2007 Dodge 3500 Chimes
From : hayseed
Q: asked this 2 or 3 times in the chevy 4x4 group with no replies so thought id try it here 95 small blazer 4 door v-6 auto 4x4... most available factory upgrades.. the heating/ac often decides the temperature settings for us... can go to cool to hot randomly or cold to hot if the ac is on... im thinking some kind of vacuum thing or something but have no real idea what it might be.. gotta get it fixed before summer or its going to lose its place as our daily driver.. suggestions besides getting a dodge we already have 2 does this have automatic climate control or do you have manual settings denny id bet manual. reads like a door is free to flop back and forth. wouldnt think he needs heat there. were it me id be keeping the thing set for cool all the time. roy .
Replies:
From : mac davis
hi all! have a problem with my 99 ctd quad cab. had it in storage over the winter and pulled the iod fuse. truck started up fine but now the keyless entry doesnt work. is there a tweek/trick/program reflash or something to get this back on line tia best to all! fred hey fred have you changed/checked the key fobs battery lately i get about 3 years out of my daily fob. fmb north mexico -- posted via a free usenet account from http//www.tera.com . 222 343693 4f9kj.161075$pm4.83285@pd7urf1no hi all! have a problem with my 99 ctd quad cab. had it in storage over the winter and pulled the iod fuse. truck started up fine but now the keyless entry doesnt work. is there a tweek/trick/program reflash or something to get this back on line tia best to all! fred .
From : phyloefmbfmb
did you check for voltage at the starter main lug where the heavy cable connects i will do that in a little while. when i tried it yesterday the battery was dead and i got 0 voltage. if you got 0 volts measuring at the battery posts the battery is junk. you want to check for a draw when you replace the battery so you dont ruin the next one. it shows 12 volts today but not even a click with the starter. i guess i better take the battery down to a place to have it tested for draw -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving first put a battery charger on the battery for over night. get a load tester and check the battery for resilience after the load. or use a multimeter and watch voltage as you remove the charger. if its dropping then you have a problem. if not try to start the van. if the voltage drops below 10.5v and the starter turns suspect battery problems. if the voltage drops out and the starter does not turn replace the starter. this assumes the engine is not seized. i just went out and tried it because the charger has been on the battery for the past 5 hours. i tried both of what you mention. the volage at battery was about 13.5 volts with charger and really did not drop after charger was removed. i put meter on battery and tried to start. i went from 13.xx to about 12.88 at start position then back up to 12.98 after i turned the key to off position but still no starter movement or noise. solenoid is on starter. bad starter now should i still try to jump the starter terminals thanks for the input always load test the battery and check its voltage first when diagnosing an automotive electrical problem. this proves that your power source is good allowing you to find the problem rather than wonder how much voltage you lost in the bad circuit. settles in to await the inevitable horde of electrical engineers and wannabees that will contradict proper 12v neg ground troubleshooting -- max everyone is entitled to his own opinion he is not entitled to his own facts. sen. daniel patrick moynihan of new york friday started my vehicle but had problems. sounded like battery had charge problem but started anyway. saturday tried to start vehicle. turned over but battery died. later tried charging battery in evening with smart charger. before the charger the whole eletrical system would shut down but the check engine light would come on when the door was open. its a 94 ford aerostar - other groups are dying now i have the charger going on the battery it no longer does that. sunday battery dead again charge again. tried to start again. nothing. so i asked a neighbor to help me and try a jump start. still nothing coming from starter. so what i did was test the start relay and jumped the terminals. nothing again. not even a spark even though i did put a meter at the opposite terminal and grounded it to see if i got voltage when i turned to the key to the start position. i did try jumping the terminals at the starter this morning but got nothing because the batter was dead. i still need to try to jump at the starter again. so i am wondering bad battery or bad starter .
