2001 Dodge Dakota - ABS Light
From : steve n
Q: ======= ======== joe din...@six.com wrote .. 03 dakota cc 60k miles and the headliners now starting to come unglued. .. its dropping in the middle on the passenger side and the fronts coming down as well .. .. suggestions on how to fix ========= ========= use stick pins. use cloths pins. cut some apropriate lenths of 1/4 inch household trim molding.....wedge it in the side trim pieces..and use it as runners......paint to match. get a can of cheap sprayglue....poke a bit of a hole in it.....spray it all over....apply pressure. take it out.....finish taken it off the backn.....use a better spray glue all over it.....apply pressure. take it out carry it to the upholstery shop. take the truck to the uphostery shop let them take it out. marshmonster takes a toke......mmmmmm.......good stuff.....cant beat it .
Replies:
From : ed medlin
worse though i think my engine started knocking! noise is in the right side of the engine block as i face the truck a tickticktick noise at about two ticks per second. that noise might be an exhaust leak. id take it back to the shop that did the exhaust work and have it checked for leaks. -- ken .
From : chris thompson
had my truck in for service today as the muffler was rusted through and the rest of the system didnt look too good either. since i had it in to an exhaust expert i had them look for the cause of the p0455 code evaporative emission control system leak detected no purge flow or large leak. ive had codes for this system for years it started with the p0422 code then changed to p0455 6 months or more ago. ive been ignoring it as theres been no driveability issues. turns out twig the mechanic doesnt have a smoke machine but he did a physical inspection of the system and didnt find anything untoward. the only thing that was done to the truck was replacement of the muffler and the shocks but thats not important here - he said the rest of the system is solid despite the rust. odd thing was after resetting the code it didnt come back! in the past when ive rebooted the truck to clear the code it came back very quickly. now im not counting chickens yet but will see what happens tomorrow when i drive it to work. if the code comes back the mechanic does have a line on a smoke machine he can borrow so ill take it back for a smoke test. just wondering if its possible that it was actually the muffler that was causing the codes and if someone could explain why. twig said he thought it was unlikely that the system could sense that far down the system to throw this code because of a muffler problem. he didnt know the proper way of resetting the code on my dak they dont have them here. you should have seen the look of surprise on his face when this lady pulled a truck manual from under the front seat jmc the exhaust system will not cause that code. the check engine light will i fear return. your truck is equipped with an obd ii diagnostic system that performs periodic self tests. after three good self tests the check engine light will turn itself off. thus if the problem was no longer there the light would have self extinguished by now. sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings. mike .
From : chris thompson
had my truck in for service today as the muffler was rusted through and the rest of the system didnt look too good either. since i had it in to an exhaust expert i had them look for the cause of the p0455 code evaporative emission control system leak detected no purge flow or large leak. ive had codes for this system for years it started with the p0422 code then changed to p0455 6 months or more ago. ive been ignoring it as theres been no driveability issues. turns out twig the mechanic doesnt have a smoke machine but he did a physical inspection of the system and didnt find anything untoward. the only thing that was done to the truck was replacement of the muffler and the shocks but thats not important here - he said the rest of the system is solid despite the rust. odd thing was after resetting the code it didnt come back! in the past when ive rebooted the truck to clear the code it came back very quickly. now im not counting chickens yet but will see what happens tomorrow when i drive it to work. if the code comes back the mechanic does have a line on a smoke machine he can borrow so ill take it back for a smoke test. just wondering if its possible that it was actually the muffler that was causing the codes and if someone could explain why. twig said he thought it was unlikely that the system could sense that far down the system to throw this code because of a muffler problem. he didnt know the proper way of resetting the code on my dak they dont have them here. you should have seen the look of surprise on his face when this lady pulled a truck manual from under the front seat jmc .
From : napalmheart
222 337745 46ae3e93$0$31239$4c368faf@roadrunner.com that looks more like a 170 but the intake is interchangeable. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving on jul 30 238 pm mailandcopy.com mailandc...@gmail.com wrote did anyone ever build such a thing apparently so.. i dont remember where i got this picture but i think it was someone on usenet a long time ago talking about his setup... http//a601.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/84/l265160da628bc677c86614d6ac97db08.jpg .
