12v power
From : midlant
Q: is this normal or is my 12v in sad shape it doesnt get down and dirty but does eventually accelerate...reminds me of the old volvos. they dont accelerate. they just eventually gain momentum. youre comparing your 180hp/420ft.lb. engine against his 325hp/570ft.lb. engine. with nearly double the horsepower its no wonder his truck runs away from yours. ask him what kind of mileage numbers hes getting however .
Replies:
From : midlant
i stand corrected. i accidentally left notepad open and saw beryls picture! if that is a correct representation of the original diagram then 300kg/5 lengths=60kg.s ok when i checked out the test it had the triangles so i dont know what it looked like before. looking at what you drew using standard keyboard symbols it seems to me that box b is 3 times the distance from the fulcrum compared to box a. wouldnt that make box b 1/3 the weight 100kg thats assuming that the beam has no mass. im new to groups but know a little about fixed width versus preportional width fonts so i cut and pasted your picture into a fixed width font program and it looked the same to me. i apologize if im not getting the picture. as i see it the left side of box a aligns with the 4th . in other words there seem to be 3 units to the left of box a. at any rate as i see your picture its the same as the test with the triangles. i must admit it was a fun test. if it hadnt been a multiple choice test i might have missed the mutliple pulley question. fortunately while trying to reconcile my answer to one of the choices i found the view larger image option and it made sense i dont want to give away the answer to anyone else who may try the test. beryl wrote frank will wrote wtf are you talking about tom lawrence wrote i got a 94... i wish i knew which ones were wrong. you can review the answers and it shows you which were incorrect. i missed one but ive got an argument. it was the one that asked which would take the least force lifting the weight with no pulleys with one pulley at a 90 angle or with two pulleys one at a 90 pull the other with the rope hitting it on a tangent. i answered the one with no pulleys because of the added drag the pulleys would introduce. technically im right - but they wanted the answer theyre all the same. hmph.... then you missed question 31 too. theres no correct answer. i sent the site a note about the error. they changed the question. used to be two boxes now two triangles and standing on their pointy ends so its clear where the force is applied to the horizontal beam. the correct answer previously with the boxes was 60kg. that answer wasnt among the choices. question 31 square boxes 2 units in width. box a occupies first boxwidth space left of fulcrum. box b occupies third boxwidth space right of fulcrum. | | | | |a | |b | / / if box a weighs 300 kg how much does box b weigh 50 kg 100 kg 150 kg 300 kg .
From : midlant
sounds like a bad ground somewhere; instead of the current going to ground through the normal/correct route its backfeeding into the common power source. i would start by inspecting the ground at the brake lights only because they are probably more susceptable to corrosion. next i would check the blower circuit. if you dont find a bad ground at either location inspect the ground for every component shared by the common power source. ive seen really weird things happen from a bad ground... first thing the other morning the brake warning light red one not the abs one came on and the blower wouldnt blow. when i turn the blower switch off the brake light goes off. also in reverse the reverse lights dont work and the same brake warning light goes on. i notice in the wiring diagram that the blower motor & reverse lights get power from the same point on the ignition switch. but i dont see the connection to the brake light. i assume ive got a bad connection or ground somewhere where to get started .
From : nosey
on thu 25 oct 2007 224720 -0400 kyhighland kyhighlandnospam@roadrunner.com wrote is there a bushing kit available for the 96 dodge ram doors are getting difficult to close as they drop down when they open now. wife is threatening to take it to the dealership if i cant figure it out. lol cant afford those guys. all i seem to be able to find is the complete door hing assembly. how difficult is this fix any other ideas as to how to fix it thanks in advance you guys are great. ky they are available at any parts store. i believe they are just brass bushings. i had to drill a couple of the hinge pins out on my van. they are a bitch to get out. i used a couple of cut off nails very large ones for new pins. they have worked great for years now. beekeep .
From : midlant
midlant wrote tom lawrence total out of pocket - $5000 - $7500 new truck $35000 i cant afford a new truck thats for sure but i was speaking in terms of newer vice new. sell mine for $9k or something then buy a new truck that has that power already. i havent priced a newer truck to find out what a used one is going for so i may be out of the ball park. maybe ill just keep enjoying my truck as it is. thanks again tom. john cheap power for the 12 valve http//www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.phpt=93017 -- ken .
