03 Dodge Ram 1500 QC 4.7L Thoughts
From : steve
Q: can i put that in my dodge neon -d @fe05.atl2.webusenet.com nhra makes 5000 or so hp with em try 8000 hp on nitromethane in top fuel. .
Replies:
From : roy
even with a holeshot if it isnt slipping why change it hell with the z06 stock clutch and all that rubber out back it trys to get sideways on 2-3 shift. i guess i should change it to a centerforce. admittedly centerforce makes a good product but i dont get the point of the change out. roy my thoughts would be that if it didnt have so much weight on the drivers seat maybe it wouldnt get sideways!! vbg denny .
From : ram3
@twister.socal.rr.com can i put that in my dodge neon -d in the back seat - its too big to fit into the trunk. d .
From : mike simmons
i never heard of a tire manufacture having road hazard coverage on any tire warranty. where did you ever get that idea tire dealers sell road hazard as an extra amount and that is an insurance policy for the tires from the tire dealer. was the spare a full sized michelin same kind and type of tire why not simply buy the cheapest tire in that size and have it mounted on the spare rim and keep the michelin on the truck good point. stealing the spare tire off a dodge truck is about as hard as if you had left the tire in the bed. a cheap used spare with a bit of tread no patches and reliably holds air is all you really need and youre significantly less likely to have your spare ganked. its not like youre gonna really want to roll on that ugly-ass rim for any longer than possible anyways. js .
From : denny
why *wouldnt* you want to use the ac in your car what does sweating your balls off have to do with how tough you are in the long run youd do yourself a huge favor to keep the ac connected and enable it occasionally at least. the lubricants need regularly flow in an r134a-based system to ensure full system life the seals dry up and the freon leaks out. js at least i do not use it when i drive... lawrence wrote the truly tough people do not need a/c... yet you have a/c in your house... curious .
From : scanman
i have a 1999 1500 dodge ram 4x4. need to change tires soon 48k miles. any suggestion for the best place to change tires samsclub etc and good tires sams club is ok. tires depends on your application. i like to run mud terrains on my 4x4s but most people want a more street oriented tire. a good compromise is the bfg all terrain. if you want to oversize a bit i think 285x75x16s will fit on your truck but verify this before buying them. .
From : steve
does anybody know if the dealer can change the computer to match the tires if i go a size bigger and do you think this will affect my pulling power its a 01 2500 quad cab 2wd diesel with 354 rear end. thanks. .
From : hodad
of course they do; they all live in china. i love those cheep cheesy chinese made amerikan flags.... john lasy year my son made it to a state championship wrestling competition here in pa. it was held in the johnstown war memorial. the war memorial stadium was built as a shrine to honor those veterans that served in wwii and korea and old war posters photos and banners abound in the place. as we were going to our seats a stadium employee was handing out little plastic american flags so that everyone could wave them during the national anthem. as i was sitting there i was examining the flag and sure enough it said made in china right on the border! considering where we were and why the grand old place was built i just couldnt believe they would hand out chinese flags. i threw mine in the trash on the way out. randy jesus i was just being sarcastic! you mean its true then again nothing is made here anymore nothing! its sickening! and do you know why a whole lot less is made in america nowadays yea greed and on both sides of the fence. first you have the american business men that believe that high profits are the end to all things. it doesnt matter that the company is already making good money if more can be made by any means it is done and the easier the better. then on the other side you have the typical american citizen who has this compulsive need to live beyond their means and always have bigger and better whether they need it or not. hell the growing number of unneeded suvs and the fact that nobody builds smaller houses anymore attest to that. they also usually buy the lowest cost item and have no regard as to where it was made. now when you put these two things together you get what we have now. people buying things totally on the price and companies that in order to maintain profits stay competitive and satisfy their stockholders are moving production and outsourcing labor to foreign countries easiest way to cut costs and that is not a good thing. what both sides fail to see is that they are killing themselves and each other. the customers are hurting the american companies by buying foreign made stuff for nothing more than a dollar or two less than the american one and by doing so reducing the need for american workers. the companies by outsourcing everything to save money the easy way are eliminating needed jobs and are in effect eliminating their own customer base. the economic boom of a few years ago shows that american companies employingamerican workers increase the customer base and americans buying american products when they can creates more good paying jobs but then again people may have to give up a few things here and there and we cant have that now can we. i would have put in terms of competitive forces but greed. and i would have added a hug section on the governments and unions role in driving up the costs of making products in america creating the almost insurmountable difference in the cost of home vs. foreign manufacture. but otherwise that was pretty much were i was headed. no speeches for me today i guess competitive forces are at best nothing more than another motivational force. as for the governments and union roles in driving up the costs lets also remember that they are a symptom of a higher problem not the direct cause. i would agree with you. i am curious what *you* think this higher problem is. .