From : chris thompson
on jul 30 1206 pm nza the...@yahoo.com wrote went out this morning and the signals work again.. still getting the turn indicators and the bright light indicator though with the headlights on. ran an errand at lunch time and decided to put the switch back onto the steering column because i was getting tired of using a screwdriver as well as the key to start the van... whaddaya know.. the switch needs to be in contact with the steering column .. all the gremlins went away when i did that.. lol duhhhh .
From : ed medlin
on a 96 4x4 2500 w/cummins. is this an adjustment or a rebuild it will be going to the shop for servicing as soon as i set up a ride there and back and want to prepare myself for the worse. john .
From : marsh monster
ky what causes that is the no restriction. all engines are heat engines and the more heat you can generate from a given fuel charge the greater the air charge expansion and more power but when temperatures exceed 3500 degrees f in the chamber the nitrogen in the air charge will combine with the free oxygen molecules and create no in the exhaust gases. by reducing that peak temperature below 3500 it drastically reduces the no. hence we have egr and lower compression ratios. this introduces thermal inefficiency and we have poor economy. its a trade off. steve funny how back in the 70s i had a 71 ford torino gt351 cleveland factory holley 4 barrel with vacuum secondaries and stock off the lot it got 28 miles to the gallon on the highway and in those days i rarely dropped below 90. my dad told me i was lying until he and i drove it to miami one week. he hasnt stopped talking about that car since. after the octane dropped below 100 it wasnt drivable so i sold it. ky joe cool wrote i have a 97 dodge dakota i installed dual exhaust and was wanting to know if anyone knew of some simple power mods that can be done to give my weak 3.9 a little more power i saw a spacer that goes between the air intake and the intake manifold in summit catalog that claims a power increase has anyone in here ever installed one of those and recieved the claimed power increase would a hotter ignition coil help maybe thanks ! the air spacer doesnt work. ive never seen a single dyno sheet that proves it. theres no fuel in that area so all it does is change the air flow. in the old days - carb days - getting more power from a stock engine was pretty simple. the factory has a very conservative tune so you just made it more aggressive. add timing add fuel. that has to be done by reprogramming the computer. check with jet and hypertech. moving the air in and out better is usually worth something. the factory exhaust is pretty good. after market systems will improve power at the top end. but you dont get a lot of nag for the buck there. a cold air induction is actually worth some power. the factory intake is kinda restrictive. a drop in k&n air filter wont help at all though. another tried and true method is changing the rocker arms to a bigger ratio. increasing the rocker arm ratio is like adding a slightly bigger cam. all magnum engines use the same design rocker arm. the 3.9 5.2 and 5.9 use exactly the same parts. but the v-10 uses a longer ratio. swap in the v-10 parts and gain some noticeable power. i have a set for my 5.9 sitting in the garage waiting for me to install them. dont forget the non-engine improvements - lower gear ratio lower weight better aerodynamics low drag tires. -- .bob 2006 fxdi hot rod 2001 dodge dakota qc 5.9/4x4/3.92 1966 mustang coupe - daily driver 1965 ffr cobra - 427w efi damn fast. .
From : marsh monster
on a 96 4x4 2500 w/cummins. is this an adjustment or a rebuild depends... when does the slip occur when i take off from a stop. not always. some times it actually locks up fine and takes off like a gasser would. .
From : marsh monster
========== ========== on jul 30 804am ed medlin wrote .. if your brakes are working fine and you have good pedal i would look at a wheel speed sensor if i didnt have the error code. getting an error code for the problem is the best bet. ======== ======== what he said......ditto. a code! marsh pours ed the first cup of his fresh batch of shroom tea .
From : marsh monster
on jul 30 637 pm bigironram n...@work.com wrote interesting! right hand drive too...i wonder where it might be from the guy was from australia but i cant be any more specific than that.. speaking of australia.. i would love to get my hands on a 265 hemi six! .