From : peterd
on the 95 blazer the temp is controlled by by mixing heated air with fresh air using a series of flaps and doors...all vaccuum controled. somewhere youve got a make and break vaccuum leak....and good luck finding it. the vac motors controlling all this are up under the dash and most often require dash removal to find and replace.....i know cause ive paid to have it done on my 95 blazer identical to yours. there is a possibility that the vac switch controlled by the knob on the dash may be bad. remove the dash bezel and 4 screws and pull it out...youll have access to the vac lines that way and the switch they plug into. good luck. a vac problem would not change temp only the location the air was blowing from and/or whether or not the compressor is on turns it on for defrost it could determine wether or not outside air is part of the mix and how much...so that might affect temp ...but only somewhat. asked this 2 or 3 times in the chevy 4x4 group with no replies so thought id try it here 95 small blazer 4 door v-6 auto 4x4... most available factory upgrades.. the heating/ac often decides the temperature settings for us... can go to cool to hot randomly or cold to hot if the ac is on... im thinking some kind of vacuum thing or something but have no real idea what it might be.. gotta get it fixed before summer or its going to lose its place as our daily driver.. suggestions besides getting a dodge we already have 2 mac please remove splinters before emailing .
From : carolina watercraft works
on mon 7 apr 2008 010832 -0500 geekboy nospam@spamcop.net wrote first put a battery charger on the battery for over night. get a load tester and check the battery for resilience after the load. or use a multimeter and watch voltage as you remove the charger. if its dropping then you have a problem. if not try to start the van. if the voltage drops below 10.5v and the starter turns suspect battery problems. if the voltage drops out and the starter does not turn replace the starter. this assumes the engine is not seized. i just went out and tried it because the charger has been on the battery for the past 5 hours. i tried both of what you mention. the volage at battery was about 13.5 volts with charger and really did not drop after charger was removed. i put meter on battery and tried to start. i went from 13.xx to about 12.88 at start position then back up to 12.98 after i turned the key to off position but still no starter movement or noise. solenoid is on starter. bad starter now should i still try to jump the starter terminals thanks for the input always load test the battery and check its voltage first when diagnosing an automotive electrical problem. this proves that your power source is good allowing you to find the problem rather than wonder how much voltage you lost in the bad circuit. settles in to await the inevitable horde of electrical engineers and wannabees that will contradict proper 12v neg ground troubleshooting -- max everyone is entitled to his own opinion he is not entitled to his own facts. sen. daniel patrick moynihan of new york friday started my vehicle but had problems. sounded like battery had charge problem but started anyway. saturday tried to start vehicle. turned over but battery died. later tried charging battery in evening with smart charger. before the charger the whole eletrical system would shut down but the check engine light would come on when the door was open. its a 94 ford aerostar - other groups are dying now i have the charger going on the battery it no longer does that. sunday battery dead again charge again. tried to start again. nothing. so i asked a neighbor to help me and try a jump start. still nothing coming from starter. so what i did was test the start relay and jumped the terminals. nothing again. not even a spark even though i did put a meter at the opposite terminal and grounded it to see if i got voltage when i turned to the key to the start position. i did try jumping the terminals at the starter this morning but got nothing because the batter was dead. i still need to try to jump at the starter again. so i am wondering bad battery or bad starter clean and check your battery terminals. when you try to start does the dome light stay bright or does it dim out try to start with the door open... sounds like a bad connection to me. stays bright . 222 343717 muckv31mk7890mslo7h6uv9t41v16oq12v@4ax.com on sun 6 apr 2008 222346 -0400 curmudgeon curmudgeon@buzzoff.net wrote on the 95 blazer the temp is controlled by by mixing heated air with fresh air using a series of flaps and doors...all vaccuum controled. yeah thats how the mini-manual i have describes it... except you say it better in a few hundred less words.. somewhere youve got a make and break vaccuum leak....and good luck finding it. thats the depressing feeling that im getting... the vac motors controlling all this are up under the dash and most often require dash removal to find and replace.....i know cause ive paid to have it done on my 95 blazer identical to yours. there is a possibility that the vac switch controlled by the knob on the dash may be bad. remove the dash bezel and 4 screws and pull it out...youll have access to the vac lines that way and the switch they plug into. good luck. a vac problem would not change temp only the location the air was blowing from and/or whether or not the compressor is