From : midlant
is there a bushing kit available for the 96 dodge ram doors are getting difficult to close as they drop down when they open now. wife is threatening to take it to the dealership if i cant figure it out. lol cant afford those guys. all i seem to be able to find is the complete door hing assembly. how difficult is this fix any other ideas as to how to fix it thanks in advance you guys are great. ky .
From : tom lawrence
is there a huge difference between injectors ive seen some on ebay that seem pretty reasonable. john .
From : midlant
tom lawrence total out of pocket - $5000 - $7500 new truck $35000 i cant afford a new truck thats for sure but i was speaking in terms of newer vice new. sell mine for $9k or something then buy a new truck that has that power already. i havent priced a newer truck to find out what a used one is going for so i may be out of the ball park. maybe ill just keep enjoying my truck as it is. thanks again tom. john .
From : midlant
why do people bomb the 12v and spend the money on upgraded trannys instead of just buying a new truck that alreay is made to withstand 200 more hp what would it take for me to get 350hp other than buying a new truck that comes stock with that power john .
From : rm v2 0
on oct 25 1227 am abby.normal back....@nospam.net wrote how about pulling the connector off #5 and see if there is any change. if there is no change try swapping #5 with another injector and see if the problem follows the #5 injector. physically swapping the injectors is almost next on my list of things to try. i did disconnect #5 injector at idle last night and found very little if any difference. i looked up the normal resistance of the fuel injectors its between 10-12 ohms - i will check that tonight both the suspect one and the others on that side for comparison. i also did listen to each injector with a dowel rod against my ear and while theres a lot of cyclical noises going on it does sound like #5 is quieter than #3 and #1. i remain hopeful though primarily because i perceive the lack of fuel odor to be a very good sign in terms of this being just a dead fuel injector instead of something along the lines of lost compression. i have not run a compression test yet anyways. thanks for the help thus far! .
From : tom lawrence
anyone know of a 5 speed manual transmission with overdrive that can be fit into a 1981 through 1985 dodge w150 4x4 it currently has a granny low 4 speed and is turning 2500 rpms at 45 mph. any info would help. thanks rick .
From : tom lawrence
hey i guy has to have hope! couldnt go higher than 21 points for the skins and that figures special teams to score a td and the defense to do the same. beekeep not in your wildest dreams!! .
From : midlant
i found this odd looking dodge truck for sale. its only $1200. i wonder if the plow is included. http//www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jspcarid=232544386 -- ken i wish i was witty enough to come up with something good but alas im not. john .
From : tom lawrence
put a shift kit in the trans and youll feel the power you have being delivered more effectively. put in a lower stall tc and then the grunt works more effectively. this is far cheaper than going nuts on power accessories and finding that you break the drivetrain more often. ill do that at next rebuild. im approaching 90k on this rebuild. the guy who worked on my truck today mentioned about the stall set up on them. not sure why dodge does it that way. my understanding or take from his conversation was that they will always slip as the sp is higher than what it turns. did i say that right john john .
From : bigironram
greg i was in laplata last week on bid-ness and read about your bee theft in a local paper. sorry about the loss...but while you are grief stricken and delusional ...want to give a prediction on the chase race. ken s hey i guy has to have hope! couldnt go higher than 21 points for the skins and that figures special teams to score a td and the defense to do the same. beekeep .
From : nosey
this just started happening. 1998 dodge dakota v8 5.2l auto 98k miles driving along then let off the gas. rpms drop to near zero then come back to life engine stalls. also random stalling at stop lights/signs or during low speeds with next to no acceleration. no codes showing. also noticed that the right side pcv valve rattles and/or it sounds like a rattling or a little motor winding down towards the rear of the engine. i felt the pcv valve when the engine was turned off and it did rattle. i replaced the pcv valve today and the same thing is happening- rattling when motor is revved up then let go of throttle or shutting the engine off. i cant seem to make it happen either. it does it at random. clues suggestions .
From : max dodge
midlant wrote . short form stretched or wrong throttle cable installed by dealer. john did you get the recall part canz900 i bought cable 4897407aa m02a cable p for $49.88 on may 30 2000. i cant find the recall package. i cant believe that was 7 years ago. the cable must be stretching. i still have the one i bought. its going back on soon. the temp fix is working fine though. the truck is fun driving again. funny when something slowly goes you really dont notice it until its gone. john this one http//dodgeram.info/tsb/recalls/970.htm -- ken .
