07 Dakota - Rust on components???
From : lars thorwald
Q: ok now i am getting in to the little stuff that drives me nuts. the ram is awesome and i will never go back to gas again. i am a diesel head forever. but i cant shut off the stupid horn chirp when i am locking the doors. i have asked the dealer and all he said was to rtfm. brilliant................ it says to stand outside the vehicle hold the lock button for 4 seconds but less then 10 then press the panic button and then to let go of both at the same time. the wife and i have both tried it at least a dozen times. we have reread the manual probably that many times as well. no luck. i am thinking the manual is wrong but i have no idea what key combination will shut off the chirp. i did it in my 92 dakota my 02 ram and my 04 ram with no problems. any ideas wayne .
Replies:
From : nosey
toyoto made a good showing in the coke 600. they had 2 top tens one of which was a top 5! personally i am impressed with thier first year progress. what do you think beekeep ps jr is thinking of joining walthrup racing! he says he likes the idea of having sundays off! .
From : roy
hes up to the same tricks in rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys. thread re ot electronics electrical problem = snoman the lying stalker! gee ... with beryl being such a whiz with electronics i wonder why he isnt defending him lahoooo zaherrrrr. - craig c. hes like a friggin plague. the cc hes a poser .
From : snoman
down. so pressure was good to the isolator. turns out the gauge side of the isolator wasnt nearly as full as i thought it was thanks genos for the advice. now i have 17# at key on. thats why i gave up on mechanical fp gauges long ago.... been perfectly happy with my autometer 30psi electric fuel gauge. despite the warnings i havent beaten my sending unit to death yet in almost three years. thats probably what ill install in my 13 when the time comes that is if the tree huggers havnt outlawed diesel by then. fmb north mexico .
From : denny
i 95 north is being shut down saturday night through sunday morning to replace faulty expantion joints installed in the over passes at the mixing bowl intersection for i-495 i-395 $ i-95. i would avoid it at all costs! beekeep .
From : e frank ball iii
down. so pressure was good to the isolator. turns out the gauge side of the isolator wasnt nearly as full as i thought it was thanks genos for the advice. now i have 17# at key on. thats why i gave up on mechanical fp gauges long ago.... been perfectly happy with my autometer 30psi electric fuel gauge. despite the warnings i havent beaten my sending unit to death yet in almost three years. .
From : steve lusardi
what about turning the feature back on is there any way to interface with the existing ecm to turn the feature back on i dont know... youd have to ask a friendly dc tech with a drb3. remember dodge changed the programming in the cummins ecm so cummins cant interface with it anymore... only dodge can talk to the ecm anymore. i would think that if there were a way companies like pacbrake wouldnt be coming out with fix-it kits. would you make this same recommendation if you werent running power adders or is this recommendation based on running additional power over stock either way. as i said the stock torque converter is the last of the known weak links... it will be first thing to go from the heavy use of pulling that trailer. the new valve body gives you firmer shifts a little more line pressure and the ability to actuate shifts with the tc locked up where lockup is maintained through the electronic controller - the same box that engages the exhaust brake*. * this is all assuming ats parts and upgrades... cant speak to other transmission shops products .
From : snoman
on thu 31 may 2007 180718 -0400 roy roy@home.net wrote hes like a friggin plague. the cc hes a poser no roy i am likely a nightmare for you because i see right through you tripe that you post at times and it bugs you to no end. no you are a nightmare to those who may take your wrong advice and suggestions. it bugs me that you have not found the ability to shut the fuck up when you have absolutely no clue as to to the subject. .
From : jmc
crag hes up to the same tricks in rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys. thread re ot electronics electrical problem = snoman the lying stalker! gee ... with beryl being such a whiz with electronics i wonder why he isnt defending him lahoooo zaherrrrr. - craig c. the pool light thread i guess. putting the stalker argument aside its about some amateurs intent on re-engineering a ul-approved 24v lighting system into a 120v system and assuming that its still code compliant since afterall there are also 120v pool lights available. dopes. -- this explains it all!!! he was home schooled and his mommy made his ges diploma for him out of needle point to go with his pin head and needle dick. -- punkin .