on turns it on for defrost it could determine wether or not outside air is part of the mix and how much...so that might affect temp ...but only somewhat. hmmm... ill have to think about that one.... it doesnt seem to change where the air is coming from like from vent to defrost just the temperature of the air... it can bee cool outside and the air through the vents can be changing from hot to cool by itself.. im starting to wonder if theres a way to just jam the doors or something to keep it on cool no matter what the dial/control is turned to asked this 2 or 3 times in the chevy 4x4 group with no replies so thought id try it here 95 small blazer 4 door v-6 auto 4x4... most available factory upgrades.. the heating/ac often decides the temperature settings for us... can go to cool to hot randomly or cold to hot if the ac is on... im thinking some kind of vacuum thing or something but have no real idea what it might b
From : peterdcarolina watercraft works
on sun 6 apr 2008 222346 -0400 curmudgeon curmudgeon@buzzoff.net wrote on the 95 blazer the temp is controlled by by mixing heated air with fresh air using a series of flaps and doors...all vaccuum controled. yeah thats how the mini-manual i have describes it... except you say it better in a few hundred less words.. somewhere youve got a make and break vaccuum leak....and good luck finding it. thats the depressing feeling that im getting... the vac motors controlling all this are up under the dash and most often require dash removal to find and replace.....i know cause ive paid to have it done on my 95 blazer identical to yours. there is a possibility that the vac switch controlled by the knob on the dash may be bad. remove the dash bezel and 4 screws and pull it out...youll have access to the vac lines that way and the switch they plug into. good luck. a vac problem would not change temp only the location the air was blowing from and/or whether or not the compressor is on turns it on for defrost it could determine wether or not outside air is part of the mix and how much...so that might affect temp ...but only somewhat. hmmm... ill have to think about that one.... it doesnt seem to change where the air is coming from like from vent to defrost just the temperature of the air... it can bee cool outside and the air through the vents can be changing from hot to cool by itself.. im starting to wonder if theres a way to just jam the doors or something to keep it on cool no matter what the dial/control is turned to asked this 2 or 3 times in the chevy 4x4 group with no replies so thought id try it here 95 small blazer 4 door v-6 auto 4x4... most available factory upgrades.. the heating/ac often decides the temperature settings for us... can go to cool to hot randomly or cold to hot if the ac is on... im thinking some kind of vacuum thing or something but have no real idea what it might be.. gotta get it fixed before summer or its going to lose its place as our daily driver.. suggestions besides getting a dodge we already have 2 mac please remove splinters before emailing mac please remove splinters before emailing .
From : roy
on sun 6 apr 2008 204948 -0400 denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote denny.. the diagram didnt make it can you email it to me please on sun 6 apr 2008 070742 -0400 denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote does this have automatic climate control or do you have manual settings denny no its manual and a pretty standard kind of twist thing very much like the dodge controller.. mac. im guessing the blend air door is moving back and forth when it wants to not when you want it to. see an exorcist to tame the demons... bg but if that doesnt work the blend air door is moved by an electric motor controlled by the control head. notice on the right side of the diagram down about half way. without any gm experience id check to make sure the ground was good and if it was id guess at the control module. im sure its easier to get to than the blend door motor. good luck.. denny select vehicle | new tsbs | technicians reference component search vehicle level heating and air conditioning diagrams electrical diagrams with air conditioning blower control automatic transmission automatic transmission blower control notes blower control mac please remove splinters before emailing . 222 343715 4ockv3lfp8gdpffqf55q54ee0f550okjco@4ax.com on sun 6 apr 2008 204948 -0400 denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote denny.. the diagram didnt make it can you email it to me please on sun 6 apr 2008 070742 -0400 denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote does this have automatic climate control or do you have manual settings denny no its manual and a pretty standard kind of twist thing very much like the dodge controller.. mac. im guessing the blend air door is moving back and forth when it wants to not when you want it to. see an exorcist to tame the demons... bg but if that doesnt work the blend air door is moved by an electric motor controlled by the control head. notice on the right side of the diagram down about half way. without any gm experience id check to make sure the ground was good and if it was id guess at the control module. im sure its easier to get to than the blend door motor. good luck.. denny select vehicle | new tsbs | technicians reference component search vehicle level heating and air conditioning diagrams electrical diagrams with air conditioning blower control automatic transmission automatic transmission blower control notes blower control mac please remove splinters before emailing . 