From : max dodge
do a google search using ackerman effect. the factory uses the same front end parts on trucks with different wheelbases but the steering geometry is correct at only one specific wheelbase. i have driven gm long wheelbase long bed crew cab pickups that scrub so bad on a tight turn that they wont move forward on solid ground until the steering wheel is moved toward center. while thats true the op is looking for a reason that the truck now behaves differently. this also does not explain the pull to one side or another. imo he needs to find a better alignment shop since going in a straight line the truck should not be subject to any geometry influences. -- max everyone is entitled to his own opinion he is not entitled to his own facts. sen. daniel patrick moynihan of new york hello all. i just replaced all the front end parts on my brothers truck used the same control arms but new bushings and new ball joints. it is a 92 dodge d350 2wd truck with a cummins in it. the list of parts replaced is as follows -upper ball joints -lower ball joints -inner tie rod ends -outer tie rod ends -control arm bushings upper and lower -drag link -idler arm -new shocks i tried to put the adjustments back as close to where they were when i took the thing apart. when i first backed the truck out of the garage and turned the wheels all the way the outside edge of the wheel wanted to dig a trench in the yard.. i figured it was just improper alignment. i took it to the alignment shop and supposedly they aligned the truck and had no problems but when i turn the wheel all the way in either direction the wheels literally are scrubbing the tread off the tires super quickly. in fact the steering now binds to the point that the truck will stop when you have the wheel at full lock. driving in a straight line the truck wants to pull to the right and has some severe bumpsteer. it was easier to drive the thing and the tires wore less before i did anything to the truck! i am puzzled as to what is wrong if the alignment is proper.. i figured since the tires are a bit cupped from running about 10000 miles with worn ball joints the outside edges of the tires were just trying to catch up to the inside but that does not really explain the tire scrub. any ideas would really be appreciated. i am wishing i hadnt done anything to the truck now.. do a google search using ackerman effect. the fac
From : midlant
front end parts on trucks with different wheelbases but the steering geometry is correct at only one specific wheelbase. i have driven gm long wheelbase long bed crew cab pickups that scrub so bad on a tight turn that they wont move forward on solid ground until the steering wheel is moved toward center. . 222 340023 froui.1036$hd1.771@trndny01 a tc will always slip a bit thats why the lock up clutch was invented. there are ways of cutting down on the slip thus delivering more power from a standing start. -- max everyone is entitled to his own opinion he is not entitled to his own facts. sen. daniel patrick moynihan of new york put a shift kit in the trans and youll feel the power you have being delivered more effectively. put in a lower stall tc and then the grunt works more effectively. this is far cheaper than going nuts on power accessories and finding that you break the drivetrain more often. ill do that at next rebuild. im approaching 90k on this rebuild. the guy who worked on my truck today mentioned about the stall set up on them. not sure why dodge does it that way. my understanding or take from his conversation was that they will always slip as the sp is higher than what it turns. did i say that right john john .
From : tom lawrence
mine did the same thing. an impact wrench solved the problem. -- ------------------------------------------ laszlo almasi ----cool toys formerly carolina watercraft works ----mack daddy trailers ----ice angels 1996dodge wrote i have a 1996 dodge 4x4 that i replaced the front shocks on monroe sensa tracs . i hear a clunking sound coming from the lower shock bolt on the passenger side. i replaced bolt just like i removed bolt. driver side seems ok. when i go over rough terrain potholes and bumps it sounds really bad. could it be a worn out bolt it looks ok to me. felix the lower shock mount bolts have to be installed tight enough to pinch the mount bracket against the shock bushing spacer. if you still have the old shocks try swapping one of the old lower bushing spacers in place of the new one. sometimes the replacement shocks come with a spacer thats a little bit shorter than the originals. if you dont have the old shocks try tightening the bolt down more. -- ken .
From : midlant
more effectively. this is far cheaper than going nuts on power accessories and finding that you break the drivetrain more often. yeah... pulling transmissions every time they break gets old real quick i dont wanna hear it... you have a lift and a nice garage all to yourself. -- max everyone is entitled to his own opinion he is not entitled to his own facts. sen. daniel patrick moynihan of new york .
From : bigironram
i hit send before i realized the other groups were on here. although telecommuting is a good idea to spread around. better for everyone really especially with $3/gallon of gas hour long traffic jams the pollution levels in most cities and so on. i have a much simpler idea to use less gas - telecommute. if a company lets 10% of it workers telecommute full time they will usually save about double and even triple of what they save by reduced business air travel teleconferencing business meetings and so on. and you add to less pollution. .
