1992 Dakota No Start
From : parklights
Q: i thought that you would - yup you are correct. as always bg how could we suffer through the wrath of tbone it would be difficult ansd some have not. it would be budd revisited.gbfg sorry but even i dont have that ability. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
Replies:
From : mike
max and tbone thanks for the input! tbone i checked the ballast resistor ecu orange box and voltage regulator with a multimeter and they were within the ranges in my haynes manual. i cleaned all of the connections as i inspected and other than some dirt on the outsides they were all clean and non- corroded. the battery connections are clean. everything around the coil was checked for wear/corrosion/improper contacts and cleaned. i dont think its affected by heat as its shut off within less than a minute of starting. the smoke off the neg terminal i think you are right in that its heat from the resistance of cranking. max actually pointed out something i overlooked and that was the pick- up coil. im smacking my forehead for not including that when i checked out the distributor. i also found another guy with exactly the same problem and symptoms with his 360 and the pick-up coil was his problem. heres to hoping its mine as well. ill get back when i check it out. btw- his page which other people may find useful is here http//www.retroaudiolab.com/dodgevan.htm look for the 6/24/06 and 6/25/06 entries. rk .
From : parklights
tom lawrence wrote yeah me neither. heres a capacity curve for a typical automotive compressor. even at peak output its just a little over 2 tons http//www.sanden.com/support/pdf/sd7refrigcapcurve.pdf even with a cars blower running on full the volume of air is miniscule compared to a typical homes a/c unit. the volume in a car is pretty tiny. try running only the front a/c in a large suv such as a suburban or even a mid sized such as a durango. the back passengers will complain loudly. a house is a bit larger than an suv in volume! .
From : tbone
well i have no idea about these things but i have heard that a typical house system is 2 tons versus a car system being 10 - 20 tons. where did you get a number like that i really doubt it could be that high yeah me neither. heres a capacity curve for a typical automotive compressor. even at peak output its just a little over 2 tons http//www.sanden.com/support/pdf/sd7refrigcapcurve.pdf .
From : tbone
one more thing what is the battery voltage when cranking -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving so the dark green/orange @ the coil/injectors is an input to the ecm i was told it was an output. if i put power to that wire at the coil the injectors get power as well as the ecm and right over to the relay box on the left front fender. still no start. we have no injector pulse during crank with that wire manually powered up as well. the ecm originally called for crank sensor and cam sensor. both were changed. thanks again. isnt the fuel pump as well we do have fuel pump. no the fuel pump is powered by the fuel pump relay. both the fuel pump relay and auto shutdown relay are fed by the same fuse and activated by the ecm on a single wire. from what you are saying you have a bad auto shutdown relay or an open wire to the relay. shouldnt the injectors/coil have ignition voltage ignition voltage not sure what you mean by ig
From : parklights
did the vehicle ever run after they were changed -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving so the dark green/orange @ the coil/injectors is an input to the ecm i was told it was an output. if i put power to that wire at the coil the injectors get power as well as the ecm and right over to the relay box on the left front fender. still no start. we have no injector pulse during crank with that wire manually powered up as well. the ecm originally called for crank sensor and cam sensor. both were changed. thanks again. isnt the fuel pump as well we do have fuel pump. no the fuel pump is powered by the fuel pump relay. both the fuel pump relay and auto shutdown relay are fed by the same fuse and activated by the ecm on a single wire. from what you are saying you have a bad auto shutdown relay or an open wire to the relay. shouldnt the injectors/coil have ignition voltage ignition voltage not sure what you mean by ignition voltage but the injectors and coil should both have 12 volts. these are powered by the auto shutdown relay. i really appreciate it. .
From : tbone
check the system according to the fsm. you dont say how you checked the box or resister but simply checking the connections isnt enough. the only way to trouble shoot this system is by using the diagnositcs found in the fsm. what you dont say you covered was the pickup coil possible loss of ground to the orange box or loss of ground to the engine block. the ballast resistor could be a problem if it opened both sides since one starts the truck and one runs it. if you need details on the factory diagnostics email me or post here. -- max everyone is entitled to his own opinion he is not entitled to his own facts. sen. daniel patrick moynihan of new york im stumped here and would appreciate any tips. i have an 86 ramcharger with a 360. it is a carb intake and stock electronic ignition. at any random time the engine will suddenly stop. it is an immediate stop as if the ignition were turned off. most of the time it will start back up. sometimes though it will turn over without firing. if i wait some period of time again length is random it will fire up. i do not believe it is fuel related i have plenty of gas i have replaced the fuel pump and fuel is coming out at the carb. the carb itself was rebuilt last year it is a edelbrock performer if anyone needs to know. i believe it is a short based on this - i noticed smoke coming off the negative post on the battery when i tried to restart it with the hood open the other day and it wouldnt fire up no smoke when it does start - fuel air and timing are all ok but i have not confirmed spark once it stops it is hard to get it not to start - the stop is sudden like the ignition is turned off - there are no trouble signs like knocking stuttering smoke or squeals - gauges all read fine however i can not verify it is a short and i have no idea where else to look. because it acts like the spark is removed when it stops i traced back from the coil through the harness under the hood and cant find any melting chaffing where a wire might ground out or a connector is loose. i unwrapped most of the harness and checked for wires that may have crossed and found none. the voltage regulator orange box and ballast resistor and their connections are all ok. the distributor cap and wires are new with my last tune up about 8 months ago. coil was replaced last year. battery is 3 months old alternator is less than 2 years old. with the engine running i have jiggled and wiggled every wire and harness under my hood and dash and unable to get it to stop. what am i missing has anyone else had a similar problem .
