2003 Quad Cab SLT 4x4 - LSD?

From : john

Q: hello all does anyone have any insight as to what may have caused the odometer to stop working along with the tranny to start slipping i havent had a chance to look under the vehicle yet to see if i can see any fluid leaking. my wife said she was headed out of town when she noticed the speedometer not working and it seemed like the motor was reving a bit. the fluid looks a little brown but doesnt smell real bad. it does have approx. 105000 miles on what may be the original tranny. could this be an electronic issue back in the day i would of guessed a plugged modulator line and/or loose nut on the speedometer cable along with dripping fluid but now im stumped!! any thoughts would be great! thank you very much in advance! cb chances are its the output shaft speed sensor located on the front of the trans. denny .

Replies:

From : denny

i have a 2000 ctd 4x4 2500 and have asked for help on more than once or twice. you guys have been very helpful. i started to notice that when i take off from a complete stop i feel a swift jerk. i feels as if the truck is not completly in gear and when i take off it jerks into gear sometimes it is a soft jerk and sometimes it can be kinda harsh. when the truck is cold say like in the morning it does not do it. only after the truck warms up a bit. i have been told that it can be adjusted but i dont know what it is. also it was told to me that it could be a u-joint but there is no play it the drive shaft. i have seen posts about adjusting the bands in the tranny. could that be the problem and if so how hard and expensive is that any ideas also about what rpm should the truck shift to overdrive i know it shifts around 45 50 mph but what rpm should i be at before i replaced the tps vehicle speed sensor and everything else to fix the tcc shuttlering it would fall into o/d 1800 rpms but now its more like 2150 rpms. is that about right one last question-- what is crd i know ctd but not crd none of this has caused any codes in the computer. thanks to all .

From : denny

another option is to replace the whole rear end with one from the auto wreckers. might be cheaper than having the dealer fix the old one. of all the clunkers i have driven i have never had a rear end fail so i suspect the odds of getting a good one from the wrecker on the first try are pretty high and swapping out the rear end seems to be an easy diy task. -- roger shoaf if knowledge is power and power corrupts what does this say about the congress ok guys... my plan for now is as follows. 0. the noises that i have are of two distinct kinds a whining noise that appears when i ease the gas pedal and grinding noise that i hear at low speeds. 1. i received the adjuster lock tab replacement from the dealer. 2. i will take off the diff cover again and will try to adjust the adjuster lock to reduce backlash to spec using a dial indicator to measure backlash. i hope and would like you to confirm that i can do it using a screwdriver through the access hole. 3. if i cannot get a screwdriver through the hole i could pull the axle and make a tool that goes through the axle hole and turns the adjuster. i would make it out of some materials i have a welder. what i will need to know is dimensions of

From : john

budd cochran wrote another t-boneism. this time the denial part. how far back do you want to go tom you have derided me and my beliefs for a few years now. all my posts back as far as the archives retain still are there and still contain your statements. stop telling others they are wrong for their beliefs. i disagree with your beliefs but i do not tell you that you wrong for your beliefs. huge difference. .

From : john

i will not take part in this place ever again. you are all idiots. snoman from you that is a compliment. thank you denny .