From : max dodge
miricle of miricles...ok pretty simple fix really. im rather embarrsed while scratching my head. ill get to this and the fix in a moment... local cummins seemed much more in tune than the dodge guys as they didnt know what was wrong what couuld be wrong and not sure where to start. cummins didnt want $95 to throw it on machine as dodge did. it doesnt need a machine. its needs a real mech who knows the engine as it has to be a simple fix just because of the symptons. im not a mech but do repair things and know the difference between something major and something minor. its just a gut feeling and the symptons. cummins said $90 then 50 to hook it to a computer then time to read it and it came out to $240 just to see if there was anything wrong. no thanks. i heard our area virginia beach finally has a diesel place that is about power not big rig repairs. went there this morning. the man who looked at my truck drives the same thing as well as a newer dually and is in the navy as a nuc mach mate. we speak the same language. i told him what i noteced and thought the overflow valve replaced etc... we went for a ride. it wasnt too bad and he liked it for the most part. i said the throttle plate is slid all teh way forward. he didnt like that as the power wasnt there for that simple mod. i asked him if his foot was on the firewall or in a more normal position like his truck. that got his attention. back tot eh garage. throttle has a lottle of play in it. yep. thats why i said im not getting wot. didnt take long from there. i told him dodge had done a recall to replace the throttle cable but it looked different than the new one i had already replaced on it new style. the one they put on wasnt the old style or the new style. its different. he made a quick spacer to take the slack behind the pedal. lo an d behold the truck runs like it did when i forst bought it. im putting the old cable back in. if youre confused the original cable frayed and dodge had a new one out. dealer said no recall even though nhtsa said there was. i bought the new one repalced it myself and called dodge. a friends brother worked for them in their main hq in their quality dept. that helped. the faxed me the paperwork to give to the dealer for the recall and sent me a check to pay for the cable i bought. dealer put the new cable on and gave me my new cable back. sweet! now the embarassment. i never noticed a loss of power or slack in the throttle from that time. i did notice that over a year to two years time power was slipping away. i thought my truck was dying. nope. overflow valve spring broken and now throttle cable bad. its running really sweet now. ive got power! my foot isnt embedded into the firewall trying to get it to move. to be honest with the slack in the cable i didnt notice my foot sinking into the floor before power came on. seemed pretty normal. now my foot barely moves and im honking 60. pretty easy to pass on the freeway now as well as take off from a dead stop. i did feel blessed and that god was allowing me to play a little so i am going to put in 3k gsk kdp fix 3 pod gauge set timing checked and tweaked and a #8 tst plate installed. hes going to do that in 2 weeks hes only free weekends scott not the business. i thought about a #6 plate but looking at tsts site the #8 seems best for tranny life. a #10 isnt recd for some reason. i know ive read online that taking a 10 and then grinding is fun but tst says 10s are n/a. anyways there it is in long form. short form stretched or wrong throttle cable installed by dealer. john did you get the recall part canz900 .
From : roy
put a shift kit in the trans and youll feel the power you have being delivered more effectively. put in a lower stall tc and then the grunt works more effectively. this is far cheaper than going nuts on power accessories and finding that you break the drivetrain more often. -- max everyone is entitled to his own opinion he is not entitled to his own facts. sen. daniel patrick moynihan of new york im thinking there is a series of adjustments or add-ons that need to be done together to form a cohesive power upgrade without any harmful effects. absolutely correct... adding power requires modification to several different components. for example tweak injection pump and upgrade injectors to get more flow... need a better lift pump to deliver the extra fuel need a better turbo to build more boost to add to that extra fuel need a better intake/intercooler to cool down the boosted intake charge need a bigger/freer-flowing exhaust to take away the extra heat/exhaust gases. powertrains need to be strengthened to deal with the extra torque. it keeps going. .