From : roy
i have a 1997 dakota 5.2 auto. i want a little more performance out of the truck. what can i do that will resonably increase excitement. .
From : denny
the stock clutch in most vehicles robs you of 20% or your horsepower and torque getting the power from the crank to the rear diff im sorry but youre horribly confused. unless a clutch is slipping an abnormal condition unless your foot is on the clutch pedal there is zero drivetrain loss. if a clutch is slipping it is either worn mis-adjusted in the case of older mechanical clutch linkages or the engine is simply overpowering the clutch. this slipping will not continue long before the clutch is completely shot and the vehicle wont move at all anymore. there is no way a stock 4.7l engine is too much for a stock nv3500 clutch. cant happen - no how no way barring a manufacturing defect mind you. i absolutely guarantee you your dyno numbers before and after your centerforce upgrade will be identical within statistical margins of course. your ets may be a little quicker as the new clutch may hook up quicker than the stock clutch and it will certainly take more abuse over the long term but the overall amount of power at the rear wheels will not change at all. .
From : denny
if you are cooking the coil then you are drawing way to much power through the ignition circuit. first of all forget about the voltage on the coil when the engine is running. what you are seeing is an average voltage due to the coil power being switched on and off so many times a second. the only thing that would give you an accurate voltage on it while running would be a scope. like i said before the first thing that you need to do is confirm the output of the alternator when the engine is running. if it is over 14v that is too much and overcharging the battery has nothing to do with it. next is the ballast resistor. its purpose is to limit the current going through the coil not drop the voltage. if it is shorted bypassed or the voltage is too high it will not be able to do its job properly and the coil will overheat. also make sure that it is the correct one for the ignition that you are using. it should have voltage on it when the vehicle is running and if you unplug it the engine should stall. if not then it has either been bypassed or the ignition switch may be defective. if all is ok on the input side check out the output side. make sure that the plugs are gapped correctly and that you are using the correct ignition wires. i know that sounds strange but an ignition coil is no different then any other transformer and the larger the load the more current it will draw. -- if at first you dont succeed youre not cut out for skydiving thanks for all the help guys! i believe i may have figured it out. i have relocated the coil to the outside of the engine compartment so i could monitor the true heat of the coil. the engine quit running after 30 minutes. i accidentally touched the coil with my arm and got burned from it. i got another coilcold and it restarted immediately. it ran for an hour on this coil and then quit runnung again. this coil also was very hot. i got another coilcold and it restarted again and ran for about an hour before quitting again. at that point i was out of cooled off coils. finally the problem is obvious but why are the coils getting so hot i had replaced the ballist resistor already and the coil is getting only 8 volts when the engine is running. by the way i am going to take my kids camping on wednesday for 5 days. if i have to i will put the extra coils in the refrigerator or freezer. thanks again for all the help. bruce ft myers fla .