222 343714 okckv3df6kgir80hh17f95ghu47l43ql6b@4ax.com on mon 07 apr 2008 012803 +0000 christopher d. thompson nospam@nospam.nospam wrote on sun 06 apr 2008 151919 -0700 mac davis wrote on sun 06 apr 2008 102715 -0400 peterd peter2@hipson.net wrote check all the vacuum hoses in the hvac unit. does it swtich to defrost from time to time too if so that may indicate low vacuum. not that i know of peter.. just from cool to warm... if you set it on vent floor both etc. it seems to stay there just changes temperature a lot.. mac please remove splinters before emailing get rid of the junk and drive the dodge........ ooooooooooooooooooooppppppppppppppppppppppppppssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss did i say that out loud gbmfg cant.. we got the blazer to limit the abuse to the ram and dakota on the roads down here... its the only 4x4 and only the highway is paved.. otoh the dak sure is fun on the runs to the states and back.. *g* mac please remove splinters before emailing .
From : mike romainhayseedhayseed
a plastic ball about 4 in diameter. under the hood. bob =ef=bf=bdaz bob... what was the hose connected to mac hose was connected between the control head and the reservoir. the real problem was started by the hose going through the firewall and chafing on the restricted opening. tee in a vacuum gauge on a hose to the reservoir. bob az . 222 343692 72b3978c-ef9e-41c0-9066-3b55d3f301a5@j1g2000prb.googlegroups.com a plastic ball about 4 in diameter. under the hood. bob =ef=bf=bdaz bob... what was the hose connected to mac hose was connected between the control head and the reservoir. the real problem was started by the hose going through the firewall and chafing on the restricted opening. tee in a vacuum gauge on a hose to the reservoir. bob az .
From : roy
northeastern log homes 4-star promise northeastern log homes camp and cabin homes are ideal for those who love the charm and sturdiness of a traditional log cabin. affordable and easy-to-construct for the do-it-yourselfer. http//www.ogogo123sina.cn/log-cabin.htm .
From : peterd
did you check for voltage at the starter main lug where the heavy cable connects -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving first put a battery charger on the battery for over night. get a load tester and check the battery for resilience after the load. or use a multimeter and watch voltage as you remove the charger. if its dropping then you have a problem. if not try to start the van. if the voltage drops below 10.5v and the starter turns suspect battery problems. if the voltage drops out and the starter does not turn replace the starter. this assumes the engine is not seized. i just went out and tried it because the charger has been on the battery for the past 5 hours. i tried both of what you mention. the volage at battery was about 13.5 volts with charger and really did not drop after charger was removed. i put meter on battery and tried to start. i went from 13.xx to about 12.88 at start position then back up to 12.98 after i turned the key to off position but still no starter movement or noise. solenoid is on starter. bad starter now should i still try to jump the starter terminals thanks for the input always load test the battery and check its voltage first when diagnosing an automotive electrical problem. this proves that your power source is good allowing you to find the problem rather than wonder how much voltage you lost in the bad circuit. settles in to await the inevitable horde of electrical engineers and wannabees that will contradict proper 12v neg ground troubleshooting -- max everyone is entitled to his own opinion he is not entitled to his own facts. sen. daniel patrick moynihan of new york friday started my vehicle but had problems. sounded like battery had charge problem but started anyway. saturday tried to start vehicle. turned over but battery died. later tried charging battery in evening with smart charger. before the charger the whole eletrical system would shut down but the check engine light would come on when the door was open. its a 94 ford aerostar - other groups are dying now i have the charger going on the battery it no longer does that. sunday battery dead again charge again. tried to start again. nothing. so i asked a neighbor to help me and try a jump start. still nothing coming from starter. so what i did was test the start relay and jumped the terminals. nothing again. not even a spark even though i did put a meter at the opposite terminal and grounded it to see if i got voltage when i turned to the key to the start position. i did try jumping the terminals at the starter this morning but got nothing because the batter was dead. i still need to try to jump at the starter again. so i am wondering bad battery or bad starter . 222 343709 47fa2283$0$30706$4c368faf@roadrunner.com hi all! have a problem with my 99 ctd quad cab. had it in storage over the winter and pulled the iod fuse. truck started up fine but now the keyless entry doesnt work. is there a tweek/trick/program reflash or something to get this back on line tia best to all! fred in the om there is a procedure to initialize the fob. you may have to re do it. .