From : lars thorwald
ill be taking regular 5 mile trips to work and back everyday. the manual has 2 sets of maintenance guides depending on the mileage you put on it on daily basis. one glaring difference is changing the lube in the rear axle much more often for low mileage daily driving. she says shes never had it changed. whats up with that regarding the axle lube stuff moisture in the air condenses as the air cools and will eventually lead to some water contamination in the rear end lube. low mileage daily driving prevents the lube from reaching a temperature that allows the trapped water to cook off therefore more frequent lube changes are recommended. makes good sense to me. thanks. dave .
From : bigironram
yall are right .... its a feature. probably tells me that in the owners manual someplace. thanks for the info and not just telling me to rtfm. ; no problem... youre not the first to suffer from cellophanitis the morbid fear of removing the wrapping from the owners manual ^ you mean that wrapper actually comes off next thing you will be saying is that the fsm is actually supposed to be removed from its shipping box. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving .
From : lars thorwald
i have had three dodge trucks so far a 92 dakota a 02 ram and a 04 ram none with diesel. loved them all but now we went a bought a bigger trailer so my wife and i just bought a new 07 ram slt quad cab 2500 with the 5.9 cummins diesel tonight and will pick it up on tuesday. now before i get flamed silly i have read searched and hunted a pile of groups goolge etc and cannot find consistant answers to the simplist questions for a new diesel owner. no manual yet either. so this is why i am asking the group. 1 what is a break in period before i can tow the trailer. it is a 7200 lb travel trailer.i was told right away by the dealer and after 5000 kilometers by my neighbour who has an 05 mega cab 3500. 2 when should i change the original oil 3 i have been told three answers to this question how many miles kilometers between regular oil changes should i expect one guy said 12000 kilomters 7000 miles another said 10000 kilomters 6000 miles and another said every 5000 kilomters.3000 miles. i am used to changing the 04 hemi every 5000 kilometers. 4 can you really run any of the diesel fuels in the 07 5.9 cummins or must i only use the ultra low sulphur fuel. any other special things to watch out for i promise i will read the manual when i get it but i just want some real world opinions. i know these sound pretty simple to most of you but .................... thanks wayne update thanks everyone. i have read the manual front to back and took in to account what everyone said. we drove it 800km before we dropped the tt on it. we then stuck to 80 kph or 50 mph the whole way to banff and back this weekend. what a blast ! this is the first time in 30 years of driving that road that i never noticed the hills or steep grades. this thing just ran up the grades and never even changed gears. we also used 1/2 the fuel of the 04 hemi. dealer said that 7500 to 8000 km will be when to change the first oil. turns out we only have ulsd in the calgary area. selling for .80 / litre at the local flying j. that is somewhwere around 3.03 / gallon us. unleaded is going for 4.58 / gallon. wayne what a beautiful area to break in the ctd. we were there 2 years ago with ours. yeah driving it for the first trip is a blast. it will continue. congrats on your successful trip. fmb north mexico .
From : roy
yall are right .... its a feature. probably tells me that in the owners manual someplace. thanks for the info and not just telling me to rtfm. ; no problem... youre not the first to suffer from cellophanitis the morbid fear of removing the wrapping from the owners manual ^ .
From : steve lusardi
all yes it is rust and dodge is not the only manufacturer that does not completely protect the underside components. i bought a new corvette that was the same way. odd my z06 was mostly alloy and aluminum underneath. .
From : lars thorwald
craig zip me an email so i can send you those pics. kf4drr@windstream.net -- chris 05 ctd 06 liberty crd .
From : snoman
thanks for posting that pic. its exactly the same thing i have going on. - but maybe some of you dodge fans can aleviate some of my fears....am i right to be concerned or is this just a dodge thing its normal. heres a picture from my truck maybe 6 months old http//home.earthlink.net/tlawren349/at/hangers.jpg .
From : tom lawrence
on may 30 225=ef=bf=bdam jmc nogroupss...@nojodibody.homeus wrote suddenly without warning fred mayfield exclaimed 30-may-07 1238 pm the lights are on theyll stay on when you turn them off. =a0turn the is this whats happening or are the lights staying on when you turn them off before turning the ignition off. jmc my 2001 ram pu operates normally but my 2001 chrysler lhs does the delayed thing unless i turn off the lights before the ignition. bob az .