From : mike simmons
steve not arguing just discussing....ok g if i am reading your post right i take it you are racing the truck. i cant see any other circumstance where that much clutch would be of a concern other than reving it up and dumping the pedal. you stated the stock clutch costs you 20% of hp and torque. that would only happen if the clutch was slipping. i havent seen a clutch slip yet on a stock truck even driving hard. in your 86 vette you said you had a hard time keeping the tires hooked up that would not happen under normal street driving. in my younger days i played with a bb camaro. i kept eating clutches big time till i went to a button clutch. that sucker did not slip a bit but it sure made it a pain in the ass to drive on the street. it was either in or out no in-between. and yes i had a hard time hooking up the tires too i have the tickets to prove it too. g denny denny because the centerforce unit provides 90% more holding power than the stock clutch. the stock clutch in most vehicles robs you of 20% or your horsepower and torque getting the power from the crank to the rear diff an auto robs you of even more most of the time. the centerforce dual friction set typically gives you back 8-12% of that loss. in short your engine isnt making more power put you are able to put more of it to the wheels. for the $400 it typically costs you provided you are capable of doing the install yourself the performance gain is remarkable. no exhaust system header or intake will give you the noticeable improvement that the centerforce dual friction clutch set will. and i am not preaching manuafacturer propaganda either i installed one of these clutch sets in my 1986 corvette and my best friends 1999 trans am. the improvements were awesome. the first time i drove the corvette after installing the new clutch i had a hard time keeping the tires hooked up. i had to buy stickier rubber to keep from spinning the wheels all the time. -- steve steve why are you going with the centerforce clutch if the factory disc is not slipping denny since a group is by nature an open forum i just wanted to voice my opinion on the topic of the 4.7l sohc engine. i have seen a lot of people bash that engine in the ram 1500 quad cab. one poster even suggesting that it is useless at pulling a load in excess of 2000 pounds. i have to wonder if this is opinion or that said posters have actually driven a ram 1500 qc with the 4.7. either that or the automatic transmission dodge is putting in these trucks is a total piece of shit. for what it is worth i have a 2003 dodge ram 1500 quad cab slt 4x4 with the 4.7l sohc engine the 5-speed manual transmission and 3.92 gears in the rearend with the limited slip option. i have had it for 1 month now and have about 4200 miles on the odometer. over the last month i have averaged 15mpg in daily driving it has actually been improving as the miles passed the 2000 mark and the one trip i took to virginia earned me an 18.7mpg. i have a 3200 pound 20 boat and trailer combination that i tow with it regularly and have no trouble maintaining 70mph or better even on a grade. yes i do have to shift a lot to keep the engine in the meat of its powerband and 5th gear is usually out of the question when towing unless the road is completely flat or downhill. as yet i have only two complaints about the truck 1 i find the way the rear end hops at the slightest bumps unnerving dont give me that its a truck crap either my 2000 chevrolet silverado extended cab didnt do this why should the dodge 2 the goodyear all-season tires that came on it suck they will be replaced shortly. so to all considering a truck like this if you know how to drive a stick get one. i have had no power problems with this motor and tranny combination. in fact it is quite quick provided you are not squeemish about revving it to 5500 rpm before shifting. this motor is quite flat below 2000 rpm. in fact it doesnt really wake up until 3000. just my 2 cents but i am quite happy with 4.7l and the 5-speed manual. it is a good combination. i am considering the jba shorty headers volant cold-air induction and a borla exhaust system. if you believe the power gain claims on www.truckperformance.com for these components my truck should be around 300hp with these additions. well see. also centerforce is working on a replacement clutch for this. a centerforce clutch doesnt make anymore horsepower but allows you to put more of it to the rear wheels. ill let you all know how it works out. -- steve - fuquay varina north carolina .
From : denny
even with a holeshot if it isnt slipping why change it hell with the z06 stock clutch and all that rubber out back it trys to get sideways on 2-3 shift. i guess i should change it to a centerforce. admittedly centerforce makes a good product but i dont get the point of the change out. roy my thoughts would be that if it didnt have so much weight on the drivers seat maybe it wouldnt get sideways!! vbg denny smart ass!! im sure your fat ass in the passenger seat will more that balance the car. hell ill have to be adding weight.bfg your email seems to be a lot screwed up. give me a call when ya get close the day before whatever. roy .