From : roy
first put a battery charger on the battery for over night. get a load tester and check the battery for resilience after the load. or use a multimeter and watch voltage as you remove the charger. if its dropping then you have a problem. if not try to start the van. if the voltage drops below 10.5v and the starter turns suspect battery problems. if the voltage drops out and the starter does not turn replace the starter. this assumes the engine is not seized. i just went out and tried it because the charger has been on the battery for the past 5 hours. i tried both of what you mention. the volage at battery was about 13.5 volts with charger and really did not drop after charger was removed. i put meter on battery and tried to start. i went from 13.xx to about 12.88 at start position then back up to 12.98 after i turned the key to off position but still no starter movement or noise. solenoid is on starter. bad starter now should i still try to jump the starter terminals thanks for the input always load test the battery and check its voltage first when diagnosing an automotive electrical problem. this proves that your power source is good allowing you to find the problem rather than wonder how much voltage you lost in the bad circuit. settles in to await the inevitable horde of electrical engineers and wannabees that will contradict proper 12v neg ground troubleshooting -- max everyone is entitled to his own opinion he is not entitled to his own facts. sen. daniel patrick moynihan of new york friday started my vehicle but had problems. sounded like battery had charge problem but started anyway. saturday tried to start vehicle. turned over but battery died. later tried charging battery in evening with smart charger. before the charger the whole eletrical system would shut down but the check engine light would come on when the door was open. its a 94 ford aerostar - other groups are dying now i have the charger going on the battery it no longer does that. sunday battery dead again charge again. tried to start again. nothing. so i asked a neighbor to help me and try a jump start. still nothing coming from starter. so what i did was test the start relay and jumped the terminals. nothing again. not even a spark even though i did put a meter at the opposite terminal and grounded it to see if i got voltage when i turned to the key to the start position. i did try jumping the terminals at the starter this morning but got nothing because the batter was dead. i still need to try to jump at the starter again. so i am wondering bad battery or bad starter . 222 343702 pnhkj.1962$bq1.1844@trndny09 first put a battery charger on the battery for over night. get a load tester and check the battery for resilience after the load. or use a multimeter and watch voltage as you remove the charger. if its dropping then you have a problem. if not try to start the van. if the voltage drops below 10.5v and the starter turns suspect battery problems. if the voltage drops out and the starter does not turn replace the starter. this assumes the engine is not seized. always load test the battery and check its voltage first when diagnosing an automotive electrical problem. this proves that your power source is good allowing you to find the problem rather than wonder how much voltage you lost in the bad circuit. settles in to await the inevitable horde of electrical engineers and wannabees that will contradict proper 12v neg ground troubleshooting -- max everyone is entitled to his own opinion he is not entitled to his own facts. sen. daniel patrick moynihan of new york friday started my vehicle but had problems. sounded like battery had charge problem but started anyway. saturday tried to start vehicle. turned over but battery died. later tried charging battery in evening with smart charger. before the charger the whole eletrical system would shut down but the check engine light would come on when the door was open. its a 94 ford aerostar - other groups are dying now i have the charger going on the battery it no longer does that. sunday battery dead again charge again. tried to start again. nothing. so i asked a neighbor to help me and try a jump start. still nothing coming from starter. so what i did was test the start relay and jumped the terminals. nothing again. not even a spark even though i did put a meter at the opposite terminal and grounded it to see if i got voltage when i turned to the key to the start position. i did try jumping the terminals at the starter this morning but got nothing because the batter was dead. i still need to try to jump at the starter again. so i am wondering bad battery or bad starter . 222 343701 47f9a490$0$30680$4c368faf@roadrunner.com friday started my vehicle but had problems. sounded like battery had charge problem but started a
From : roy
mac davis macsplinters@davisbaja.com wrote it doesnt matter what its set on bro.. just seems to randomly change.. you can be going down the road with it set all the way to cold and it will blow warm air all of the sudden then go to cool.. almost constantly changing.. warm but not hot maybe the evaporator is freezing up. cuda has a good point. bro is it hot or is it warm roy .