From : midlant
i have a much simpler idea to use less gas - telecommute. if a company lets 10% of it workers telecommute full time they will usually save about double and even triple of what they save by reduced business air travel teleconferencing business meetings and so on. and you add to less pollution. with the cost of crude oil hitting $90 a barrel this is something you cant pass up! this is not a scam and can save you real money. a quick down and dirty of how this works 1st - by using this product engine efficiency is gained. you will see 7% to 14% increases in your gas milage. http//www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/ 2nd - no longer use the high grade of gasoline. this in itself saves quite a bit of money since 87 octane is alot cheaper than 92. once your engine is conditioned to the formula which only takes a little while you can start using the cheap gas. http//www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/ 3rd - even if you do not buy my product i have prepared a special tips and secrets to saving on mpg without my product! i believe in this product so much that if you use it and follow the 23 tips i outline below you will save a fortune over the coming year! even if you do not use the product remember that following these 23 simple tips makes for a huge money saver as well! i am looking out for the rest of us because i too am tired of paying almost 4 dollars a gallon! it is ridiculous and until we can finally get off of gasoline there looks to be no end in site to the rising of oil prices! 4th - earn extra income by becoming a reseller of this fantastic product! sign up on my webpage to become a reseller. http//www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/ http//www.saveongasmormpg.myffi.biz/ as promised even if you dont buy my product at least follow these helpful tips and secrets. it will help us all save in the long run! 1. anticipate use your brakes less and dont accelerate quickly. look far down the road ahead even if far means half a city block. get into position for turn-lanes smoothly and early so that you dont have to accelerate to get in front of traffic. remember that the guy who leaves the stoplight the quickest also pays more at the pump. anticipate stops or slow-downs ahead and take your foot off the gas try to coast much more than you brake. see a long train at the rr crossing ahead get your foot off the gas immediately. you can idle forward in drive for a long way without braking for 30% less fuel than sitting in drive and nearly the same fuel use as sitting in park. remember any additional distance you coast will save fuel and extend your brake-pad life. 2. minimize idling and idle smart engines only need 10 to 30 seconds for warm-up and idling your engine for more than a minute typically costs more fuel than re-starting it. so avoid the drive-thru lines at the bank and the fast-food shop instead of sitting in line park and go inside. but when you must idle with an automatic transmission put the transmission in neutral or park while youre waiting this will cut your fuel usage at idle by 15-35% depending on the vehicle. if you have a manual transmission dont use the clutch to keep from rolling back - use the brake. this will save fuel and extend your clutch life. 3. use cruise control. its proven to save fuel. but heres a secret... its not just for cruising. using the resume button on your cruise control can be a handy compromise to provide reasonable acceleration times that dont irritate drivers behind you without wasting excessive fuel. 4. overdrive and gear selection. if you have an automatic with overdrive use the overdrive. if you have a manual transmission shift early to keep engine rpms lower and be sure to use the highest gear for highway cruising. 5. slow down. as you increase speed above 60 mph wind resistance starts increasing dramatically as a percentage of total fuel consumption. estimates are that every mile over 60 mph costs you 1% in fuel economy. in other words when you speed youre paying more at the gas pump. 6. watch your tire choice. replacing your tires/wheels with wider and/or taller ones may look awesome but keep in mind that your choice could have a 1 to 3% penalty in fuel economy... or even more in extreme cases like monster truck tires/wheels. 7. carefully consider your route and the time of day traffic flow is a huge factor. for example see the picture to the right. those vehicle-following-distances are typical of traffic in many large cities. if this highway traffic is stop-and-go fuel economy will be bad. on the other extreme if the traffic is moving smoothly and fast at 60 - 80 mph then your fuel economy is going to be superb those rushing vehicles create a jet-stream of air which dramatically reduces your wind-drag losses - 10 to 30% improvements are possible. for maximum fuel economy follow a larger vehicle and
From : midlant
this would be more exact if i knew specifically which trans and engine you have and what you are swapping in but generally youll need to know the following the trans will physically fit in the truck. however youll want to check pilot bushing sizes and clutch spline count for the input shaft. the bellhousing from a later model assuming you are using nv3500 nv4500 dodge five speed should bolt right up. be sure that the clutch disc and pressure plate is able to fit the flywheel you have. if not a flywheel from a late model truck should bolt up but youll want to check this carefully. then youll need to figure out if the new trans will allow you to use the clutch linkage in the truck or if it will need hydraulic lines set up. beyond that the driveshaft would be a concern. youll want to check the type of ouput whether its spline or a flange. if its a splined yoke youll want to be sure its the same as what you have. if not youll need the yoke from the new trans and a ujoint that fits the present driveshaft and the new yoke. then youll need to check driveshaft length. this swap will take a bit of time and engineering so count on the truck being down for a few days unless you get all the specifics ahead of time and have the means to assemble all the parts. if you can do that itll take about a day maybe two. -- max everyone is entitled to his own opinion he is not entitled to his own facts. sen. daniel patrick moynihan of new york anyone know of a 5 speed manual transmission with overdrive that can be fit into a 1981 through 1985 dodge w150 4x4 it currently has a granny low 4 speed and is turning 2500 rpms at 45 mph. any info would help. thanks rick .