From : tom lawrence
steve denny is 100% correct! unless you are trying to improve a holeshot the centerforce clutch will not improve your performance one iota. if the stock clutch is not slipping then you have a 100 % mechanical connection and thus no hp loss. for everyday driving imho you will derive no benefit save a lighter wallet as alluded to in my previous post. if on the other hand its a better holeshot you want go for it... after all it is your bux! mike even with a holeshot if it isnt slipping why change it hell with the z06 stock clutch and all that rubber out back it trys to get sideways on 2-3 shift. i guess i should change it to a centerforce. admittedly centerforce makes a good product but i dont get the point of the change out. roy steve not arguing just discussing....ok g if i am reading your post right i take it you are racing the truck. i cant see any other circumstance where that much clutch would be of a concern other than reving it up and dumping the pedal. you stated the stock clutch costs you 20% of hp and torque. that would only happen if the clutch was slipping. i havent seen a clutch slip yet on a stock truck even driving hard. in your 86 vette you said you had a hard time keeping the tires hooked up that would not happen under normal street driving. in my younger days i played with a bb camaro. i kept eating clutches big time till i went to a button clutch. that sucker did not slip a bit but it sure made it a pain in the ass to drive on the street. it was either in or out no in-between. and yes i had a hard time hooking up the tires too i have the tickets to prove it too. g denny denny because the centerforce unit provides 90% more holding power than the stock clutch. the stock clutch in most vehicles robs you of 20% or your horsepower and torque getting the power from the crank to the rear diff an auto robs you of even more most of the time. the centerforce dual friction set typically gives you back 8-12% of that loss. in short your engine isnt making more power put you are able to put more of it to the wheels. for the $400 it typically costs you provided you are capable of doing the install yourself the performance gain is remarkable. no exhaust system header or intake will give you the noticeable improvement that the centerforce dual friction clutch set will. and i am not preaching manuafacturer propaganda either i installed one of these clutch sets in my 1986 corvette and my best friends 1999 trans am. the improvements were awesome. the first time i drove the corvette after installing the new clutch i had a hard time keeping the tires hooked up. i had to buy stickier rubber to keep from spinning the wheels all the time. -- steve steve why are you going with the centerforce clutch if the factory disc is not slipping denny since a group is by nature an open forum i just wanted to voice my opinion on the topic of the 4.7l sohc engine. i have seen a lot of people bash that engine in the ram 1500 quad cab. one poster even suggesting that it is useless at pulling a load in excess of 2000 pounds. i have to wonder if this is opinion or that said posters have actually driven a ram 1500 qc with the 4.7. either that or the automatic transmission dodge is putting in these trucks is a total piece of shit. for what it is worth i have a 2003 dodge ram 1500 quad cab slt 4x4 with the 4.7l sohc engine the 5-speed manual transmission and 3.92 gears in the rearend with the limited slip option. i have had it for 1 month now and have about 4200 miles on the odometer. over the last month i have averaged 15mpg in daily driving it has actually been improving as the miles passed the 2000 mark and the one trip i took to virginia earned me an 18.7mpg. i have a 3200 pound 20 boat and trailer combination that i tow with it regularly and have no trouble maintaining 70mph or better even on a grade. yes i do have to shift a lot to keep the engine in the meat of its powerband and 5th gear is usually out of the question when towing unless the road is completely flat or downhill. as yet i have only two complaints about the truck 1 i find the way the rear end hops at the slightest bumps unnerving dont give me that its a truck crap either my 2000 chevrolet silverado extended cab didnt do this why should the dodge 2 the goodyear all-season tires that came on it suck they will be replaced shortly. so to all considering a truck like this if you know how to drive a stick get one. i have had no power problems with this motor and tranny combination. in fact it is quite quick provided you are not squeemish about revving it to 5500 rpm before shifting. this motor is quite flat below 2000 rpm. in fact it doesnt really wake up until 3000. just my 2 cents but i am quite happy with 4.7l and the 5-speed manual. it is a good combination.
