage and for that matter even the positive side will not be at 12v due to a voltage drop from the ballast resistor. if the internals of the coil are ok or completely shorted he will still get 12v on both sides if the negative terminal is not grounded so getting 12v on both sides of the coil only indicates that the coil is not open not that it is good. it also indicates that the coil primary is not grounded at that point which may also be normal when the engine is not running. your resistance measurement is the only way to tell if the primary side is good. correct but the voltage reading on both sides indicates that the circuit not the coil is functioning as it should. how do you know if the circuit is not conducting and never does then something is wrong and that 12v on both sides means little only that it is not completely dead. i think that i already said that but it is the ground that is switched not the hot side. precisely why the coil will have 12v on both positive and negative terminals. you need to do a little review of a simple circuit to see how wrong you are here. if one side is grounded then there will be no measurable voltage on that side so during the non-conducting phase you would be correct but during the conducting phase coil build up the ground side has to be zero. i doubt that the ground on the ecu has anything to do with it as he has already replaced it and simply removing and retightening the ecu should have cleaned up that ground enough to work. it could be a pickup coil failure or a wiring problem but i doubt much else. personal experience tells me you could be wrong on the rust issue. test results posted by the op tell me you are wrong on the pickup coil. i could be but i doubt it. as for the pickup coil since he replaced everything but the pickup and reluctor it looks like the most likely cause. if it is a ground issue just put a continuity tester on one of the bolts holding the ecu and the other side on the negative of the battery. if he has continuity then he has a ground simple as that. that leaves coil and wiring issues as i stated previously. interesting idea... test the coil while cranking see if the ign switch feeds 12v during cranking as well as run. you will never get 12v when cranking as the starter motor draws too much current. that is why the ballast resistor is bypassed during cranking to boost the voltage up as much as possible. what he really should do is put a dwell meter across the coil and crank it. if he gets a valid reading then the primary side of the circuit is ok. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .

From : max dodge

i am aware of the wiring max and if you understood it you would realise that it is impossible for 12v to be on both sides of the coil at all times. when the switch is on or conducting the voltage on the negative side will be just about zero as the coil will drop the voltage and for that matter even the positive side will not be at 12v due to a voltage drop from the ballast resistor. the odds of seeing that split second where the switch is on are much more in your favor if you have an oscilloscope. since a multimeter is much more commonly used you are very unlikely to see the voltage at anything less than 12v nominal on either side when testing it. this is particularly true with a digital meter. correct but the voltage reading on both sides indicates that the circuit not the coil is functioning as it should. how do you know because i understand how it works thats how i know. if the circuit is not conducting and never does then something is wrong and that 12v on both sides means little only that it is not completely dead. the presence of 12v on the negative side measured at the connector to the ecu means the circuit is working fine. funny how those factory test procedures actually test what they are designed to test. precisely why the coil will have 12v on both positive and negative terminals. you need to do a little review of a simple circuit to see how wrong you are here. crack open the fsm and get back to me on this. if one side is grounded then there will be no measurable voltage on that side so during the non-conducting phase you would be correct but during the conducting phase coil build up the ground side has to be zero. ok do i need to review with you that the circuit is never grounded until the engine is turning and that the circuit is only grounded for a split second this since a build up and collapse of the coil field is designed to happen as quickly as possible. therefore if you want to see the circuit in a grounded condition you need an oscilloscope. at all other times the coil will show 12v nominal on both sides. thats twice that ive explained this to you. one more time and were done here and you fail. personal experience tells me you could be wrong on the rust issue. test results posted by the op tell me you are wrong on the pickup coil. i could be but i doubt it. yeah because you are never wrong. as for the pickup coil since he replaced everything but the pickup and reluctor it looks like the most likely cause. except if you had read his test results you would know that the pickup coil had the required resistance. if it is a ground issue just put a continuity tester on one of the bolts holding the ecu and the other side on the negative of the battery. if he has continuity then he has a ground simple as that. wrong. so wrong its hard to believe you actually posted that. the bolt is not permanently affixed to the ecu or the car body. thus rust can form betwen the bolt and the ecu or between the bolt and the car body. your test only shows how well the bolt is grounded. thus the proper test which i posted from the fsm is to go from pin five to the battery negative and look for continuity. that leaves coil and wiring issues as i stated previously. interesting idea... test the coil while cranking see if the ign switch feeds 12v during cranking as well as run. you will never get 12v when cranking as the starter motor draws too much current. that is why the ballast resistor is bypassed during cranking to boost the voltage up as much as possible. what he really should do is put a dwell meter across the coil and crank it. if he gets a valid reading then the primary side of the circuit is ok. ok let me rephrase for you textbook types that have never troubleshot this system in reality. what i suggested was a test to see if the ignition switch was cutting power to the coil as in no power when in the start position. what i suggested is not a test for the coil circuit. the test for the coil circuit was to look for battery voltage at the 12 and 3 cavities in the connector to the ecu. if you dispute this last sentence please take it up with the factory engineers. were done here. -- max there are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty soap ballot jury and ammo. please use in that order. -ed howdershelt author what in the hell are you talking about max the coil not being grounded is the only reason that he is getting 12v on both sides. you really need to pick up a little electrical theory here dude. and you need to look at hte wiring diagram. coil on this set up is fed from the ignition switch so its hot on both sides unless it has a break in the windings. it is switched at ground you knew that! and as such will be hot on both sides no matter what the switch position is. i am aware of the wiring max and if you understood it you would realise that