From : mac davis
on sun 6 apr 2008 001320 -0700 pdt bob az rwatson767@aol.com wrote on apr 5 840pm mac davis the heating/ac often decides the temperature settings for us... can go to cool to hot randomly or cold to hot if the ac is on... im thinking some kind of vacuum thing or something but have no real idea what it might be.. mac i had this trouble on a chevy rv chassis. turned out to be a leaky vacuum hose where it went through the firewall. real skinny hose and an even smaller hole in the firewall. reamed out the hole. put in a thick wall gromet and put in a larger hose. everything was then ok. determined the leak location using a vacuum gauge. initially bypassed the suspect hose with a hose patched around the leak site. took vacuum readings at the vacuum reservoir. a plastic ball about 4 in diameter. under the hood. bob az bob... what was the hose connected to mac please remove splinters before emailing . 222 343686 fjnhv3pivi5nmhqafhj41i12rfqb8g27gi@4ax.com on sun 6 apr 2008 001320 -0700 pdt bob az rwatson767@aol.com wrote on apr 5 840pm mac davis the heating/ac often decides the temperature settings for us... can go to cool to hot randomly or cold to hot if the ac is on... im thinking some kind of vacuum thing or something but have no real idea what it might be.. mac i had this trouble on a chevy rv chassis. turned out to be a leaky vacuum hose where it went through the firewall. real skinny hose and an even smaller hole in the firewall. reamed out the hole. put in a thick wall gromet and put in a larger hose. everything was then ok. determined the leak location using a vacuum gauge. initially bypassed the suspect hose with a hose patched around the leak site. took vacuum readings at the vacuum reservoir. a plastic ball about 4 in diameter. under the hood. bob az bob... what was the hose connected to mac please remove splinters before emailing .
From : mac davis
on sun 6 apr 2008 075939 -0400 roy roy@fhome.net wrote asked this 2 or 3 times in the chevy 4x4 group with no replies so thought id try it here 95 small blazer 4 door v-6 auto 4x4... most available factory upgrades.. the heating/ac often decides the temperature settings for us... can go to cool to hot randomly or cold to hot if the ac is on... im thinking some kind of vacuum thing or something but have no real idea what it might be.. gotta get it fixed before summer or its going to lose its place as our daily driver.. suggestions besides getting a dodge we already have 2 does this have automatic climate control or do you have manual settings denny id bet manual. reads like a door is free to flop back and forth. wouldnt think he needs heat there. were it me id be keeping the thing set for cool all the time. roy id almost promise it is manual in that it is not computer controlled but uses vacuum to activate the various functions including the water valve and the blend door. in fact it is probably similar to the one used by chrysler! bg .
From : peterd
on sun 6 apr 2008 075939 -0400 roy roy@fhome.net wrote asked this 2 or 3 times in the chevy 4x4 group with no replies so thought id try it here 95 small blazer 4 door v-6 auto 4x4... most available factory upgrades.. the heating/ac often decides the temperature settings for us... can go to cool to hot randomly or cold to hot if the ac is on... im thinking some kind of vacuum thing or something but have no real idea what it might be.. gotta get it fixed before summer or its going to lose its place as our daily driver.. suggestions besides getting a dodge we already have 2 does this have automatic climate control or do you have manual settings denny id bet manual. reads like a door is free to flop back and forth. wouldnt think he needs heat there. were it me id be keeping the thing set for cool all the time. roy id almost promise it is manual in that it is not computer controlled but uses vacuum to activate the various functions including the water valve and the blend door. in fact it is probably similar to the one used by chrysler! bg .