From : aj
sheesh.... leave here for a week a month...and see what happens.. ok...he will have liquid in the system but liquid is not needed to show enough pressure to allow the systems lp switch to be closed at startup... its either due to an airflow issue over the evap coil a metering device issue or undercharge... thats an under-charge too. if you have any amount of liquid refrigerant in the system it will show normal static pressures but when you start the compressor and the system is short of charge you will see the symptoms you mentioned among others. i am having the exact same problem with my 98 ram. i used the gauges and it shows that there is pressure. when the ac kicks on the gauge drops way down and then the clutch kicks off and the pressure goes back up. i cant figure out the problem. any help oh please it is so hot in socal. patrick .
From : mac davis
do i do this with the engine running or just the ignition on i think all the lights are on with just the ignition on. they go out after then engine is running a few seconds. i see the connector mounted just under the steering column. i have 4w abs with front wheel sensors and one on the rear differential. i do have oscilloscopes and so forth but no special purpose auto diagnostic tools. thanks david b tom lawrence wrote thats some good info. ive checked all the brake clutch and ebrake switches and all seem good. how do i test the abs sensors i think theres one on each wheel hub or something like that. it depends on whether you have four-wheel abs or rear-wheel anti-lock. do you have a big pump with brake lines running to it sitting on top of the drivers inner fender wheel or do you just have the master cylinder and a little thin black box mounted vertically next to it if you have the pump you have four wheel abs and have three speed sensors - one on each front hub and one in the rear axle on top of the differential. testing these is difficult for the home mechanic - you need an ocilloscope or a factory diagnostic computer. if it turns out you have rear-wheel antilock only things get easier. first you only have one sensor - in the rear differential. secondly being a 9
From : roy
16-pin connector at the bottom of the dash underneath the steering wheel. take a piece of wire and ground pin #13 black wire to the lower dash frame. the abs light should flash a code at you - first one long flash then several short flashes. count the flashes and post back what you get do it a few times and make sure you count the same number each time. im actually betting you get 11 flashes - indicating the brake switch is always on. the abs light will come on when you hit 40mph. this would also explain why your cruise fails to engage. . 222 263419 nbr5hvkkscjh3mv9kfnleqd9ffbqnhsdq9@4ax.com on mon 14 jul 2003 010841 gmt denny wddodge@woh.rr.com wrote even with a holeshot if it isnt slipping why change it hell with the z06 stock clutch and all that rubber out back it trys to get sideways on 2-3 shift. i guess i should change it to a centerforce. admittedly centerforce makes a good product but i dont get the point of the change out. roy my thoughts would be that if it didnt have so much weight on the drivers seat maybe it wouldnt get sideways!! vbg denny i think the prob might be too much weight on the long skinny pedal.... .
From : nick leinonen
nate wrote im having a little trouble of understanding the difference in polygamy and bigamy. bigamy is marrying another while still married to someone else bi =3d two. polygamy poly =3d many is generally refered in regards to the mormon practice of taking multiple wives. close but the mormons want more than 2 wives god help them lol! athough it is not supported by the lds church thousands still practice it. thousands in the actual lds church or in the multiple churches that formed after breaking away from the mormon church the rlds members are the ones still practicing polygamy not the lds. there was an author on one of the morning shows last week that wrote a book about this. i forget his name or the name of the book. it sounded like interesting reading tho. so long.... =9b=9b=9b=9b=9b=9b=a0eldon ; http//community.webtv.net/ejutah/acpictures http//community.webtv.net/sodakid2/allallischalmers .