From : parklights
then the distributor is where i would concentrate your efforts. the auto shutdown relay is controlled by the pcm and iirc it activates it when it sees a signal from the position sensor in the distributor. if the pcm is not seeing this signal it will not activate it and even of you bypass this by connecting voltage directly it still will not send any pulse signals because it doesnt know that the engine is cranking. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving no. the first problem was distributor. the distributor got all piled up inside. it was changed. the codes were after this. we are wondering if the distributor problem has caused some other damage. all fuses are good all splices seem intact under the hood. thanks . did the vehicle ever run after they were changed -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving so the dark green/orange @ the coil/injectors is an input to the ecm i was told it was an output. if i put power to that wire at the coil the injectors get power as well as the ecm and right over to the relay box on the left front fender. still no start. we have no injector pulse during crank with that wire manually powered up as well. the ecm originally called for crank sensor and cam sensor. both were changed. thanks again. isnt the fuel pump as well we do have fuel pump. no the fuel pump is powered by the fuel pump relay. both the fuel pump relay and auto shutdown relay are fed by the same fuse and activated by the ecm on a single wire. from what you are saying you have a bad auto shutdown relay or an open wire to the relay. shouldnt the injectors/coil have ignition voltage ignition voltage not sure what you mean by ignition voltage but the injectors and coil should both have 12 volts. these are powered by the auto shutdown relay. i really appreciate it. .
From : parklights
in response to fish s post. i thought everyone should know i have a new 06 1500 and ordered a set of mopar mud gurads. they arrived with several different sets of screws and clamps. before i started drilling holes i was looking for some guidance on positioning and mounting. thanks uh not to understate the obvious but why not read the directions that came with the kit. heck thats what we used to do in the dealership i worked in hell ill even venture a guess....... they probably still do. -- chris .
From : mike
im stumped here and would appreciate any tips. i have an 86 ramcharger with a 360. it is a carb intake and stock electronic ignition. at any random time the engine will suddenly stop. it is an immediate stop as if the ignition were turned off. most of the time it will start back up. sometimes though it will turn over without firing. if i wait some period of time again length is random it will fire up. i do not believe it is fuel related i have plenty of gas i have replaced the fuel pump and fuel is coming out at the carb. the carb itself was rebuilt last year it is a edelbrock performer if anyone needs to know. i believe it is a short based on this - i noticed smoke coming off the negative post on the battery when i tried to restart it with the hood open the other day and it wouldnt fire up no smoke when it does start - fuel air and timing are all ok but i have not confirmed spark once it stops it is hard to get it not to start - the stop is sudden like the ignition is turned off - there are no trouble signs like knocking stuttering smoke or squeals - gauges all read fine however i can not verify it is a short and i have no idea where else to look. because it acts like the spark is removed when it stops i traced back from the coil through the harness under the hood and cant find any melting chaffing where a wire might ground out or a connector is loose. i unwrapped most of the harness and checked for wires that may have crossed and found none. the voltage regulator orange box and ballast resistor and their connections are all ok. the distributor cap and wires are new with my last tune up about 8 months ago. coil was replaced last year. battery is 3 months old alternator is less than 2 years old. with the engine running i have jiggled and wiggled every wire and harness under my hood and dash and unable to get it to stop. what am i missing has anyone else had a similar problem you seem to be under the assumption that it is a short that is causing your problems and that could have you looking in the wrong places. it sounds more like a bad connection that is both creating and affected by heat. first i would clean up that negative battery connection. while it is not likely the cause of your problems it is overheating when you crank for an extended period of time which indicates a bad connection or cable and needs to be fixed before it fails and leaves you stranded somewhere. next i would remove the connections from the coil and give them a good cleaning and make sure that they are tight as a bad connection here dirty or loose can cause this symptom. i would also probably replace the ballast resistor as these can also become temp sensitive and it is an inexpensive part to replace. check the connector going to the pickup coil in the distributor and make sure that it is clean and not resting on a heat source. if it quits again i would feel the connector going to the electronic ignition and if it is hot you probably have a bad connection there. i would also check for voltage on pin 1 of the ignition module connector or at the ballast resistor. no voltage there would indicate either a problem at the bulkhead disconnect or a bad ignition switch. remember that just because some parts are new doesnt mean that they cant be defective. the regulator and alternator have little to do with this unless they are supplying to much voltage and are overheating something and if it were the battery the whole vehicle would be dead. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : mike
nza wrote on aug 28 523 pm nosey kfre...@removethis.hotmail.com wrote ive had good luck with wearever gold semi-metallic pads sold by advance auto stores. there may be better pads out there but these work well and dont wear out abnormally fast. they also have a lifetime warranty if you plan on keeping the vehicle for a while. put your old pads in the box along with the reciept for the new ones. when you need to change pads the next time just return the ones you took off this time. huh the parts guy is going to say hey these arent wearever gold semi-metallic pads! before i say anything i would like to say that i am not trying to flame you at all. however i have to vehemently disagree with this practice. imho this is part of the reason everything costs so much these days and also a reason many mom-and-pop stores go out of bidness and the lifetime warranty may only be good once anyway. thats how it worked with my lifetime warranted headlights back around 1989. at exchange time i needed to surrender the original lifetime certificate that came in the box. .