360 Compatibility?

From : Annonymous

Q: im looking for a less-used replacement for my 85 w350 360 loadflight engine. anyone know if the car version and what years will bolt in my transmission is a little iffy too - are there any that would bolt all the way back to my np-208 transfer case i only use the truck for the five-year snowstorm hauling gravel and going to the dump so remanufactured or rebuilding isnt very attractive... if it will fit i can probably buy a little old lady passensger car of that vintage for $200. .

Replies:

From : budd cochran

actually gary it is an old old trick and my old 68 fury had the accumulator spring broken for about 5 years that i know of with no probs. the trick is even suggested by a mopar magazines tech editor for all 727/904 based transmissions. personally i wouldnt recommend removing one either so . . . . budd loose the accumulator spring to stiffen the shifts jesus mary and joseph............................ .

From : james grosso

stephen harding harding@cs.umass.edu wrote in joe wrote while a rwd car can be made better in the snow with the help of studded tires and more weight in the rear a fwd is still better and doesnt require modification or pre-planning. what modification or pre-planning you just throw a sandbag or a couple cement blocks in back during the thanksgiving weekend then take them out come easter. if you think that fwd is really better in snow then youre a victim of sales/marketing bullshit over all these years. no just the physics of mass x g. by throwing those cinder blocks into the trunk youre doing exactly what the fwd has already done putting weight over the drive wheels. youre in effect doing a vw by putting weight over the rear drive wheels. didnt say this was a complicated thing to do just something you *need* to do to match what fwd has already done for you. indeed. unfortunately the trade-off is that the drive wheels are also the steering wheels. not a good thing when the drive wheels slip. i have owned nothing but rwd cars all of my life but when my furnace failed at the end of a blizzard and i needed to get parts for it my wifes little fwd honda civic got me there where my rwd trans-am couldnt even get out of my drive way and i knew better than to even try. well duh. a ta has absolutely no weight in the rear and the tires are way too wide for snow. the hondas skinny-ass tires cut right through the snow and it obviously had a better weight distribution on the drive wheels. here it is real simple when a fwd cars front wheels lose traction youve lost all control. with a rwd car youve only lost half control. but the traction is lost in rwd before it would be lost in fwd. weight over drive wheels thats as simple as it can get. even simpler is the fact that when the drive wheels slip in a fwd car the steering wheels also slip. on slippery surfaces i.e. snow or ice the drive wheels will have a tendency to slip a lot. guess what happens to the steering in that fwd car hmm... you will lose control of any car at some speed. usually if youre paying attention the car will tell you when it is approaching that threshold of control loss. some people pay attention some dont. now this is a far more pertinent reason as to why problems on the road occur. the fact that steering control can be lost when front wheel traction goes away is true for 4x4s as well. doesnt mean rwd is better than 4wd getting through snow or any sort of slick/slippery roadway. actually a lot of times that is true. when i used to tool around the hills of northern nj in my 4x4 bronco ii many times id get better results leaving it in 2wd. for years weve all gotten the hard sell on how great fwd is in bad weather. bullshit. i dont think it is. ive driven both and i think fwd is better on slick roadways. of course the quality of your tires and your driving skill can make fwd/rwd differences insignificant but for the masses fwd will get them farther up a snowy hill than rwd. smh from experience i disagree that fwd is better. ive driven both for years and i prefer rwd. joe black 03 dakota 5.9 r/t cc calypso green 93 mustang 5.0 lx hatch with a few goodies .

From : gary glaenzer

loose the accumulator spring to stiffen the shifts jesus mary and joseph............................ .

From : robert lowerbryan swadener

any waywere a mopar familyas most are in this group.im a jeep tech20+yearsback to the amc-renult days.my work ride is a 95 neon185000 miles on odo.wife has her 94 grand voygeroldest has 98 neonmiddle son has a 97 ram 4x4next son has 89 caravan.my pride in in garageout of this crappy weatheris our 03 ram quad4x4.all mopar! .

From : dodgem

motors are the same but that trans is specific to the 4 wheel drive trucks! dodgem change the trans fluid set the bands loose the accumulator spring to stiffen the shifts and hope for the best! jimgnospam@cavenet.com wrote im looking for a less-used replacement for my 85 w350 360 loadflight engine. anyone know if the car version and what years will bolt in my transmission is a little iffy too - are there any that would bolt all the way back to my np-208 transfer case i only use the truck for the five-year snowstorm hauling gravel and going to the dump so remanufactured or rebuilding isnt very attractive... if it will fit i can probably buy a little old lady passensger car of that vintage for $200. .

From : bryan swadener

if theres a drain plug in the torque converter dont forget to drain the old juice from it as well! the converter holds a *significant* amount of atf. bryan motors are the same but that trans is specific to the 4 wheel drive trucks! dodgem change the trans fluid set the bands loose the accumulator spring to stiffen the shifts and hope for the best! jimgnospam@cavenet.com wrote im looking for a less-used replacement for my 85 w350 360 loadflight engine. anyone know if the car version and what years will bolt in my transmission is a little iffy too - are there any that would bolt all the way back to my np-208 transfer case i only use the truck for the five-year snowstorm hauling gravel and going to the dump so remanufactured or rebuilding isnt very attractive... if it will fit i can probably buy a little old lady passensger car of that vintage for $200. .

From : big al

if you use a relay the diode drop problem goes away and you never load the two batteries together. second battery is generally there to run accessories - not start the truck. in the start position only one battery is connected to the starter unless you need to use it as a booster in which case you can energise the relal/solenoid switch to connect the second battery to the starter fords been doing it that way on the camper specials for years. i have run with a deep cycle house battery and a standard sli battery charged in parallel many times with no problem with this setup. the charging system will provide the voltage called for by the lowest charged battery of the pair so overcharging is not an issue. at least it never has been for me. 4 vehicles set up that way over the last 20 plus years. we have a whole fleet of crown vics 50+ as well as a few specialized vehicles durangos intrepids yukons they all have a dual battery set up with a relay. the main battery is the oem under the hood the second is an optima yellow top. the yellow top runs the in-car computer and radio equipment. some of these cars have had the same two batteries in them for over five years now with no trouble at all. since most the fleet is in service 24 hours a day seven days a week. they really take a beating. also if you do not like the relay idea check out http//www.hellroaring.com/ they have a solid-state solution worth looking at for two or even three batteries. .